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tional Monument (see above). The descent to Rudesheim does not occupy more than half an hour. The road leads through the famous vineyards of Rudesheim.] Leaving Rudesheim we see, on our left, upon a hill 350 feet above the river, the CHATEAU OF JOHANNISBERG. The hill is completely covered with vines. Since 1813 this estate has belonged to the Metternichs. The château is shown to visitors, but it contains nothing of interest. The chapel contains a monument erected by Prince Metternich to the memory of his tutor, the historian Vogt. The terrace in front of the chateau affords a magnificent view. According to the old chronicles, Ruthard, Archbishop of Mayence, founded a priory on the spot where the château now stands in 1567, and twenty years later a monastery. It was burned in 1552. During the Thirty Years' War the Swedes destroyed what the flames had left standing. In 1716 the Abbot of Fulda purchased the estate, and having built a château, planted the ground with vines. The vineyards occupy a little less than seventy acres. The wine is best grown close to the château, partly over the cellars.

Opposite Johannisberg the Rhine attains its greatest width, and presents the appearance of a lake rather than of a river.

We now approach the islands of Rheinau, Langwertheran, and Sandau. To these islands Charlemagne used to resort for the purpose of fishing while he resided at INGELHEIM, on the right bank of the Rhine, opposite the island (Rheinau). According to some historians he was born at Ingelheim. He exhibited great attachment to it, and built a palace there about 774, among the materials of which were a hundred columns of marble

and porphyry which he took from Roman palaces, and some rich mosaics which were sent to himn from Ravenna by Pope Adrian. The place where the palace stood is now occupied by dwellings, and by a Jewish burying ground. The last emperor who inhabited it was Charles IV. Scarcely any traces of it remain.

Upon one of the islands, probably Sandau, Louis le Debonnaire sought refuge from his sons who had revolted against him, and here he ended his miserable life (June 840).

As we approach Biebrich we see, on the left, ELTVILLE, a pretty village, the chief town of the Rheingau. It was once the residence of the Bishops of Mayence. In the upper part of the town are the ruins of a castle built by Baudoin, Archbishop of Trèves, in 1330. On the bank of the river are many fine country houses and pretty villages, which present a variety of pleasant views extending to the Taunus mountains. The country over which the view extends is the famous RHEINGAU, the most fertile and productive region of Germany.

Nearing Mayence we stop at BIEBRICH. Its most prominent object is the summer palace of the Duke of Nassau, on the bank of the river. Adjoining it is an extensive and beautiful park. (Passengers for Wiesbaden may disembark here. Train to Wiesbaden in 10 minutes) (see p. 538).

The most interesting part of the Rhine is that between Mayence and Bonn. The boat which leaves Mayence at 12 reaches Bonn before dark in summer, but it is best to take the swift boat, which reaches Cologne at 44. Arriving at Bonn by this boat at 34 p. m., one would have time to see that town and reach Cologne the same evening by train.

MAYENCE (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This town is the Moguntiacum of the Romans. It is the chief town of the Grand Duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt, but has been garrisoned by Prussia since 1866. It is situated on the left bank of the Rhine, opposite the mouth of the Main. The Cathe dral, built in 978, has been many times destroyed by fire, and rebuilt on an enlarged scale, during the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, but it suffered from the bombardment of the town by the Prussians in 1793, and from being converted into a magazine by the French in 1813. It is about 360 ft. long by 142 ft. wide, and has six towers, of which the round tower on the east side merits particular attention. At the northern entrance are two fine bronze doors. The interior has 56 pillars supporting the nave, fine frescoes, and painted windows, and many tombs of the Archbishops and Electors of Mayence. A slab is shown which formed part of the tomb of Fastrade, third wife of Charlemagne. The principal tower is 390 ft. high: from the gallery there is a fine view.

In the open space near the Théâtre is a bronze statue of Gutemberg, the inventor of printing, by Thorwaldsen, erected in 1837. The house in which Gutemberg was born is shown.

The fountain in the Cattle Market-Place is alleged to have been brought from the Palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim. From the terrace of the Faubourg of Kastrich a good view may be obtained.

The Grosse Bleiche is the principal street. It contains the palace of the commandant, the new foun tain, and the church of St Peter.

The ancient Palace of the Elector is now the Museum. It contains a collection of upwards of

2,000 plaster casts; a collection of antiquities; a cabinet of me dals; a library; a picture gallery; a museum of natural history, &c.

