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tion 20,000, situated on the Segre. The Old Cathedral, dating from the 13th century, is a magnificent specimen of Byzantine Gothic architecture. It was converted into a fortress by the French in 1707, and it has not since been used for religious services. The New Cathedral, built in the reign of Charles III. is a Corinthian structure. The church of San Lorenzo has some good tracery. The church of San Juan is a fine building. Passing several places of no note, we reach SARAGOSSA (228 miles). For a description of this city, and of the remainder of the journey to Madrid, see Route 180.

ROUTE 191.

BARCELONA TO GERONA.

The coast-route is much the more agreeable of the two.

GERONA (65 miles), (Hotels: Casa de Posta, de la Estrella), population 15,200. This is an ancient Moorish city. The Cathedral was originally founded by Charlemagne in 786, and subsequently rebuilt in the 11th century. Considerable additions were made in the 14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. The altar and retable are of silver, and there are some paintings and enamels. The nave is constructed with a single vault, its width is 71 feet.

The Church of San Pedro and the Collegiate Church of San Feliu are interesting structures.

The railway to Perpignan was completed in January, 1878. The distance from Gorona to Perpignan is 48 miles. We pass the strongly fortified town of FIGUERAS, Population 7,500. The Castillo de San Fernando, a fortress. of great strength contains magazines, and barracks for 15,000 men

Connecting with the new line and 500 horses. The French rail(1878) to Perpignan.

65 miles; first class, 50r.; second, 40r.; third, 27r. 68c.

are

HERE are two routes, one by the coast, the other inland. By the former we pass Mataro (17 miles), a busy town of 18,000 inhabitants, in the neighbourhood of which some much frequented mineral springs; and Arenys (23 miles), a town of 4,500 inhabitants, possessing dockyards, manufactories of lace, linen, and soap, and a training school for the merchant service; in the neighbourhood of this place also there are mineral springs which are held in great estimation. By the latter route the most important place passed is Granollers (18 miles), population 4,500, a manufacturing town.

way is reached at Porte Vendres, whence to Perpignan is half-anhour's ride.

PERPIGNAN (Hotels: Grand, de l'Europe des Ambassadeurs), population 26,000. It is situated on the right bank of the Tet, in the plain of Roussillon. The vineyards are numerous, and here the celebrated wine of the name is produced. There is a magnificent view from the Citadel. The Cathedral was founded in 1320. It possesses no features of interest. The remains of an older cathedral called St Jean le Vieux, are close by. The Loge, or Bourse (in Spanish Lonja), has a curious Moorish and Gothic cloister, and a highly decorated facade. The Promenades in the environs are delightful. Trains several timesa day continue on to Cette, Narbonne, and all points in France.

ROUTE 192.

MADRID TO LISBON.

412 miles. Time, 21 hours.
Atocha station.

Fares, 1st class, 15820 reis: 2d class, 11640 reis; 3d class, 8200 reis.

HE most direct route is by Talavera de la Regna. The railway passes through an uninteresting country. TALAVERA DE LA REGNA (81 miles) is charmingly situated on the Tagus, and contains several ancient churches and many pleasant alamedas. The celebrated battle between the French and the allies was fought here in 1809. Plascensia (141 miles). The town itself is 6 miles from the station, to which there is a branch railway. From Plascensia a pleasant excursion can be made to the monastery of Yuste, where Charles V. retired on his abdication, and where he died in 1558. Valencia de Alcantara, the frontier town of Portugal; buffet; Custom House examination. At Abrantes is the church of St Francesia, one of the finest in Portugal. Napoleon's General Junot took his title from this place. We pass several places which deserve no particular mention before reaching

LISBON (Hotels: Braganza, Grand Hotel Central), population 340,000.

LISBON, in Portuguese Lisboa, is the capital of Portugal, and one of the finest cities in Europe. It is admirably situated on the right bank of the Tagus, and, as seen from the river, presents a magnificent appearance.

The city is divided into four quarters or bairros; the old city, Alfama, which escaped the earthquake; Rocio, the modern city;

Alcantara, and Bairro Alto. These districts are divided into parishes.

The Praça do Commercio is the most remarkable of the numerous squares of Lisbon; it is also called the Esplanade of the Palace (Terreiro do Paco), and the English have named it Black Horse Square, after the equestrian statue of Joseph I. in the centre. The most important public edifices are in this square, including the Custom House, Bourse, India House, &c.

The streets Do Ouro, Da Prata, and Augusta, which abut on this square, are large, straight, and formed of fine uniform houses.

