PARA; OR, SCENES AND ADVENTURES ON THE

BANKS OF THE AMAZON.

BY J. E. WARREN.

Regions immense, unsearchable, unknown,

Bask in the sunshine of the torrid zone.-MONTGOMERY.

CHAPTER IX.

The Caripe Hummer.-Shells.-Death of a Naturalist.-Island of Marajo.-Trip to Jungcal-Our Indian Captain Gaviono.—His romantic Character.—Living on Board a Brazilian Schooner. A thrilling Adventure. - Curious Game.Mexiana.- Mysterious Mound.—A Night in the Stream.

AT sunrise on the ensuing morning we emerged from our hammocks, and having fortified our stomachs with a strong cup of coffee, we sallied out into the adjoining woods. We spent about two hours in the forest, at the expiration of which time we returned to our breakfast, well-laden with game. Among the curious birds that we had killed, was a small humming-bird, different from any we had ever seen before, and peculiar in having its bill singularly turned upwards, and flat at the point. We took upon ourselves the responsibility of naming it, calling it, in commemoration of the spot, "The Caripe Hummer." If it has ever been named before, which we very much doubt, we beg the original discoverer's pardon !

Rambling along the beach at low tide, we gathered quite a number of heart-shaped castalias. These muscles were of a dark appearance externally, but of a pearly irridescence within, and are much esteemed by conchologists.

In the afternoon we took our departure, and arrived in the city about nine in the evening. A lamentable occurrence took place at Caripe some few weeks afterwards.

Among the number of persons whose acquaintance we had made while in the city, was a young Englishman by the name of Graham, who had left his native country in quest of health, accompanied by his lovely wife and only child. During his residence in Brazil he had devoted a great portion of his time in prosecuting the study of natural history, and had succeeded, by industry and untiring perseverance, in acquiring an extensive collection of birds, quadrupeds, and shells. His younger brother had recently arrived from England, for the purpose of escorting him back to his native land-his boyhood's home!

The elder Graham, being desirous of giving his brother a glimpse of the country before their departure for England, suggested a trip to Caripe, whither, in company with a faithful black who had been his constant companion, they all went. Wishing one day to cross over to the island of Marajo, he started out in a little canoe, for the purpose of gaining a larger one, which was lying at anchor in the river, about half a mile from the shore. Through some carelessness or mismanagement, the frail boat was upset, and Mr. Graham, together with his wife and child, all plunged into the water. Every exertion was made by those in the larger vessel to save them, but

without avail. The three were drowned! This tragic scene was witnessed by young Graham from the beach, but, alas! he could render no assistance. What tumultuous throes of anguish must have wrung that orphan brother's heart on beholding those most dear to him on earth swallowed up in a moment by the relentless wave, leaving him alone in a land of strangers! Mr. Graham was himself an excellent swimmer, but he lost his own life in a vain endeavour to save that of his wife. Their bodies, tightly locked together, floated ashore. Surely, "they loved in life, and in death they were not divided." A rude grave was digged in the sand, and the sad remains of worth and beauty consigned to its bosom. Here, amid the solitude of beautiful nature, and on the banks of the king of rivers, they sweetly repose. No tear of friendship bedews the spot, but the rising tide of the mighty Amazon daily weeps over it. Martyrs to the science they so nobly prosecuted, they are calmly sleeping at Caripe!

"There breathes the odour of summer flowers,

And the music of birds is there."

Having passed another agreeable week in the city, we decided on making a visit to the beautiful island of Marajo. This island lies directly in the mouth of the Amazon, and is somewhat more than a hundred miles in length by from fifty to eighty in breadth. On account of its rare beauty and the infinite variety of its flowering plants, it has been significantly called by the natives "The isle of flowers." The island abounds in large campos, or extensive meadows, covered with tall grass, which are frequented by immense numbers of wild cattle and horses. If a census were taken of the former, the amount undoubtedly would be considerably above half a million; but as no census has ever been taken, we cannot, therefore, state with exactness the number of the horned population, The horses, too, were so abundant some years since, that they were killed by hundreds, merely for the sake of their hides. At that time. well-trained horses could have been purchased in the city for the trifling sum of ten dollars, and the best ones seldom brought more than twenty-five. A malignant disorder, however, finally broke out among them, which destroyed a great proportion of their number, and seemed to threaten extermination to the entire race. Since then they have been comparatively scarce, but many thousands still exist and roam over the fertile plains of Marajo!

