ROUTE 122.

GENEVA TO BALE, BY FREYBURG AND BERNE.

165 miles; first class, 28 60 francs; second, 20-20 francs; third, 14.70 francs.

N leaving Geneva the railway skirts the north shore of the lake, past numerous pleasant villas and gardens. Between Geneva and Lausanne the principal towns are Coppet, Nyon, Rolle, and Morges, for description of which see Route 114, page 461.

At Bussigny Junction (28) miles), the railway to Yverdun and Neuchatel joins the Geneva line. The train, however, generally goes on to LAUSANNE (39 miles) (see page 462).

After leaving the Lausanne Station, there is a fine view of the lake of Geneva, the valley of the Rhone, and the mountains beyond it, as we approach the tunnel through which we reach CHEXBRES-VEVAY (47 miles), the station for Vevay. Passing some other stations, we have a view of Mont Blanc, before reaching ROMONT (66 miles), beautifully situated on an eminence overlooking the Glane. The old Castle was built in the 10th century, by the kings of Burgundy. Beyond Romont, on the right, we see the nunnery of La-Fille-Dieu, backed by a range of mountains among which we may distinguish the Dent du Midi and the Moleson. We next reach FREYBURG 81 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. It was founded in 1175 by Berthold of Zahringen, and is the capital of the canton of the same name. It stands on a rocky eminence

surrounded by the Saarine. The picturesque situation of the town overhanging the river, the beautitiful suspension bridges, and quaint watchtowers not being visible from the railway, tourists should tarry here for a few hours. The banks of the river are united by four bridges, one of them being a suspension bridge of 906 ft. long, and 175 ft. above the stream. On the opposite side of the River Saarine is another suspension bridge, which spans the gorge of Gotteron. It is about 700 ft. long, and 284 ft. above the valley beneath. There are some fine churches, the most remarkable being the Cathedral of St Nicholas, a handsome Gothic structure of the 15th century, containing an organ which has 7,800 pipes, and 67 stops, and is considered one of the finest instruments in Europe. Performances on the organ every evening (except Saturdays and the eve of holidays) from 8 to 9. Tickets, which cost one franc each, may be had at the hotels. The tower of the church is 386 ft. high, and is distinguished for the delicacy and elegance of its architecture. Its portal has some curious reliefs emblematical of the Last Judgment, and Heaven and Hell. Other objects of interest in the town are the Byzantine Church, in the form of a rotunda, with a dome; the Capuchin Church, with a "Descent from the Cross," by Annibale Caracci; the Church of the Barefoot Monks, a large and handsome building; the Jesuit Church; the Hotel de Ville, a remarkable old building, erected on the site of the palace of the ancient dukes of Zahringen, the founders of Berne; the Jesuit College and the Lyceum. In the principal square is a lime tree said to have been planted in 1476, on the day of the battle of Morat.

The street called Court Chemin, leading from the river to the upper town, is built on the face of the rock, and the roofs of some of its houses serve as pavement for the street above it. The inhabitants are curiously divided in respect of language, those of the upper town speaking French, and those of the lower town German. On leaving Freyburg, we pass by the old walls of the town, and cross the Saarine over a viaduct 260 ft. high, and about 1,100 ft. long. We pass several places of no interest, and reach

BERNE (98 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). ARRIVAL Omnibuses and porters from the hotels meet the trains. Cab hire-One horse, quarter of an hour, one or two persons, 80 cents. ; three or four persons, 1 franc 20 cents, each additional quarter of an hour, 40 and 60 cents.

ENGLISH CHURCH services all the year in the chapel of the Burgerspital. Services, 10.30

a.m. and 4.30 p.m.

The capital of Switzerland is situated on a lofty promontory 1,700 ft. above the sea, formed by the winding Aar, which surrounds it on three sides, and is crossed by two stone bridges. It is one of the most regularly built towns in Europe, and is the finest in Switzerland. Many of the houses are massive structures, resting upon arcades, which are lined with shops, and furnish covered walks on both sides of the street, the latter being adorned with numerous fountains. The environs afford fine promenades, and from the platform on which the CATHEDRAL stands, the view of the Bernese Alps is very fine. Six of the most celebrated peaks are in view upon clear days. On the east is the Wetterhorn, next are

the Schreckhorn, the FinsterAarhorn, the Eiger, the Monch, the Jungfrau, the Gletscherhorn, the Mittaghorn, and the Blumlis Alp.

The principal public buildings are the Cathedral, a fine Gothic structure, dating from 1457, and containing some interesting tablets and relics; on the principal portal are several sculptured groups, one of which represents the Last Judgment, and another the Wise and Foolish Virgins; the Hall of the Federal Council, Hotel de Ville, the Mint, the Bank, and the University. The public library, founded at the epoch of the Reformation, contains upwards of 50,000 vols. The muscum possesses an interesting collection. Berne has also an observatory and a botanical garden, and is celebrated for the number and excellence of its charitable institutions.

The Bear, of whose name the word Berne is the German equivalent, is in especial favour in this city, which has its effigy for its arms; and his figure is perpetually recurring to the eye. The Bears-ditch, near the Aarburg Gate, is a menagerie of these animals, which is maintained at the public charge. The French took away the bears to Paris, and their restoration was one of the first cares of the citizens upon the return of peace. On a fountain in the Street of Justice, the canton is represented in a militant attitude by the effigy of a bear in armour, with sword, belt, and banner. Another fountain has a bear attending a crossbowman as his squire.

