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The tree famous in Lord Metcalfe time has fallen down. As the story goes, a Rissaldar used to assure the Delhi folks that he had interest with the Agent, and would use it, provided his horse, which was tied to a tree in the compound, was only mounted by applicants for court favour. The horse never had any rest during the day,-a constant crowd of suitors worried his life out.

The Magazine is close to the Residency. It has rendered the memory of Willoughby sacred to the page of English history, and was the cause of most of our difficulties during the siege. A correspondence has been going on for years (about twenty) regarding its removal to a safe place. Sir Charles Napier, with intuitive genius, pointed out its military defects as to position and construction; but all in vain—all in vain: there it stands, with a churchyard on one side of itto protect it, perhaps, and help people to mount on the tombstones, and so on over the wall. There are two points at which Delhi is notoriously insecure : its Magazine is filled with lakhs' worth of military stores, without sufficient military protection; and European cavalry are located at Meerut, forty miles off they can come over to Delhi if required, is the invariable reply. Now, when the tranquillity of India depends in a great measure on keeping Delhi safe and secure, we urge, with all the importance which attaches itself to so vital a subject, that the Magazine should be safely located, and European cavalry stationed at Delhi. Let Sir William Mansfield, the Commander in Chief of Bombay, inform the public what he advised Her Majesty's Government in this matter when Chief of the Staff to Lord Clyde.

:

The widening of the streets of Delhi will enable artillery to command them for the future; but European artillery should be supported by European cavalry, not by Native, in times of popu

lar tumult.

The Cashmere Gate is still in a ruined state; the breach to the right and left is still perceptible. If a traveller will place himself at a little distance from the City Gate, he will thus be near the spot where many gallant

| Englishmen fell during the siege:
the energetic Fagan was struck down
cheering on his men in the left hand
battery close to the Custom House;
Salkeld was mortally wounded in his
successful attempt to blow in the
Cashmere Gate; Nicholson was mor-
tally wounded in a narrow lane inside
the gate of the city-if a visitor turns
to the right, and follows the city wall
after he has entered the Cashmere
Gate, he will reach the fatal spot. A
little higher up the road on the left
hand side, after leaving the city, a
sacred spot will attract the attention of
every admirer of gallant men: there
rest the mortal remains of Nicholson,
Salkeld, Greathed, Clifford, and of ma-
ny other noble men-the Indian army
may well be proud of her sons. Fur-
ther up the road, we reach the Old
Cantonments, now a mass of ruins,
formerly the scene of many pleasant
parties and convivial meetings. But
there is a spot-we mark it well,—in
which, during the siege, the tent of one
of England's bravest sons was pitched.
As you faced that of the general, it was
on the left hand side of the street.
we mention Hodson's name, his form
seems to rise from the earth- -so bright,
so cheerful, so manly, so daring; his
charger at the tent door, impatient for
the strife. Who so ready for the
battle, who so cool in it, as Hodson?
Was it that fame envied the amalga-
mated force the possession of a Nichol-
son and a Hodson, that she allowed
death to snatch them away-beacons
for ages to tome,-bright jewels of the
Indian army? We have our casket, to
show to the defamer of the Indian army:
as we open it, all is hushed in death;
we tread on the graves of departed
warriors!

CHAPTER V.

As

A VISIT to the Kootub was fixed for the 14th of May. It is the wateringplace of Delhi. At daybreak, the Lahore Gate was reached; from it a metal road leads to the Kootub. The character of the country to the south of Delhi is essentially different from that to the north, after the limits of the Old Cantonments have been passed. The ground is intersected by low ranges of hills, and the whole country

is cut up by ravines. On the space between Delhi and the Kootub, city after city has been built, peopled, and has passed away; their prior existence being attested by vast ruins, covering an area of fifty or sixty miles square. After quitting the Lahore Gate, the suburb of Pahargunj will lie on the right hand. The distance of the Kootub may be estimated as eight or ten miles; half-way, the tomb of Sufdar Jung attracts attention, built in the midst of a fine large walled garden. Here the air is considered much better than that of Delhi, and it is used as a sanitarium. Opposite to Sufdar Jung's, the small town of Shah Murdan is worth seeing. Humayoon's tomb may be seen in the distance. It was from this place that Major Hodson made his noted capture of the ex-king of Delhi. The Kootub is celebrated for its fine pillar, -the highest, probably, in the world, built of red stone, and covered with Arabic inscriptions. Its builder's name is, oddly enough, unknown, and its origin a subject of endless dispute: the Hindoos claim it for their race, the Mahomedans for their's. There is also the famous iron pillar, whose end is said to rest on a serpent's head ;whoever can throw it down rules Hindoostan. The Mahrattas fired a cannon against it, but the pillar held its

own.