The oldest promenade of the capital is the Passeio Publico. It is planted with fine trees, and ornamented with marble basins of flowers. Near this place is the principal market, called Figuiera. The Passeio San Pedro d'Alcantara, and Passeio da Estrella are more agreeable promenades than the Passieo Publico, and commands fine views.

The Cathedral is a mixture of old Gothic and modern architecture. The facade and the apsis, left standing after the earthquake of 1755, make one regret that the other portions of the edifice have not been rebuilt in the same style. The interior is very ornamental.

The church of San Roque contains riches and works of art in profusion. Each chapel possesses sufficient to enrich a large church. The Chapel Royal of St John the Baptist is full of pictures, is paved with mosaics, and the altar is of amethyst, lapis lazuli and massive silver, with columns in cornelian and lapis lazuli.

The Church of the Sacred Heart, near the Convent of the Carmelites of Estrella, is a splendid construction in white marble.

It is

a reduced copy of St Peter's at Rome. In the choir is the monument of the founder, the Queen Dona Maria I.

The royal family occupy the two palaces of Necessidades and Ajuda. The former was commenced in 1473, by Don Juan V. It is composed of the palace and the convent which that prince built close by. This residence has been since greatly embellished. It is surrounded by splendid gardens, and affords a fine view of the roadstead. It contains many interesting works of art.

The Palace of Ajuda, which the King and Queen mostly inhabit, is built on the summit of a hill. It was constructed by King Juan VI., and is an imposing edifice. The style of architecture being pure Greek, contrasts strangely with that of the Moorish and Gothic edifices by which it is surrounded. The view from this palace embraces the Tagus, the bay, and the whole panorama of Lisbon.

There is a fine aqueduct, by which the city is supplied with water, worthy of comparison, for its beauty and solidity, with the most remarkable works of the Romans. It took 19 years to construct, from 1713 to 1732.

The principal establishments are: the Academy of the Fine Arts, the Royal Conservatory of Music, a School of Surgery, a Polytechnic School, Academy of Sciences, School of Naval Architecture, and the National Library, containing 150,000 volumes and 10,000 manuscripts. Amongst the benevolent establishments are the Santa Casa da Misericordia, for orphans and foundlings; the Casa Pia, an orphan school established in the convent of Belem; and institutions for the deaf and dumb and the blind.

The theatres are six in number:

San Carlos, for Italian Opera; the theatre of Dona Maria, devoted to the legitimate drama; that of Don Fernando, where the plays are performed sometimes in French, and sometimes in Portuguese; and the Gymnase, a vaudeville theatre. The small theatres are those of Rua dos Condes and Salitre. There are also two circuses, for equestrian exercises and bull-fights.

The foundation of Lisbon is said to date from the time of Ulysses. It was occupied by the Romans, but without acquiring any importance.

On the 1st November, 1755, the terrible earthquake took place, which left a portion of this beautiful capital a mass of ruins, piled upon thousands of dead bodies. An extensive fire completed the disaster; it lasted three days, and destroyed almost all that the earthquake had spared. The French army entered Lisbon in 1807. In 1808 the Duke of Wellington retook it from the French.

CINTRA. Fifteen miles northwest of Lisbon is the picturesquely situated town of Ĉintra. It stands on the declivity of the Sierra de Cintra, and is surrounded with fine country residences. The ancient royal palace, once occupied by the Moorish Kings, is a strange mixture of Moorish and Christian architecture. A charming view of the town and of the sea may be had from the top of a hill crowned with the ruins of a Moorish Castle. On another hill top stands La Penna, once a convent, now a royal residence. In the neighbourhood is a convent called the Cork Convent, the cells being cut in the rock and lined with cork to prevent dampness.

The celebrated Convention be tween the French and English in 1808, by which the former agreed to evacuate Portugal, was con

cluded here. Lord Byron wrote enthusiastically of the beauties of Cintra, which he called "a new Eden."

ROUTE 192a.

MADRID TO LISBON.

Distance, 674 miles; first class, 353r. 40c.; second, 269r. 41c.

For description of the route
Manzanares (123

as far as
miles), see Route 186.

V

E proceed for some distance through places of no especial interest, and reach CIUDAD REAL (164 miles). (Hotel Miracielo). Here are a handsome church, a large hospital, and a curious Moorish gateway, called Puerta del Toledo.

After leaving Ciudad Real we pass several places of no interest, gradually approaching a region abounding in quicksilver mines.

ALMADEN (236 miles), population 9,200. All the importance of this town consists in its quicksilver mines, the richest and most celebrated of the kind in Europe.

