below Lisbon; the Guadiana, which falls into the fame ocean near Cape Finisterre; as does the Guadalquiver at St. Lucar; and the Ebro, the ancient Iberus, which falls into the Mediterranean fea below Tortefa.

The river Tinto, the qualities of which are very extraordinary, rifes in Sierra Morena, and empties itself into the Mediterranean, near Huelva, The name of Tinto has been given it from the tinge of its waters, which are as yellow as a topaz, hardening the fand, and petrifying it in a moft furprizing manner. If a ftone happens to fall in, and rest upon another, they both become, in a year's time, perfectly united and conglutinated. This river withers all the plants on its banks, as well as the roots of trees, which it dyes of the fame hue as its waters. No kind of verdure will come up where it reaches, nor any fifh live in its ftream. It kills worms in cattle when given them to drink; but in general no animals will drink out of this river, excepting goats, whofe flesh nevertheless has an excellent flavour. Thefe fingular properties continue till other rivulets run into it and alter its nature; for when it pafies by Niebla, it is not different from other rivers. It falls into the Mediterranean fea, fix leagues lower down.

Several lakes in Spain, particularly that of Beneventa, abound with fifh, particularly excellent trout. The water of a lake near Antiquera is made into falt by the heat of the fun.

BAYS.] The chief bays are thofe of Bifcay, Ferrol, Corunna (com monly called the Groyne), Vigo, Cadiz, Gibraltar, Carthagena, Alicant, Altea, Valencia, Rofes, Majorca in that ifland, and the harbour of PortMahon in the island of Minorca. The ftrait of Gibraltar divides Europe from Africa.

METALS AND MINERALS.] Spain abounds in both, and in as great variety, of the fame kinds, as the other countrics of Europe. Cor. nelian, agate, loadftone, jacinths, turquois ftones, quickfilver, copper, lead, fulphur, alum, calamine, cryftal, marbles of feveral kinds, por phyry, the finest jafper, and even diamonds, emeralds, and amethyfts, are found here. The Spanish iron, next to that of Damafcus, furnishes the best arms in the world, and, in former times, brought in a vast re venue to the crown; the art of working it being here brought to great perfection.-Spanish gun-barrels, and fwords of Toledo, are fill highly valued. Among the ancients, Spain was celebrated for gold and filver mines; and filver was in fuch plenty, that Strabo, who was con temporary with Auguftus Cæfar, informs us, that when the Carthagi nians took poffeffion of Spain, their domeftic and agricultural utenfils were of that metal. Thefe mines have now disappeared; but whether by their being exhausted, or through the indolence of the inhabitants in not working them, we cannot fay; though the latter caufe feems to be the most probable.

ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS,

BY SEA AND LAND.

}

The Spanish horfes, efpecially thofe of Andalufia, are thought to be the hand fomeft of any in Europe, and at the fame time very fwift and fervice able. The king does all he can to monopolife the finest breeds for his own flables and fervice. Spain furnishes likewife mules and black cattle; and the wild bulls have fo much ferocity, that the bull-feats were the most magnificent fpectacle the court of Spain could exhibir; nor are they yet difufed. Wolves are the chief beafts of prey in Spain, which is well flored with all the game and wild fowl that are to be found in the neighbouring countries already defcribed. The Spanish feas afford excellent fifh of all kinds, efpecially anchovies, which are here cured in great perfection. This country is much infefted with

locufts; and Mr. Dillon obferves, that, in 1754, La Mancha was covered with them, and the horrors of famine affailed the fruitful provinces of Andalufia, Murcia, and Valencia. They have fometimes appeared in the air in fuch numbers as to darken the fky; the clear atmosphere of Spain has become gloomy, and the finest fummer day in Eftremadura been rendered more difmal than the winter of Holland. Their fenfe of fmelling is fo delicate, that they can difcover a corn field or a garden at a confiderable distance; which they will ravage almost in an inftant. Mr. Dillon is of opinion, that the country people, by timely attention and obfervation, might deftroy the eggs of thefe formidable infects, and thereby totally extirpate them.