The royal family of Delhi had their palaces at the Kootub, and resorted to them for change of air, especially during the rains, when all Delhi came out to celebrate the Feast of Flowers.

Khoja Saheb is a famous shrine, and the burial-place of many distinguished Mahomedan families. Many of the tombs are of chaste and elegant designs, and elaborately carved. Sir Theophilus Metcalfe, Bart., the Agent to the Lieutenant-Governor, built a fine house close to the Kootub pillar; it commands a wild and historical prospect. As the visitor passes on beyond the Kootub pillar, he will be struck with an English inscription, on a pillar, of "Private Road of the King of Delhi." About three miles from the Kootub, the traveller will meet with many of the noted men of Delhi in the safe custody of the guardians of the tombs of Nizam-ood-deen, men who, in their day,

played a conspicuous part in the history of Hindoostan.

The ruined city of Toglakabad, the whim of a former king, is about five miles from the Kootub. Prior to the rebellion, the road to the Kootub was always crowded with Native visitors; fine gardens had been planted along it by the wealthy residents of Delhi: they have now paid the penalty of want of water and ruined masters.

But the Kootub is essentially a place to be alone in, to ponder on departed greatness. As we stand at the top of the Kootub pillar, we see Delhi in the distance, also the river Jumna; masses of ruins far and near. Emperor after emperor lies buried at our feet; also viziers, generals, poets, and a host of others. With so much to remind the Mahomedans of Delhi and its neighbourhood of what they have been, it is not surprising that the descendants of men once great, now paupers, should always look with interest on a disturbed political horizon, as likely to bring them a change of fortune. It is from this class of pauperised Mahomedans that our Hindoostanee irregular cavalry are principally recruited. Their past ancestral traditions must always lead them to contrast a state of independence and influence in past ages, as enjoyed by their forefathers, with their own present impoverished condition: they ought to be thankful for what they enjoy under the British Government; but human nature is somewhat perverse.

Bismillah was sensibly affected by all she saw. It appeared as if the royal line of Timour had passed away for ever. She felt her pride hurt, and gladly caught at any passing shadow likely to reassure her. It was at this point that Zynoodeen came to her assistance with his historical store of knowledge. He traced the course of Timour, of Baber, and of Humayoon, for her, in vivid colours. The latter emperor was an exile for fifteen years, still he again sat on the throne of his forefathers. Delhi had risen from the sword of a Nadir Shah, and from the scourge of the Mahrattas. If Delhi were cast into the sea, still she would live on the page of history: "Your highness must allow your slave to sing the

praises of your ancestors," said Zynoodeen.

66

Although the late rebellion has taught a severe lesson to many of the present generation, still the strong impulses of hope slumber not. Ready, aye ready!" should be our motto. After the rebellion, at a Native festival, a famous Delhi singer was present. She was not young, by no means prepossessing in her appearance,—had been rich, but, having been plundered, became for a time insane. She was asked to sing. She cast a withering look on the crowd of Punjabees collected around her, and sang some of her most pathetic Delhi and Lucknow songs. The Hindoostanee audience almost wept as the thrill of her fine voice sounded in the still air of an Indian summer evening. The words

"For Alim, my dear prince's sake,

I've wander'd far, from Delhi to Mooltan❞—

found a responsive chord in many a heart. But the voice is now silent for ever the grave has claimed its -the sweet songstress of Shahje

own

hanabad is dead.

CHAPTER VI.

66

a body, need a body tell ?" out of respect
to the prying character of the family
of the local press; for the old Pandy
corps, or rather for the loyal soldiers
of staunch Native corps, as well as
for Delhi's swell Natives, he declared
"The Rogues' March" was the proper
thing; for the mess of the 88th Con-
naught rangers, located in Skinner's
fine house, it was Cheer boys, Cheer,"
"The three jolly Post-boys," or
"We
won't go home till morning"; for Eu-
ropean soldiers the tune always was
"Rule Britannia." With the saluta-
tion in broken English of "All right
sars!" a cock of his eye was very useful
in making up to the British soldier.
Thus, with the big men, Khoda Buksh
was a loyal fellow; with the mission, a
hopeful fellow; with disloyal Natives,
their bad kismat; with the officers of
the 88th, a jolly dog; with the soldiers,
a regular Christian nigger.

