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TOUR THROUGH SCOTLAND.

CHAPTER I.

-Dr.

Travelling infatuation-anecdote of a Scotchman in Italy-a consoling reflection Cambridge-its beautiful college walks-the exquisite architecture of king's college chapel-Pembroke college-anecdote of Mr. Pitt-Mr. Fox-a window full of abfurdities-facetious versesClarke's antiques-Stamford-singular mode of strengthening a weak building remarks upon York minster-hints to divines-the castle at York-Durham-remarks upon the cathedral and the prison:

HOW common in practice, and yet how inexplicable upon principle is it, that we wander from adjacent beauties to remote ones, which, after much toil of mind and body, frequently prove to be inferior to those we leave behind, which have a thousand times courted us in vain both by their attractions and their facilities of access! How often do we brave the seas and the tempests to draw pleasure from continental resources, and how frequently do we learn from foreigners the beauties of our own country! Is it that we place a false value upon what is difficult of attainment, and feel but little relish for that which can be procured with little exertion? A Scottish gentleman, in whose estate a hill, called Mount Damietta, stands, near Stirling, when in Italy was expressing to a native of that country the delight which the scenery of that beautiful region afforded him, and declared it to be the finest in the world. "It is very fine, undoubtedly," said the Italian, "but inferior to the one in Scotland; I mean the view from the hill Damietta, near Stirling." The Scottish gentleman was much surprised, and somewhat embarrassed in not being able to make the comparison himself, for

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the truth was, he had never visited the top of his own mount, and was ashamed to own it.

After having felt somewhat of this fashionable infatuation, with delicate health, however, to offer in excuse, I resolved upon judging for myself of a people and a country long renowned in history, and who, in the pages of a writer high in the annals of literary fame, appeared with a double character, at one time in-. viting with attraction, at another repelling with disgust.

In the pursuit of my object, I had the additional satisfaction of reflecting that I had no boisterous seas to cross, and no keen and perilous investigations of a hostile police to encounter. Having purified my mind from the prejudices which ill-humoured or sarcastic representations had at various times impressed upon it, I set off for Scotland; and as the line of route was to me in some degree novel, I loitered a little in my way, to contemplate objects that I found not only new, but highly interesting.

I commenced my tour with emotions of gratitude to that beneficent and all-wise Ruler who has hitherto preserved us from sharing in the humiliation of so many nations of the earth, and who enables us to wander, as business, pleasure, or the love of information may impel, over a country which we may still proudly call our own, without being compelled to witness the devastations of war, or to contemplate the triumphant march of insatiable ambition.

Seated in an island favoured by Heaven, and fortified by nature against the political storms that rage around us, we view their angry progress, as the astronomer in the calmness of the night contemplates the erratic course of the flaming meteor, in safe and solemn meditation.

The delightful month of June had just commenced when I left London; and, after passing through a country which possessed very little to gladden the eye or interest the mind, I arrived at Cambridge, where I had the gratification of being the bearer of letters of introduction to several gentlemen, distinguished for their knowledge and extent of research in distant countries, and of contemplating many magnificent and venerable edifices sacred to learning, along whose walls the Cam slowly and silently moves, as if conscious that it flowed through the seat of study and meditation, reflecting upon its dark and placid surface many a luxuriant bank, and tree of stately growth, harmoniously grouped together, and naturally disposing the mind untamiliarized to the scene, to pensive reflection.

The groves and gardens of the colleges are equally sweet and equally solemn; but they had materially suffered by a recent and violent flood, which had overflowed the country to a great extent, and had left many rueful marks of its visitation upon tree, shrub, bank, and flower. Among the trees, three weeping elms are pointed out to the stranger, which cannot be seen without admiration. I do not mean to fatigue the reader by elaborate architectural descriptions of the different buildings which adorn this celebrated seat of science; but I cannot pass over unnoticed the chapel of King's College, which, for size, lightness, and beauty, has no rival in this country, and, I am well informed, none in any other.

In this, as in most pure Gothic buildings, the principal exterior decorations are reserved for its summits; but what pencil or pen can adequately pourtray the symmetry and beauty of the interior of this pile? The eye rises with delight from the floor to the elegant roof of Gothic arches, springing from their buttresses; it then roves along the "slender shafts of shapely stone," finely contrasted with the florid richness of the painted windows, and the whole decorated with a profusion of elaborate ornaments, varying from each other in form, and rivalling each other in beauty. The imagination is more disposed to consider this exquisite structure as the fabled temple raised by magic than a fabric of human workmanship. It stands a splendid monument of the taste, piety, and munificence of Henry VI. its original founder, and of succeeding sovereigns. The sight of such a building would nobly remunerate the pains and perils of a long pilgrimage.

A natural curiosity induced me to pay an early visit to the rooms which the illustrious Pitt occupied in Pembroke College, where I felt that glow of enthusiasm which, departed genius never fails to excite in the spot which it has rendered sacred by its presence. A Professor, who favoured me with his company on the occasion, had the honour of having known that exalted character well. He informed me, in opposition to the generally credited remark that Mr. Pitt knew but little of Greek, that he was thoroughly well versed in that language at the age of fourteen, but that he never quoted from any Greek authors in the senate, from a well-founded conviction that the only impression he would have excited amongst the greater portion of his auditors would have been that of pedantry. How finely and powerfully his Latin quotations applied is in the public recollection. Mathematics formed his favourite study, to the pursuit of which,

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he used to observe, he intended to return, whenever the cares of the state no longer demanded his undivided attention, though he shook the senate with the thunder of his eloquence, in private life he was remarkable for his gentle and unassuming manners. In the colloquial pleasures of the table he would listen with the most patient good humour to great "talkers, and argue with them as if his mental powers had been but a little above their own. He never, like Jupiter conversing with the clown, appealed to his thunder. He supported the diffident, and played with the overbearing: in short, in the hours of relaxation, he charmed and delighted, as much as, in those which were devoted to the public welfare, he excited the astonishment and admiration of the world.

It is a matter worthy of remark, that scarcely in one instance throughout the eventful histories of two of the most illustrious statesmen and orators that ever adorned this or any other country, is any coincidence to be found, except in the extent and brilliancy of their mental powers, and the melancholy fate which consigned them together to the common lot of mortality. Even in their early studies, whilst Cambridge derives increased celebrity from having the name of Pitt upon her records, Oxford may boast with equal pride the lasting honour of having imparted to Fox the treasures of her learning.

The same spirit of (I hope not illaudable) curiosity induced me to explore the apartments which Gray occupied in the same college. Strange to remark, no one belonging to it could be found to tell me where they were. At last an aged inhabitant of the town was sent for, who immediately conducted me to them. In one of the rooms of this college there is a medallion of Mason. The Professor I before mentioned remembered Gray when at college, and observed, that what principally remained upon his recollection was his large Aquiline nose, and cold inaccessible manner: in the garden belonging to this college there is a Gothic bower remaining, though hastening to rapid decay, which he and Mason planned. It is singular that in the common hall there is no portrait of either Gray or Pitt: to the memory of the latter, however, a fine statue is to be erected in the senate house, by that able and tasteful artist, Nollekens. Under one of the windows in one of the rooms which Gray previously occupied at St. Peter's College, there still remains a staple, which the Poet, who was very fearful of fire, had fixed there, for the purpose of escaping from the danger of that element by a rope ladder. An authentic anecdote is told of a çol

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