POPULATION, INHABITANTS, MANNERS, Spain, formerly the

CUSTOMS, DIVERSIONS, AND DRESS. most populous kingdom in Europe, is now but thinly inhabited. This is owing partly to the great drains of people fent to America, and partly to the indolence of the natives who will not labour to raife food for their families. Ans other caufe may be affigned, and that is, the vast number of ecclefiaftics, of both fexes, who lead a life of celibacy. Some writers have affigned several other causes, fuch as their wars with the Moors, and the final expulfion of that people. The prefent inhabitants of this kingdom have been computed, by Feyjoo, a Spanish writer, to amount to 9,250,000; fo that England is three times as populous as Spain, confidering its extent.

The perfons of the Spaniards are generally tall, especially the CaftiHans; their hair and complexions fwarthy, but their countenances are very expreffive. The court of Madrid has of late been at great pains to clear their upper lips of the muftachoes, and to introduce among them the French dress instead of their black cloaks, their fhort jerkins, ftraight breeches, and long Toledo fwords, which drefs is now chiefly confined to the lower ranks. The Spaniards, before the acceffion of the Houfe of Bourbon to the throne, affected that antiquated drefs, in hatred and contempt of the French; and the government probably will find fome difficulty in abolishing it entirely, as the fame fpirit is far from being extinguished. An old Caftilian, or Spaniard, who fees nonet above him, thinks himfelf the most important being in nature; and the fame pride is commonly communicated to his defcendants. This is the true reafon why many of them are fo fond of removing to Ame rica, where they can retain all their native importance, without the danger of feeing a fuperior.

Ridiculous, however, as this pride is, it is productive of the most exalted qualities. It infpires the nation with generous, humane, and virtuous fentiments; it being feidom found that a Spanish nobleman, gentleman, or even trader, is guilty of a mean action. During the most embittered wars they have had with England, for near 100 years paft, we know of no inftances of their taking advantage (as they might easily have done) of confifcating the British property on board their galleons and Plate fleet, which was equally fecure in time of war as peace. This is the more furprising, as Philip V. was often needy, and his minifters were far from being fcrupulous of breaking their good faith with Great Britain.

By the best and most credible accounts of the late wars, it appears that the Spaniards in America gave the most humane and noble relief to all British fubjects who were in diftrefs and fell into their hands, not only by fupplying them with neceffaries, but money; and treating them in the moft hofpitable manner while they remained among them.

Having faid thus much, we are carefully to diftinguith the Spanish nobility, gentry, and traders from the lower ranks of Spaniards, whe are as mean and rapacious as thofe of any other country. The kings of Spain, of the Houfe of Bourbon, have feldom ventured to employ native Spaniards of great families as their minifters. Thefe are generally French or Italians, but moft commonly the latter, who rife into power by the mof infamous arts, and of late times from the moft ab ject ftations. Hence it is, that the French kings of Spain, fince their acceffion to that monarchy, have been but very indifferently ferved in the cabinet. Alberoni, who had the greatest genius among them, en. broiled his mafter with all Europe, till he was driven into exile and difgrace; and Grimaldi, the laft of their Italian minifters, hazarded a rebellion in the capital, by his oppreffive and unpopular measures.

The common people who live on the coafts partake of all the bad qualities that are to be found in other nations. They are an affemblage of Jews, French, Ruffians, Irish adventurers, and English fmugglers, who, being unable to live in their own country, mingle with the Spapiards. In time of war, they follow privateering with great fuccefs; and when peace returns, they engage in all illicit practices, and often enter into the Irish and Walloon guards in the Spanish fervice. There are about 40,000 gypfies, who, befides their trade of fortune-telling, are inn-keepers in the fmall towns and villages. The character of the Spaniards is thus drawn by Mr. Swinburne. The Catalans ap pear to be the most active stirring fet of men, the beft calculated for bufinefs, travelling, and manufactures. The Valencians are a more fullen fedate race, better adapted to the occupations of husbandmen, Jefs eager to change place, and of a much more timid, fufpicious cart of mind than the former. The Andalufians feem to be the greatest talkers and rhodomontaders of Spain. The Caftilians have a manly franknefs, and lefs appearance of cunning and deceit. The New Caf tilians are, perhaps, the leaft induftrious of the whole nation; the Old Caftilians are laborious, and retain more of the ancient fimplicity of manners;-both are of a firm determined fpirit. The Arragonefe are a mixture of the Caftilian and Catalan, rather inclining to the former. The Bifcayners are acute and diligent, fiery and impatient of controul, more refembling a colony of republicans than a province of an abfolute monarchy; and the Galicians are a plodding pains taking race of mortals, that roam over Spain in search of a hardly-camed fubfiftence."

