24 THE PROTESTANT CHAPEL. * ginally the" Loge du Change," and still exhibits its former inscription," Virtute duce, comite fortuna." Many of the edifices in Lyons have changed their destination, and this among the rest. The Palais des Arts was an abbey belonging to the Benedictines; the Theâtre des Celestins was an abbey of the Celestines; most of the barracks were monasteries; and the House of Correction was anciently occupied by the Jesuits. We were rather late, and lost the beginning of the service, which consisted of the reading of some chapters from the Old and New Testament, and the decalogue. When we entered, the minister was offering up his petitions to heaven from a form of prayer. The three first verses of a canticle, called the Canticle of Zachariah, were then sung, by the whole congregation, to the solemn notes of the organ. Béni soit à jamais le grand Dieu d'Israel; L'auteur de tous les biens, tout-puissant, éternel, Dans ses compassions il nous a visités ; La maison de David, ce grand Roi des Hébreux, Qui vient nous affranchir d'un funeste esclavage, The sermon followed; it was delivered extempore, or from memory, with much animation, fluency, and action: but, at the same time, with a propriety of manner, and an absence of all extravagance, which it would be better if we could notice in many of those English preachers, who venture to give their exhortations without having them COMMUNION SERVICE. 25 written out. Long pauses were made during the sermon, of which the congregation seemed to take advantage, for the purpose of coughing, sneezing, &c.: there was so much. of this, that, it was pretty clear, colds are almost as general here as in England at the same season: and though Lyons is represented as being extremely favoured by mildness of air in the winter, we did not find it so ; but, on the contrary, the cold was intense, and the atmosphere very thick. Another prayer was read, from the formulary, after the sermon; then the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed. Next was sung the Canticle of Simeon, and three short benedictions concluded this part of the service. The minister next began the Communion service, by reading, from his book of prayers, an explanation of the institution. He then addressed a prayer to God, that the communicants might participate in faith, humility, and charity one sentence was extremely like part of our own supplication; "Vivement touchés de ce don précieux, nous nous consacrons entièrement à toi; nous te présentons nos corps et nos esprits en sacrifice vivant et saint." This was succeeded by two invitations to the people, to approach the holy table. The minister then quitted the pulpit, from which he had delivered the whole of his prayers, sermon, and exhortations, and stood at the table with another clergyman to assist him. He dispensed first to his colleague, and then to himself. After this the communicants, who consisted of two-thirds of a very large congregation, approached the table in two bodies, of which the men formed one, and the women the other. They passed the table in solemn order; and, as they passed, received the bread from one minister, and the cup from the other. The form of consecration and distribution was as follows: "The bread which we break, is the communion of the body of Jesus Christ our Lord."-" The cup of benediction, which we bless, is the communion of the blood of Jesus Christ our Lord." These words, or some sentences from Scrip 26 COMMUNION SERVICE. ture, were repeated to each person, as he received the bread or the wine. Nothing could be more touching, more imposing, than this simple ceremony, which appealed to the heart, and its best affections. During the whole time of the solemnity, the organ continued to play in its softest tones, and they harmonized with the voice of the ministers, and the calm devotion of the communicants, in a way which must be felt, to be rightly understood. CHAPTER II. Leave Lyons-Severe winter-Scenery in France-compared with landscapes in England French and English villages-Gaul and Britain on ancient medals-Hannibal's passage of the Alps Discovery of a silver votive Buckler-Pont de Beauvoisin-Letters examined-Enter Savoy-The river Guiers-Melancholy condition of the peasantry of Savoy-Sterne's Sentimental Journey Addison's remarks on several parts of Italy Tremendous pass-La Chaille-Les Echelles-Montagna della Grotta Charles Emanuel II.- The persecutor of the Vaudois-Enter the defile of Aiguebelle The river Arc- A French disputant-Description of the passage of the Alps— The various features of the mountain-Cultivation—Vines— View of sun-rise among the Alps-Cascades-Torrents— Masses of ice-Alpine sublimity-Fortress on the mountain Lans-le-bourg-Mount Cenis-Cross the mountain on a sledge -Description of the grand route over Mount Cenis-Attack of the French upon Mount Cenis-Hospice-Plain of St. Nicholas -Murat-Traineaus - Mountain prospects-View of Italy from the Alps-Hannibal-Polybius-Livy-Route of the Carthaginian army. ON Monday evening, December 30, we left Lyons, and commenced our journey to the Alps with all those feelings of expectation, which the name of these tremendous barriers of Italy is calculated to inspire. Livy's fine wintry descriptions, and Eustace's glorious picture of the eternal snows, and frightful passes, which we were going to encounter at the most trying period of an inclement winter, were fresh in our recollection; and we were delighted even with the unusual inhospitality of the season, because it would afford us a better opportunity of ascertaining how 28 FRENCH AND ENGLISH VILLAGE. far their accounts are correct. We had seen too little of the boasted landscapes of La Belle France, to regret that we were not travelling in the summer, or to be convinced that they are of such superior order of beauty, as to bear any comparison with the rich landscapes of merry England. When we are speaking of a mountainous region, it is at once understood what is meant by fine scenery; but perhaps it is not easy to agree upon the essentials which are to constitute beautiful scenery in a flat country. Most people, however, concur in filling up the prospect with groves and streams, gentle undulations of hill and dale, vineyards or hop-grounds, a gay intermixture of corn and meadow land, hedge rows and groups of timber trees, and frequent enclosures of various forms and sizes. But, to complete the picture in an Englishman's eyes, there must be the village spire and green, the snug cottage and neat garden, and the substantial farm-house; and he must be occasionally greeted with the sight of a park and mansion-house, and with that general aspect of cheerful comfort, which the residence of the nobility and gentry of a nation at the hospitable seats of their ancestors never fails to impart. Every tourist knows that ornamental gardening, the art of laying out grounds to advantage, and the taste for a country life, do not prevail among the French; that the châteaus of the noblesse are formal, and often melancholy-looking buildings; and that pretty hamlets or villages are rarely to be seen. I do not remember passing through one which had attractions sufficient to make me say, what I have so often thought in England, "Here I could pitch my tent; I could take up my abode in this sweet place, and nevér desire a lovelier spot." These observations are made with all due allowance for the season of the year in which I was travelling. 66 Where are the cattle upon a thousand hills?" is a question, which every body puts, who looks for flocks and herds to adorn the landscape. These are not to be seen in |