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goat-headed god, generally referred to as the "Moulder of Men,” is of a type already made familiar to us by the better excavated shrine of Hathor at Dendera ; and from its present half-buried condition one may the more readily understand the plight from which Dendera was rescued. All that has been exhumed at Esneh is the pronaos, or vestibule, of the temple proper, so that it appears as a huge portico standing in a deep pit - a portico of handsome columns, the spaces between which on the front of the temple have been walled in to half their height, precisely as we saw them in Hathor's shrine. A long flight of steps led down into the pit, so that all might descend and inspect the building at close range. How much more of it may lie buried behind this explorable part I do not know; but doubtless it would, if entirely freed from the accumulated rubbish, resemble throughout the general arrangement of the Hathor temple. For architectural beauty the little that can be seen is, to my mind, superior to Dendera. The columns are, of course, not Hathor columns, but bear flowered capitals of much grace; and the whole is admirably decorated in much the same way that the other temples have been. But there is at best very little to be seen at Esneh that cannot be better seen elsewhere, and we were back at the ship in little more than an hour, anxious to forge ahead
to Edfa, where the temple was known to be vastly more worth while.
We reached the landing of Edfû shortly after lunch, and were greeted as usual by almost the entire population, en masse. To these we surrendered at discretion, took beasts, and cantered away through the considerable village - raising an enormous cloud of dust. The temple we knew could not be far away, for its pylons towered over the intervening roofs and were visible from the river as we drew in. And in the course of a few moments we came suddenly upon it - a glorious great shrine, sacred to Horus, and by far the finest temple we have yet had opportunity to examine. As a matter of fact, it is almost as perfect as if recently built, and dates, as do all these better preserved buildings of the district, only from the time of the Ptolemies, though occupying a site hallowed by many centuries of religious use before their day.
We approached it from the rear, skirting along the outer girdle wall as massive as that of a fortress, and as perfect as one could desire. Freed from the accummulations of earth after many centuries of burial, the temple of Horus to-day is so complete in every part that it could be used for worship without the addition of a single stone.
To Horus we needed by this time no introduction, being well acquainted with the falcon-headed god,
son of Isis and Osiris, and we were in consequence fully prepared for his grotesque images which were everywhere, inside and out.
The temple of Edfû is entirely encircled by a massive girdle wall which towers to a great height and effectually prevents any view from without. Its orientation is almost exactly north and south. The main entrance is at the southern end, and is graced by an enormous pylon of the best type — two huge pyramidal towers with a gate between them. Within there is the usual vast open court, surrounded by a colonnade and paved with a great stone flagging. This court, with the depth of the great pylon, serves to make up nearly half the temple inclosure.
Close behind comes the temple proper, entrance being had through an imposing portico, very deep, and supported by a dozen massive columns, while its front is closed by the usual balustrade extending to half the height of the frontal pillars. An enormous stone falcon stands guard by the door. Then follows the inevitable hypostyle hall, and beyond it the sacred apartments, quite as we saw them at Dendera, with the sanctuary, or Holy of Holies, in the very heart of the building, shielded from all profane eyes. To this innermost recess of the building none but the high priest — the king - might penetrate, and the reliefs show him receiving the key from the hands of the god.