The beauty of the Spanish ladies reigns moftly in their novels and romances: for though it must be acknowledged that Spain produces as fine women as any country in the world, yet beauty is far from form. ing their general character. In their perfons they are generally fmall and flender; but they are faid to employ great art in fupplying the defeds of nature. If we were to hazard a conjecture, we might res fonably fuppofe that thofe artifices rather diminish than increase beauty, efpecially when they are turned of 25. Their indifcriminate ufe of paint, not only upon their faces, but their necks, arms, and hands, un doubtedly disfigures their complexions and fhrivels their fkin. It is at the fame time univerfally allowed, that they have great wit and vivacity.

Among the many good qualities poffeffed by the Spaniards, their fo briety in eating and drinking is remarkable. They frequently break. faft, as well as fup, in bed. Their breakfaft is ufually chocolate, tea being very feldom drank. Their dinner is generally beef, mutton,

real, pork, bacon, and greens, &c. all boiled together. They live much upon garlic, chives, fallad, and radishes; which, according to one of their proverbs, are food for a gentleman. The men drink very little wine; and the women ufe water or chocolate. Both fexes usually fleep after dinner, and take the air in the cool of the evening. This is the common practice in warm countries, fuch as Italy, Spain, and Portugal, where, generally fpeaking, the weather is clear, and the inhabi tants are mostly in the habit of rifing much earlier than in England. The human body cannot furnish fpirits fufficient to refift the effects of the violent heat, through the whole day, without fome fuch refreshment: it is, therefore, the univerfal practice to go to fleep for fome hours after dinner, which in thofe countries is over early; and this time of repofe, which lafts for two or three hours, is in Spain called the Siefta, and in Portugal the Sefta. Dancing is so much their favourite entertainment, that you may fee a grandmother, mother, and daughter, all in the fame country-dance. Many of their theatrical exhibitions are infipid and ridiculous bombaft. The prompter's head fometimes appears through a trap-door above the level of the stage, and he reads the play loud enough to be heard by the audience. Gallantry is a ruling paffion in Spain." Jealoufy, fince the acceffion of the Houfe of Bourbon, has slept in peace. The nightly mufical ferenades of miftreffes by their lovers are fill in ufe. The fights of the cavaliers, or bull-feafts, are almoft peculiar to this country, and make a capital figure in painting the genius and manners of the Spaniards. On thefe occafions, young gentlemen have an opportunity of fhowing their courage and activity before their mif treffes: and the valour of the cavalier is proclaimed, honoured, and rewarded, according to the number and fiercenefs of the bulls he has killed in thefe encounters. Great pains are ufed in fettling the form and weapons of the combat, fo as to give a relief to the gallantry of the cavalier. The diverfion itself, which is attended with circumftances of great barbarity, is undoubtedly of Moorish original, and was adopted by the Spaniards when upon good terms with that nation, partly through complaifance, and partly through rivalship.

There is not a town in Spain but what has a large fquare for the purpofe of exhibiting bull-fights; and it is faid, that even the pooreft inhabitants of the finallest villages will often club together, in order to procure a cow or an ox, and fight them, riding upon affes for want of

horfes.

