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single shaft of red granite upwards of 80 ft. high, and computed to weigh nearly 400 tons, placed on a pedestal composed of an enormous block of the same red granite, about 25 ft. square, and surmounted by a capital formed of Turkish cannon, above which the statue of an angel, 14 ft. high, and of a cross 7 ft. high are placed. The height of the whole is 150 ft.

The SUMMER GARDENS are the favourite promenade of the inhabitants of St Petersburg. They are one mile long by half a mile in breadth, and are handsomely wooded and ornamented with statues, &c. In these gardens, in the Summer Palace in which Peter the Great resided, a few articles of furniture used by him are still preserved.

St Petersburg, having been founded by Peter the Great in the beginning of the 18th century, is entirely modern, and has nothing so remarkable in its history as the rapidity with which, in spite of natural disadvantages, it has advanced to its present magnitude and splendour. Instead of being situated in the heart of a beautiful and fertile district, the whole country around, when not forest or swamp, consists chiefly of moorland waste, or of poor arable land.

Peter the Great, however, was not the man to be daunted by ordinary difficulties. Even in his reign St Petersburg not only received the name, but assumed the appearance of a great capital. Its progress was not very rapid under his immediate successors, who were disposed to give Moscow the preference; but his later descendants, counting it an honour to follow in his steps, have carried on their embellishments on a scale of almost unexampled magnificence, and none of the oldest and proudest

of European cities have much to boast of when brought into comparison with St Petersburg.

ST PETERSBURG TO PETERHOF.

About 18 miles. First class 85 c.; second, 70 c.; third, 35 c.

The situation of Peterhof is

remarkably beautiful. The terrace commands a fine view of St Petersburg and Cronstadt in the distance, while directly below are the grounds laid out with shady groves, statues, and ornamental pieces of water. The Palace, built by Peter the Great, after the designs of Leblond, comprises spacious and beautiful chambers, adorned with a profusion of marbles and malachites, and possessing a collection of 368 portraits of Russian girls in their national costume, painted for Catherine II The gardens and park contain numerous fountains; one of them representing a colossal Samson, throws a jet of upwards of 80 ft.; others form various devices, in marble and gilt bronze; the smaller fountains play every day during the residence of the court. In the gardens are the buildings styled Marly and Mont Plaisir (in which Peter the Great died), the Hermitage, celebrated for its dining-room, the table in which is served without the presence of any domestic; and the cottage of the Empress Catherine, very plain without, but beautifully decorated internally. the rare occasions, when fêtes are held, which extend over three days, the fountains are illuminated. Some distance from Peterhoff are situated, Ropscha, another imperial residence; Znameusky, belonging to the Grand Duke Nicholas; Michailofsky, the seat of the Grand Duke Michael; and the Castle of Narischine.

On

ST PETERSBURG TO CRONSTADT.

The distance is about 20 miles. Cronstadt is a fortified town of 48,000 inhabitants, and a garrison of 15,000 troops, situated on the island of Kottlin, and forming the port and suburb of St Peters burg. It was founded by Peter the Great, and considerably enlarged and strengthened by the Emperor Nicholas. The fortifications are of brick, faced with granite. The arsenals and docks are very spacious; the rade, the principal station of the Russian fleet, can accommodate 35 vessels. The quays are magnificent, and are constructed of solid granite. Vessels of very great tonnage usually disembark part of their cargo at Cronstadt before entering the Neva to proceed to St Petersburg.

ROUTE 195.

ST PETERSBURG TO
MOSCOW.

400 miles.
First class (express),
27.50 r.; second, 1875 r.
(Rouble=28.)