Jungcal was the name given to the estate which we proposed visiting. Being situated on the northern side of the island, we were obliged to take a wide sweep in order to reach it, and thus make a voyage of from four to five days' duration, to accomplish a journey the direct distance of which could not possibly have been more than fifty or seventy miles.

The vessel in which we sailed was a queer-looking schooner, being used exclusively in the transportation of wild cattle from Jungcal to the city. It was manned entirely by natives, and the captain himself was an Indian, and decidedly the most intelligent and entertaining one that we had previously encountered. He was both a skilful musician and an inveterate story-teller. His name was Gaviono. Throughout the day he was as lively as a lark, and appeared to take a peculiar pleasure in recounting to us the many

strange adventures with which his memory was so well supplied; the singular incidents he had himself met with; the various lovescenes in which he had faithfully acted the part of Romeo; the dangers through which he had passed; and the numerous startling legends of the province, with all of which he was perfectly familiar. But when the shades of night fell on the river, and the fragrant and soothing breeze from the land blew freshly over the waters, and the stars of heaven beamed brightly in the sky, then a perceptible change came over the spirit of Gaviono's dreamlike life. All gaiety then vanished from his mind, and for hours together he would swing in his grass-woven hammock without speaking a single word, but all the time playing a succession of plaintive airs on his musical, though rudely constructed guitar.

Sometimes, too, when in a merrier mood, he would favour us with a song. His voice was powerful, and of surpassing richness, but wholly unfettered by the rules of singing art. He sang but few songs, and these were chiefly of a national character. They were deeply characterized by a wildness of sentiment and strangeness of melody, that could easily be felt but with difficulty described.

Music is at all times pleasing to the ear, and seems to exert a very beneficial, although mysterious, influence upon the human soul! What a soothing power it has over the troubled spirit when appeased by sorrow, or overburdened with grief? Like oil poured out upon the tempestuous waters, it calms the heavings of the soul; modifies the turbulence of excited passion; elevates the intellect; smooths the temper; and restores universal peace and placitude to the perturbed faculties of the mind. Is it not then a gift direct from God?

But he who would feel the full potency of music must hear it while gliding over tranquil waters; when the atmosphere is balmy and pure, and the scenery around of that wild and romantic character so well calculated to call into action the sublimer emotions of the mind. Let it be at night, when the stars are shining brightly, and the moon in silent majesty is moving swiftly through its azure pathway in the sky, and then he who can listen unmoved to the sweetest strains of music as they steal softly upon his senses, must have a heart too cold for earth-oh! let him never hope for heaven!

It was under such circumstances as these that we loved especially to listen to Gaviono's voice; and nothing appeared to afford him more gratification and delight than the sincere praises we were in the habit of bestowing upon his humble, although none the less admirable performance.

Owing to the dangers and impediments of the river navigation, we invariably anchored at night. At early morn. we were again under weigh, sailing along shores gemmed with flowering rushes, and fringed with the most magnificent shrubbery, which hung in heavy masses over the placid surface of the water.

Our repasts were by no means epicurean: a miserable dilution, familiarly styled coffee, was our daily beverage, and coarse farinha and jerked beef our only edibles. The latter consisted of long strips of meat that had been thoroughly dried by exposure to the sun. There being no stove on board, a fire was made on some large stones, and the process of cooking performed by securing a piece of

the dried beef on the end of a forked stick, and holding it directly over the blaze, until it was sufficiently roasted and smoked for agreeable mastication!

While our schooner was at anchor, we frequently went ashore in the small boat, in quest of natural curiosities and game. On one afternoon, I remember, I remained on board, while Jenks, my constant companion, started off in the little boat, accompanied by several of the men, he intending to hunt for birds, and they to seek for crabs.

On arriving at the beach, the men separated from Jenks, and followed up a small stream, looking eagerly for shell-fish, while he, solitary and alone, wandered along the outskirts of the forest, listening attentively to every sound, and watching with a sportsman's eye for any movement that might be made among the branches over his head. I occasionally heard the report of his gun as it came booming over the water, and began to regret that I had not gone ashore with him. The schooner was moored at least a mile from the shore, so that we were unable to see anything of our companions, except when standing by themselves in bold relief upon the sandy beach.