All were soon seated, Bismillah in one carriage, with her nurse, and Indad Ali on the coach-box close to Khoda Buksh, and Zeenut Begum in the other, with Zynoodeen on the coach-box. The name of Brown shone conspicuous on the roof-who could doubt the loyalty of the party quitting Delhi? With a rear, a plunge, a push, and a blow, off started Bismillah's carriage, and Zeenut Begum's soon followed.

Up the Silver Street, a turn to the left, past the Begum's Garden, past the Residency, and a Native cart in the way checked the progress of Bismillah's vehicle. On the road stood Rory O'More, of the 88th foot, Popkins, the Deputy Commissioner, and the kotwal of the city, just opposite to the Church (originally built by Colonel Skinner).

AT 4 o'clock P. M. on the 15th of May 1860, two dâk carriages of the Inland Transit Company drew up at Bismillah's door. The horses were thin, addicted to rearing, difficult to start, but, when once off, Khoda Buksh blew his horn like a man. He had been a bugler in one of the mutinous corps prior to the rebellion; and having escaped hanging by the clemency of the amnesty, declared he would for the rest of his life serve the British Government faithfully, for-his own profit. He aimed at an air of civilisation: he were a cast-off infantry jacket, Native trowsers with a pair of old Wellington boots drawn over them, and a black velvet cap with a gold tassel. His horn was, however, his source of fame : he knew how to use it politically. For the General Commissioner and Popkins smiled-as only a civilian Deputy Commissioner he assigned the on good pay can smile,-and said: tune of "God save the Queen"; for 'My dear Rory, political the Delhi mission, "From Greenland's should not be the subject of after-tiffin Icy Mountains" was always ready; for jests. The Government place implicit . Mr. Squib, Mrs. Squib, and the Misses confidence in me (as seen by my drawSquib, he always blew "If a body kissing Rs. 1500 per mensem). My kotwal

Rory O'More held Popkins's hand, and asked inquiringly from the civilauthority-" Have you got your fellows in the city well in hand; do you know when they will kick, rear, or plunge, in fact, have you got your eyes open ?"

66

matters

keeps me well informed of the state of feeling in the city: an honest, open fellow he is."

66

"Kotwal!" said Popkins-" what news to-day ?"

The kotwal trembled when he saw Indad Ali, and felt that he must make a show of loyalty. He fell, therefore, at Popkins's feet, clasped them, and said," May your highness' life be long, and may you rise to be a lord! Your slave, this mean and insignificant thing, like dust on your blessed shoes, is intent day and night on the work of the Sirkar; not a mouse can move in Delhi without my knowledge. All's well! How could it be otherwise, when Popkins Saheb's name is feared from one side of Delhi to the other ?"

Popkins felt an honest glow of conscious dignity. He wished O'More good-bye, who strongly urged him to have a peg.

Popkins objected, with the grave remark,-" Captain O'More, if the Punjab Government knew that I, Mr. Popkins, took pegs at the mess-house of the 88th foot, I should be sent to

-Jhung !" (the penal civil station of the Punjab).

Captain O'More went quietly to his own rooms, called for his servant Smith, a soldier of his own corps, and, said "A peg !"

The sparkling liquor in the crystal glass soon disappeared. O'More's eye looked brighter, and he remarked, "The most thirsty thing I know is talking to a civilian-so green, so soft, so puffed up, so insufferably ignorant!"

Smith at once assented, and said,"All will go on well in India as long

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"You have a peg: fill the glass!" replied Captain O'More.

Smith made the usual military salute, and said-" Long life to your honour !"

Which was the greenest-O'More, who muddled his brains with pegs, or Popkins, who had none to muddle?

How little Europeans know of Natives and yet all civilians can tell you the most astounding stories of their honest Native establishments, and their own great insight into the sentiments of the people. It is all-bosh!

The Native cart had got out of the

way; Khoda Buksh blew his horn for the Squib party, to the tune of "If a body kiss a body, need a body tell ?" Indad Ali put his hand to his throat, and looked pleasantly at the kotwal, who salaamed submissively. Miss Squib ordered her coachman to give Khoda Buksh a cut with the whip. He was too sharp, however, and dashed through the Cashmere Gate.

On, on,-past the house formerly occupied by Sir John Lawrence; the long wall, now ruined, which protected the fine but now desolate estate of Sir Theophilus Metcalfe, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Jumna, has been left behind. On, on-past the Old Cantonments, and their sad reminiscences, and the open country has been reached-flat and desolate, as far as scenery is concerned, until Umballa is reached. There are, however, a few points of interest to be noted.