In front of the Electoral palace is the ancient Palace of the Teutonic Order, now the Palace of the Grand Duke, which communicates, by a gallery, with the arsenal. The Church of St Stephen (built in 1318, restored since 1857) is composed of three naves of the same height; from the gallery of the tower, 310 ft. above the Rhine, there is a magnificent panoramic view. The interior contains several pictures and sculptures of merit. The cemetery is well laid out, and contains the tombs of many celebrated persons, together with a monument erected to the soldiers of Napoleon's army. Near the town on the south-east is the former summer palace of the Electors called the Favourite, from which was published, in 1792, the famous manifesto of the Duke of Brunswick. The New Promenade called Neue Anlage, affords a grand view of the Rhine and the opposite mountains.

Across the Rhine, on the point formed by the entrance of the Main, called Mainspitze, is a fort which commands both rivers; near it are the remains of a bastion called Gustavsburg, built by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden. Here the new railway bridge crosses the river. It is in two parts-one crossing the river itself, the other the low land on the banks, which is liable, at times, to be flooded. The entire length of this bridge is about 1,400 yards.

A bridge of boats extends from Mayence to CASTEL, a fortified town. It contains extensive barracks and the bastions of Petersau and Ingelsau, the forts called Grand Duke of Hesse and Mon

tebello, and the fort on the Main

spitze.

Mayence was a Roman encampment as early as B.C. 38. The town owes its origin to Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus, who raised, A.D. 14, a fort opposite the mouth of the Main. There are numerous Roman remains still existing. In the citadel is a tower of stone called the Eichelstein, upwards of 40 ft. high, the remains of a monument to Drusus. Amongst other vestiges of the Roman occupation are remains of a reservoir, the ruins of an aqueduct, and several tumuli.

St Boniface (who died in 755) was the first Archbishop of Mayence. In the Middle Ages this town controlled the powerful league of the Rhenish towns. After 1462 it ceased to be a free town, and became the seat of the Archbishop Electors. It was occupied by the French in 1792; retaken by the Prussians the next year; subsequently ceded to the French by the treaty of Campo Formio, and made over to the Grand Duke of Hesse Darmstadt in 1814.

ROUTE 139.

MAYENCE TO FRANKFORT-
ON-THE-MAIN AND
WIESBADEN.

Fares to Frankfort-1st class, 2.95 marks; 2nd class, 1.95 marks.

ROM Mayence to Frankfort there are two routes. One follows the south bank of the Main, crossing the Rhine by a fine bridge near its junction with the former river. The other route is by steamer across the Rhine to Castel, thence along the north bank of the Main, and passing Hocheim, where are the celebrated vineyards of the Duke of Nassau.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN (21 miles). (For description see page 519.)

From Castel, opposite Mayence, WIESBADEN (5 miles) is reached by railway through Mosbach (3 miles). Close to this place is Biebrich, situated on the Rhine (Hotel: Rheinischer Hof), (see Route 138). The small castle of Mossbach, on an artificial piece of water, contains some Roman antiquities.

WIESBADEN (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.")

Cabs-From the station to the town, one or two persons, 80 pf.; three or four persons, 1 m. In the town, the course-one horse, one or two persons, 60 pf.; three or four persons, 80 pf.; two horses, 90 pf., and 1 m. 10 pf. By time, one horse, 2 m.; two horses, 3 m., for one or four per

sons.

Since the suppression of gambling, persons visiting the Kurhaus pay a tax. Tickets for one day are issued at 50 pf. each. A yearly ticket costs, for one person, 20 m.; for a family of two persons, 30 m.; and 3 m. for each additional person. For six weeks, one person, 10 m.; two persons, 15 m.; and 3 m. each additional person. Concerts three times a day.

ENGLISH CHURCH Service every Sunday at 11 A.M. and 3.30 P.M. (in summer 7 P.M.).

This is a beautiful town, celebrated for its baths, which attract a great concourse of visitors in the season (from June to September). The Kursaal is the chief centre of attraction. It has fine saloons. Music in the grounds near the Kursaal several times a day. The gambling rooms on the right of the grand saloon were closed by law at the end of 1872. There are also spacious reading and refreshment rooms. Wiesbaden has fourteen hot springs, of which the principal is the Kochbrunnen (boiling spring), with a temperature of 156° Fahr. It is at the end of the arcade called the Trinkhalle. The Romans called these springs Fontes Mattiaci. The Romerberg is a Roman fort on the north-west of the town. At the end of the Heidenberg Strasse is a fragment of a Roman wall 650 ft. in length, 10 ft. high, and 9 thick, called the Heidenmauer (Heathen's Wall). Charlemagne used to visit the baths, and built a palace here. The Museum, in the Wilhelm's Strasse, contains a library of 60,000 volumes and some valuable manuscripts; also a Museum of Antiquities, including some Roman remains; and a small collection of paintings. There is a spacious Theatre, at which the performances begin at 6.30 p.m.

