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others, except that the river has robbed it of its pylon, while its court before the main building is very small. It is, or was, completely girdled by a wall of brick, only part of which is left. Then follows a sort of inner cincture passing around the actual building and serving to inclose the hypostyle hall, which in this case does duty also as a vestibule. In the heart of the temple proper are two shrines instead of a single one, made necessary by the duplex character of the worship.
Owing to the appearance of an entirely new conception of the gods — the evil ones — the inscriptions of the columns took on a fresh interest. They were easily observed in the brilliant light of the forenoon, and were divided in character between those in low relief and those that were merely incised - a cheaper form of carving which nevertheless is decidedly the more common in these Ptolemaic and semi-Roman temples.
There was nothing else at Kom Ombo to see, and the steamer was able to complete her southward voyage early this afternoon when we came to our final resting-place at Assuan - or just below it. We can descry the town a little farther up the river, located on its eastern shore and facing the black and rocky island of Elephantine, around which the dwindling flood of the river pours in two tortuous channels. I
sailed or rowed — around it this afternoon, and again by moonlight this evening, but for once the night has brought little chill and the promise is for a hot time to-morrow, when we shall — some of us at least - seek out Philæ and make our farthest southing. To be sure, to-morrow is Sunday, and the official activities of Cook are suspended with true British regard for the Sabbath. The Dean is going to preach at the chapel on shore, and Raschid to-night caused a ripple of laughter by closing his speech with the announcement that “the backsheesh for the clergyman will be five piastres.” However, Mr. T., who has a fine family of daughters and a special dragoman of his own, is going to Philæ, and we are about to tempt Providence by going too, making the entire journey by boat. May a disapproving heaven still send us a favoring breeze!
ARCH 12. To-day we reached our farthest
south. We have seen Philæ - at least what part of it remains above water. And as we turned away from it, under the broiling afternoon sun, I felt, with what was very like a pang of regret, that we had headed about toward home.
It has been a day to remember. The time will come, I fear, when those who go to Assuan will see nothing of the island temples, once the jewel of Upper Egypt, which lie behind the great dam. The addition of fifteen feet more to that structure will almost totally engulf even the higher parts of the shrine. The chaste "Bed of Pharaoh " will be submerged. And when that time comes, those of us who have