But to return to Jenks. For two hours he rambled along the margin of the dark wildwoods, occasionally penetrating for a few rods into the thicket, as the voice of some strange bird attracted him thither. Having killed quite a number of richly-plumaged birds, he at last issued from the forest and descended to the beach. To his infinite amazement and consternation the small boat was nowhere to be seen. "What! had his companions deserted him! or, had they become intoxicated, and, in endeavouring to reach the schooner, been drowned." These were the thoughts that broke upon his mind, as he reflected upon the horrible idea of being abandoned, and necessitated to pass the night upon that lonely and gloomy shore.

It was near sunset, and in half an hour more the dark mantle of night would be thrown over the beautiful landscape around! No time was to be lost; he exerted his voice to its utmost capacity, but it failed to reach our ears. We were then lounging sluggishly in our hammocks, and our senses being somewhat blunted by Morpheus, we neither saw our friend nor heard his voice. Scanning the surface with a hawk-like eye, Jenks finally caught a glimpse of the small boat floating at some distance from the shore. It had been carried away by the tide. At this fortunate moment the men emerged from the woods; as soon as they perceived the condition of the boat, one of them jumped instantaneously into the water, and being an excellent swimmer, soon reached the boat, into which he got, and paddled it again ashore. They then returned to the schooner. Jenks related the incident with considerable warmth: "Never," said he, "shall I forget the feelings I experienced during those few moments of anxiety, were I to live until every hair on my head is grey."

Among the birds which Jenks had killed were several handsome parrots, a couple of glistening jacamars, a variety of little manakins, with their white and crimson crests, together with a red squirrel and a small black monkey.

"Upon my word," said I, "I regret very much that I did not accompany you. You have had much better luck than I anticipated."

"I wish myself that you had been with me," replied Jenks, "you would have seen as splendid an ornithological spectacle as you ever gazed on before. While walking along the forest I frightened up a flock of tall scarlet flamingoes from a marshy thicket, where they had been feeding. I fired at them instantly, but, on account of the distance, my shot had no perceptible effect."

"It must, indeed, have been on account of the distance," replied I, "for never did I know you to miss your mark when within a suitable shooting distance; but, by heavens! I would have given up all my hopes of pleasure for a week to come, to have had a moment's glimpse at these flamingoes; for, to tell the truth, I never saw a live specimen in my life. It must truly have been a gorgeous sight."

"I have some curious shells in my pocket," said Jenks, "which I picked up on the shore; also several fine guanas, which I preserved particularly for you,-here they are," continued he, at the same time handing me several of this well known fruit. They were about the size of a peach, with a bright yellow skin; within, the pulp was of the deepest crimson, and of a very agreeable taste. "Let us try and get something to eat," remarked Jenks, "for I'm as hungry as an ogre." Saying this we went together into the cabin, where we made a hearty supper on jerked beef and farinha ; humble as it was, we enjoyed it much more than the reader can imagine or we describe.

During the evening we swung in our hammocks in the open air, and chatted with each other on the events of the day, and of the delights we anticipated on Marajo. Gaviono, also, favoured us with several of his admirable songs.

At an early hour on the following morning our worthy captain, Gaviono, pointed out to us a charming island, whose tall palm-trees in the distance appeared like tufts of verdure rising above the watery surface. It was the lovely island of Mexiana, concerning whose beauties and various attractions we had heard many graphic accounts, and of whose splendid birds and curious animals we had seen several extraordinary specimens.

The island is from forty to fifty miles in extent, and from ten to twenty in width. It has but one house of any consequence, which is quite large, is of two stories in height, has several commodious rooms, and is surrounded by the most enchanting scenery imaginable. The beach, which lies within a short distance in front of the house, is of snowy whiteness, and abounds with many varieties of pearly muscles, and other valuable shells. The campos, like those of Marajo, are well supplied with cattle, numbers of which are periodically exported to the city. The forest is noted for the abundance of its fierce jaguars and brilliant birds, and the streams teem with alligators and singular fish. Mr. Graham, the enterprising naturalist, whose unfortunate death at Caripe we have heretofore alluded to, collected, during a residence of three months on this island, upwards of two hundred distinct species of birds, besides an infinite variety of insects, shells, and other natural curiosities. He spoke in glowing terms of the various charms of the island, and said that the attractions it offered to the lover of natural history were unrivalled by those of any spot he had ever before visited.

There is a considerable mound in the centre of the island which