RELIGION.] The Romish religion is the only one tolerated in Spain. The inquifition is a tribunal difgraceful to human-nature; but though difufed, it is not yet abrogated; but the ecclefiaftics and their officers can carry no fentence into execution without the royal authority. The Spaniards embrace and practise the Roman-catholic religion with all its abfurdities, and in this they have been fo fteady, that their king is diftinguished by the epithet of Moft Catholic. It appears, however, that the burning zeal which diftinguished their ancestors above the rest of the catholic world has loft much of its activity, and feems nearly extinguifhed; and the power of the clergy has beca much reduced of late years. A royal edict has alfo been iffued, to prevent the admiffion of novices into the different convents, without fpecial permiffion: which has a great tendency to reduce the monaftic orders. It is computed that there are now, in the kingdom of Spain, 54,000 friars, 34,000 nuns, and 20,000 fecular clergy, but as little true moral religion as in any country under heaven.

la Catalonia, the confidence of the people in the inter:effion of faints

has at all periods been a fource of confolation to them, but upon fome occafions has betrayed them into mifchief. Every company of attifans, and every fhip that fails, is under the immediate protection of fome patron. Befides folio volumes, which teftify the innumerable miracles performed by our Lady in Montferrat, every fubordinate shrine is loaded with votive tablets. This has been the parent of prefumption, and among the merchants has brought many families to want. The companies of infurance, in the laft war, having each of them its favourite faint, fuch as San Ramon de Penaforte, la Virgen de la Merced, and others, affociated in form by the articles of partnership, and named in every policy of infurance; and having with the oft fcrupulous exactnefs allotted to them their correfpondent dividend, the fame as to any other partner, they concluded that with fuch powerful affociates it was not poflible for them to fuffer lofs. Under this perfuafion, they ventured, about the year 1779, to infure the French Weft Indiamen at fifty per cent. when the English and Dutch had re. fused to do it at any premium, and indeed when moft of the fhips were already in the English ports. By this fatal ftroke, all the infuring companies, except two, were ruined.

ARCHBISHOPRICS AND BISHOP RICS.] In Spain there are eight archbishoprics, and forty-fix bishoprics. The archbishop of Toledo is styled the primate of Spain; he is great chancellor of Caftile, and has a revenue of 100,0001. fterling per annum; but the Spanish court has now many ways of leffening the revenues of the church, as by penfions, donations to hofpitals, &c. and premiums to the focieties of agriculture. This archbishopric pays annually 15,000 ducats to the monks of the Efcurial, befides other penfions; and it is afferted that there is not a bishopric in Spain but has fomebody or other quartered upon it; and the fecond-rate benefices are believed to be in the fame predicament. Out of the rich canonries and prebends are taken the penfions of the new order of knights of Carlos Tercero. The riches of the Spanish churches and convents are the unvarying objects of admiration to all travellers as well as natives; but there is a fameness in them all, excepting that they differ in the degrees of treasure and jewels they contain.

LANGUAGE.] The Spanish language, like the Italian, is derived from the Latin; and it might properly be called a baftard Latin, were it not for the terminations, and the exotic words introduced into it by the Moors and Goths, efpecially the former. It is a majestic and expreffive language and it is remarkable, that foreigners, who understand it heft, prize it moft. It makes but a poor figure even in the beft tranflations; and Cervantes fpeaks almost as awkward English, as Shakspeare does French. It may, however, be confidered as a standard tongue, having nearly retained its purity for upwards of 200 years. Their Paternofter runs thus: Padre nueftro, que estas in el cielo, fandifi. cado fe el tu nombre; venga a nos el tu reyno; hagafe tu voluntad, effi en la tierra commo en el cielo; el pan nueftro de cada dia da nos de oy; y perdona mes nueftras deudas affi como nos otros perdonamos a nueftros deudores; no nos dexes cair en la tentacion, mas libra nos de mal; porque taa es el reyno, y la patencia, y la gloria, por los figlos. Amen.

LEARNING AND LEARNED MEN.] Spain has not produced learned men in proportion to the excellent capacities of its natives. This defect may, in fome measure, he owing to the indolence and bigotry of the Spaniards, which prevents them from making that progress in the po Jite arts which they otherwife would: but the greateft impediment to