Another curious object is the clock in the Zeitglockenthurm, or clock-tower, which stands between two other watch-towers in the Justice Street. Just as the hour is about to strike, a wooden figure of Chanticleer makes his

appearance, and crows twice. Another puppet strikes the hour on a bell, and forthwith a number of bears emerge from the interior of the clock, and pay their duty to an enthroned figure, who at every stroke opens his mouth and inclines his sceptre. The music boxes so conspicuously offered for sale at Berne are made by the great makers at Geneva, where they may be had at cheaper prices.

Leaving Berne we cross the Aar, and presently reach BURGDORF, a town of about 3,500 inhabitants, with large well-built houses, hospital, schools, and orphan asylum. The public walks are finely kept. The celebrated teacher, Pestalozzi, first established his school here. Passing HERZOGENBUCHSEE, we reach OLTEN (124 miles). For the remainder of the journey to BALE, see Route 103.

the Orbe or Thiele. It occupies the site of the Roman town of Ebrodunum. The Castle dates from the 12th century. It was, at one time, used as a college by Pestalozzi. Crossing the river, we skirt the lake to the village of GRANDSON. Its ancient Castle is now a snuff manufactory. The church is of the 10th century. Passing several unimportant places, we reach

NEUCHATEL (83 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This town is situated on a steep slope above the shore of the lake to which it gives its name, and traversed by the Seyon, which falls into the lake immediately below. The site of the town, which is well built, is excellent: below it is the lake; around are rich fields and vineyards, dotted over with numerous villas, and behind it are the magnificent precipices of the Jura. The principal buildings of interest are the Castle, an ancient structure, originally the residence of the Princes of Neuchatel, and the old Gothic church, built in the 12th century, containing several curious ancient monuments; the Hotel de Ville, a large building, with a Grecian portico, and an interesting mu late Professor Agassiz. seum, made celebrated by the

The Lake of Neuchatel is 25 miles in its greatest length, with an average breadth of 4 miles. The scenery, in many places, is very fine.

Leaving Neuchatel, we keep along the shore of the lake to St Blaize, and, passing the Castle of Thirle, reach Landeron, situated at the point of influx of the Thiele into the Lake of Bienne. We next reach

NEUVEVILLE (Hotel: Faucon), on the border of the lake, beneath the Chasseral, which rises to a height of nearly 5,300 ft.

The LAKE OF BIENNE, or Bieler

See, is 10 miles long by 3 broad. Its scenery is not remarkable, and it owes its chief interest to the lle St Pierre, for some months the residence of Rousseau. His room is still shown in a little house on the island. The garret above it was his place of refuge from the prying curiosity of visitors. He was accustomed to remark, "Je ne suis pas ici dans une menagerie.' Continuing along the shore we pass Nydau with its imposing Castle, and reach

BIENNE (102 miles) (Hotels: Biel erhof, Couronne). It is situated on the lower slopes of the Jura, at the entrance of the valley of the Suze, and is surrounded by vineyards. The old walls, surmounted with watch-towers, are still in existence. There are several avenues, affording agreeably sheltered promenades. The Chasseral,4,936 ft. above the sea, can be ascended conveniently from Bienne. The view from the summit is magnificent. [For route Bienne to Bale by the Val Moutiers, see Route 116.]

SOLEURE (117 miles) (Hotel: Couronne). It is situated at the base of the Jura, on the Aar, which divides it into two unequal parts, connected by two bridges, one of which is only available for foot-passengers. In the 17th century, this town was surrounded by strong walls, which were removed by order of the Council in 1835. The Cathedral of St Ours (St Ursus), completed in 1772, is approached by a flight of 23 steps, in front of which are two fountains, representing Moses striking the rock, and Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece. The facade is adorned with 12 Corinthian columns, surmounted by statues. The interior measures about 195 ft. in length by 135 in width. It contains several paintings and bas-reliefs, some curious missals, and a good organ. From

the summit of the tower (180 ft. nigh) a fine view is obtained. The church of the Professors, built in 1689, has a painting of Christ, attributed to Holbein. The ClockTower in the market-place is reputed to have been built about A.D. 500. It was probably constructed under the Burgundian dynasty. It is square-built, without windows, and rises to a height of nearly 80 ft. A Latin inscription on it pronounces Soleure to be the most ancient city in the north-west of Europe, with the exception of Treves.

The Arsenal contains a good collection of arms and armour, and several banners taken in various battles, one of them bearing a portrait of Charles the Bold. The Museum contains a fine collection of fossils from the Jura and the Alps. The Hotel de Ville (Rathhaus) is an ancient building with numerous towers, and is adorned with Roman inscriptions, bas-reliefs, and busts. The house is shown in which Kosciusko died. His heart was interred in the cemetery of Zuchwyl, about a mile distant. His other remains were removed to Cracow. The tomb bears the inscription, "Viscera Thaddei Kosciusko."

The Weissenstein (White Rock) is seen at a little distance from Soleure. On the way to it we pass the Hermitage of St Verena, a grotto situated in a delightful valley, surrounded with beautiful trees.

HERZOGENBUCHSEE (126 miles). For the remainder of the journey see Route 122.