On a hill called the Neroberg,

a few miles from the town, is a beautiful Russian chapel, built by the Duke of Nassau. It contains the tomb of his first wife, who was a Russian princess.

Wiesbaden was the capital of the Duchy of Nassau before 1866. It now belongs to Prussia.

ROUTE 140.

MAYENCE TO MANNHEIM AND HEIDELBERG BY WORMS.

Fares to Mannheim-1st class, 5.90 m.; 2nd, 3.90 m.; 3rd, 2.54 m.

P

ASSING through an uninteresting region along the east bank of the Rhine, abounding in vineyards, we pass Laubenheim, Bodenheim, and Nierstein, all of which give their names to well-known wines of the second class, and reach OPPENHEIM (12 miles). On a hill north-west of the town, is seen the Church of St Catherine, a handsome Gothic edifice of the twelfth century. Above it are the ruins of the Castle of Landskrone, which dates from the twelfth century. Quitting the borders of the river, we pass Gernsheim, Guntersblum, and several other unimportant stations, and arrive at WORMS (28 miles) (Hotel: Alter Kaiser).

Just before reaching Worms, we see the Gothic Church of Our Lady, built in the fifteenth century, and recently restored. It is situated in the vineyard which produces the well-known Liebfraumilch wine.

Worms is a walled town, with massive towers, and seven gates.

The DOM, or Cathedral, an edifice of the twelfth century, partly in the Gothic, and partly in the Byzantine style, has two towers at each end, and a fine portal with elaborate sculptures. The interior has been restored.

North of the Dom are the remains of the Bischofshof, consist ing of a few stone walls. In it was held, in 1521, the celebrated Diet of Worms, at which Luther appeared before Charles V.

A fine bronze statue of the great Reformer was erected here in 1868.

St Paul's Church is interesting for the beauty of its west end and choir, dating from the eleventh century.

Worms is one of the oldest cities in Germany, and is the scene of the Niebelungen Lied. It was occupied by the Romans, and was the frequent residence of Charlemagne. Its population once reached 60,000. It was almost wholly destroyed by the

with fountains. Those most worthy of notice, are the Planken, and the Schiller Platz; the latter containing statues of Schiller, Dalberg, and Iffland.

The Palace is a huge quadrangular stone building, containing a gallery of paintings, collection of natural history, and a fine Theatre.

The gardens behind it terminate in a terrace, which overlooks the Rhine. Its fortifications were destroyed after the peace of Luneville, and their place is now occupied by gardens.

From Mannheim to Heidelberg is seven miles; time, 29 minutes. For description of Heidelberg, see page 566.

ROUTE 141.

French in the Thirty Years' War, MAYENCE TO STRASBURG

and has never recovered its former prosperity. Part of the space formerly occupied by the city is now covered with gardens.

A few miles above Worms, we leave the territory of Darmstadt, and enter the Grand Duchy of Baden.

Frankenthal (35 miles) is a prosperous town. A canal connects it with the Rhine, three miles distant. LUDWIGSHAFEN (42 miles) is a flourishing town, connected with Mannheim by a fine iron bridge.

MANNHEIM (Hotel: Pfälzer Hof) is situated on the right bank of the Rhine, between it and the Neckar. It is regularly built, with twelve streets running parallel to each other from north to south, and ten crossing them at right angles. There are fourteen public squares, nearly all of which are adorned

BY WORMS AND SPIRES.

120 miles; 4 hours. Fares, 1st, 18 m. 50; 2nd, 12.90.

HE route as far as Ludwigshafen is described in Route 140, above. Leaving Ludwigshafen, we pass two or three small stations before reaching (54 miles from Mayence)

SPIRES (Hotels Wittelsbacherhof, Pfalzer Hof). It is situated at the confluence of the Spire with the Rhine. It is surrounded with walls, and was a Roman station a residence of the German Emperors, and the seat of the Germanic Diet. It once contained a

population of 27,000. Its prosperity began to decline in the 17th century. The greatest blow upon it was inflicted by Louis XIV., who, having taken posses

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