Belalacasar (249 miles), population 3000. A very ancient fortified town. Its celebrated fortress was formerly one of the grandest in Spain. There are still some interesting remains.

Castuera (277 miles), population 6,200. Chief town of a vast territory which formed, in the ancient province of Estremadura, a district called La Serena, which was defended by a line of fortresses, named the seven forts of La Serena.

Magacela (295 miles). One of the seven fortified places of La

Serena. The ruins of the fort occupy the summit of a hill rising above the town.

MERIDA (337 miles), (Hotels: de Leon, de Badajos), population 6000. This place is interesting from the numerous and interesting Roman remains which are to be seen in the town and its neighbourhood, and which testify to its ancient magnificence. Of these the most interesting are the splendid Bridge of 81 arches, which crosses the Guadiana; another bridge across the Albar Brogras; the remains of a magnificent Aqueduct; the Triumphal Arch of Trajan, which the inhabitants have designated that of St James; the ruins of the Temple of Mars, which was a splendid edifice in white marble; the Temple of Diana, in the Colonnade of which a grandee of Spain has built a palace; the Circus Maximus; a Theatre; also considerable vestiges of ramparts, towers, and monumental gates. Passing, among other places, Talavera, the scene of one of the principal battles during the Peninsular War, we reach

BADAJOS (374 miles), (Hotels: Las tres Nacianes, Lis Caballeros), population 22,899. The town is entered by the beautiful bridge of Guadiana, and by the gate of La Trinidad. The bridge is formed of 28 arches, and was built in 1596.

Badajos is the capital of a province, and residence of the captain-general of Estremadura. The houses are well built, generally elegant, the painted facades giving them an agreeable aspect.

The Plaza de la Constitucian, also named the Campo de San Juan, is a vast square, on which is built the Cathedral, the theatre, the cafés, the town-hall, and in the middle is a promenade or Salon, planted with trees, a place of fashionable resort.

The Cathedral is a solid edifice, having the appearance of a fortress rather than of a church, constructed with the view of affording an asylum to the inhabitants, in case of attack. It contains two fine statues of St John the Baptist and Nôtre Dame de la Conception, a rich tomb of the archbishop Marin del Rodezno, a choir with a Silleria artistically sculptured.

Badajos is the native place of the celebrated navigator, Vasco Nunez of Balboa, and of the painter Morales, surnamed the Divine. The latter died in a state of poverty, in 1586, 75 years of age. This place is famous in the annals of England for the heroism of the British troops at the siege in April 1812.

From Badajos to Lisbon, 176 miles; 1st class, 5,340 reis; 2nd, 4,150 reis. (180 reis equal 10d. or 20 cents.)

FRONTERA (379 miles). The Spanish frontier is here crossed, and passports and luggage are examined.

ELVAS (10 miles), population 12,200. This is the strongest city of the kingdom. Forts Lippe and Santa-Lucia are said to be impregnable. Here is a fine Roman aqueduct, constructed of three tiers of arches, and presenting a picturesque appearance. The Gothic cathedral contains some fine stained glass.

Portalegre (41 miles), population, 6,400. The see of a bishop. Here are several cloth manufactories, and in the environs some considerable marole quarries.

Crato (45 miles). This place was formerly the head-quarters of the order of the Knights of Malta, the ruins of whose castle still exist. Passing some other places of no note, we reach

ABRANTES (92 miles), a strongly fortified town. It played an important part in Napoleon's ex

pedition against Portugal in 1809-10.

SANTAREM (128 miles), (Hotel: de Felicia), population 8,000. It contains some curious remains of Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages. We pass several places which deserve no particufar mention before reaching Lisbon (see page 777).

ROUTE 193.

LISBON TO OPORTO.

207 miles; first class, 6,000 reis; second, 4,670 reis (10 hours).

HOMAR (9 miles). With a beautiful convent, formerly the head-quarters of the Order of Christ, and said to be the most remarkable in Portugal after that of Batalha.

Pombal (105 miles), population 4,500. Some traces of Saracenic architecture, an ancient chapel of the Templars, ruins of an old Roman castle, restored in the Moorish style. The town is surrounded with fertile and wellcultivated lands.

Coimbra (135 miles), population 16,000. The third city of the kingdom, chief place of the province of Bas and Beira, see of a bishop. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on a hill which overlooks the beautiful valley of the Mondego.

The principal places worth visiting are the old Cathedral, a true model of the Moorish style; the new Cathedral, the church of St Croix, which contains the tombs of the two first Portuguese kings, Alphonse and Sancho; the convent of Santa Clara, and the monastery of St Francis, and the fine aqueduct which supplies the city.

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