Our party is now fairly on its way to Cashmere. So thought Indad Ali, as he replied to Khoda Buksh's inquiry of where he was bound for by the lines of

"Who has not heard of the Vale of Cashmere, With its roses, the brightest that earth ever gave ?"

SPORT IN THE DECCAN.

FEW who are acquainted with the nature and habits of deer but are aware that those animals, coupled with fleetness, are possessed of instinctive powers so keen, that they are not only able to elude pursuit when being hunted by beasts of prey, but often baffle the most strenuous endeavours of the veteran stalker and sportsman to approach them. In most parts of the Deccan, antelope generally confine themselves to the table-land or plains, from which they make nightly excursions to fields in the vicinity to feed, causing many a young crop to suffer. They return to the plains invariably before dawn, where in bounding gambols and harmless play they pass the time till it becomes warm, when, either distributing themselves, or together, they lie down, but always on the brow of some eminence, from which they can command a view of the surrounding country, and to which no

approach can be made without a certainty of it being discovered by them. At noon, they seem to recover their natural activity, when, what with feeding on the scanty herbage the plains afford, and indulging, in antics of all kinds, they keep engaged till night-fall.

When these animals have not been hunted down, and terrified by natives of the surrounding villages, they seldom show much fear if approached, often allowing a sportsman to get within two hundred and fifty yards of them; and a good shot with the rifle may reckon upon success at that distance. The majority of sportsmen, however, not being first-rate shots, would seldom venture to fire at that distance, as a miss would in all probability be the result, the deer take fright, and no end of trouble be entailed to get within range a second time.

For a sportsman, then, who is but a middling shot, there are three courses, by either of which, if cautiously followed, he may safely reckon on success when out after deer: they are, first, stalking on foot ; second, stalking with a horse; third, stalking with a cart. At the same time, it must be recollected, that to stalk on foot alone there are three essential requisites,-a supple body, good lungs, and a steady hand; for when the deer are first sighted, the sportsman must, after a careful survey of the ground all round, select a spot from which he judges them to be within fair range. To arrive at such a spot, a détour often requires to be made of half a mile, sometimes more-every precaution being necessary to keep out of sight; and while making such a détour, the sportsman has to assume a variety of postures both tedious and fatiguing -especially when performed under the influence of a blazing sun. When arrived at the place selected, and finding he is within range, he may, after steadying his nerves for a few moments, fairly consider himself sure of his animal.

Stalking with a horse consists in having the horse led by a horse-keeper, the sportsman keeping as close possible, with the animal between himself and the deer. He must then make circuits round them, gradually making the circles smaller. The deer will at first

appear shy, but seeing that the horse does not make directly for them, they gain confidence, and commence grazing, so that the second circuit, if made cautiously, will seldom fail to bring the sportsman within range.

Stalking with a cart is similar to the method to be followed with a horse, theonly difference being that deer, accustomed to see cattle grazing round them, and yoked to the plough, show little or no fear on seeing a cart with bullocks yoked to it. They appear slightly surprised at first, but this wears off after the cart has been in sight a short time. It seldom requires a second circle made round them to bring the sportsman within range, and then he not only has the desideratum of being brought within a hundred yards of the animals without much trouble, but also that of having carriage for his game. I have bagged six buck antelope before noon by following this plan.

During my sojourn in the Deccan, I have had an opportunity of witnessing a deer hunt (the cheeta or spotted panther being the hunter in this instance), a description of which will be interesting to those who have not been present on such an occasion :—

Nearly all Jagheerdars in this part of the country, among other amusements, have a natural turn for spot, or shikaring; yet few of them, owing to their sedentary habits of life, are capable of undergoing any amount of fatigue. In lieu, therefore, of taking gun in hand and out after deer, they content themselves with keeping a trained cheeta to hunt for them.

The cheeta is generally purchased, when a cub, for about Rs. 50, and about the same amount is paid to an expert trainer to prepare the animal for the field. After being thoroughly trained, he is made over to his owner, who keeps him chained by a slip-belt round his loins, and always hoodwinked. His food, when not hunting, generally consists of a couple of good sized fowls per diem; but when he has been out, and successful in catching deer, he is indulged with a good feed off the remains of the game.

When taken out to hunt, the cheeta is placed on the top of a charpoy (country bedstead), and that, again, is made

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