HE principal stations are very comfortably arranged, the buffets are numerous, and well supplied with refreshments, and a suitable time is allowed for obtaining them. Passing Kolpino (152 miles), we reach LUBAN (514 miles), where a delay of half an hour takes place. At Tchadow we cross the Volkhof, which flows from Lake Ilmen into Lake Ladoga. This is the station in winter for Nov

is

gorod the Great; the rest of the journey being made on sledges; in summer the steamers start from Volkhova, on Lake Ilmen. At Malo- Vyshera (100 miles), (Buffet), we creosse ttothaa. A ravine, near t,tMn shis spanned by a handsome iron bridge. Okulofka (1453 miles), (Buffet). A little to the left of the station of Valdai (175 miles) is Valdar, a town of 4000 inha bitants, situated on a lake of the same name, at the base of wellwooded hills, from which the Dwina, the Volga, and the Volkhof derive their sources. Bologovo (195 miles), (Buffet). Vischni-Volotchok (210 miles) is a place of 14,000 inhabitants, situated on the Tsna. Spirova (213 miles), (Buffet). Ostashkof (255 miles) is the station for Torjok, a town of 16,000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the manufacture of gold and silver embroidery. We next reach TVER (2963 miles), (Buffet) population 25,000. It is situated at the confluence of the Tvertsa and the Volga, and is the seat of the government of the same name. Founded in 1182, the capital of a principality in the 13th century, it was re-united to Russia in 1490. The Cathedral was restored in 1682. The Church

of the Trinity, built in 1584, is a specimen of ancient Russian ar

chitecture. A considerable trade is carried on here in corn, and in iron, from the mines in the Ural mountains.

Steamers sail regularly on the Volga to Nijni-Novgorod, Saratoff, and Astrakan.

Passing Klin (5200 inhabitants) and Krukova station, whence the monastery of the New Jerusalem or Voskresenski may be visited (14 miles), we reach Moscow (400 miles), (Hotels: See

HOTEL LIST"), population 460,000. This city, the ancient capital of Russia, and formerly

the residence of the Czars, is situated in a fertile district on the Moskva.

Previously to its being burned in 1812, Moscow was, perhaps, the most irregularly built city in Europe, and this description of it will, to a large extent, hold good at the present day. Its incongruities of architecture are, however, less conspicuous than they formerly were, when the flames of the Russian capital exerted so fatal an influence over the destinies of the first Napoleon.

The general view of the town, especially that obtained from an eminence on its southern side, called the Sparrow Hills, is eminently original and picturesque.

În the heart of the city is an inner enclosure, or citadel, the famous Kremlin, a triangle, two miles in circuit, crowded with palaces, churches, monasteries, arsenals, museums, and other buildings; but in which the Tartar style of architecture, with gilded domes and cupolas, forms the predominant feature.

The KREMLIN.-The REDEEMER'S GATE, (Spasky Vorota) is the sacred gate. Persons are required to uncover their heads in passing through it. It has an old painting, an object of great veneration to all Russians, before which candles are always burning. The Gate of St Nicholas is also an object of veneration.

The old palaces of the Kremlin were of wood, except the Granovitaia-Palata, and suffered much from the invasions of the Tartars, and from numerous fires. The Kremlin was almost entirely destroyed in 1812. The present PALACE was erected in the reign of Nicholas I. 1838-49. Among its departments are, the Hall of St George, the walls of which bear in gold letters, the names of soldiers decorated with that or

der; the Hall of St Alexander Nevsky; of St Andrew; St Catherine, and the banqueting-hall, decorated with scenes from Don Quixote. The Terema or Terem, a very interesting part of the Palace, was anciently devoted to the Empress and her children. It consists of four storeys, which diminish until the upper floor contains but one room. In the first storey are shown the Audience Chamber of the sovereigns. The Terem contains a collection of portraits of the Czars. The terrace commands a fine view. It was here Napoleon came to contemplate the marvels of the city.

The little Church of the Redeemer contains some rich decorations. Its exterior is remarkable for its twenty cupolas.

The Granovitaia - Palata contains the Hall where, after their coronation, the Emperors dined with the nobles.

The Little Palace (Maloi-Dvoretz), was built by Nicholas I., who resided in it for a few years after his marriage.

The CATHEDRAL OF THE AsSUMPTION is upon the Cathedral Place. It was founded in 1325 and rebuilt in 1472. It presents a curious assemblage of ornaments, arabesques, and pictures of saints. The architecture of the interior is Greco-Italian. Among its treasures are a Mount Sinai in pure gold; a Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter the Great, so heavy with gold and precious stones that two men are required to carry it; a picture, said to be by St Luke; and 2000 or more portraits of saints and celebrated personages. The Emperors of Russia are crowned in this church.

The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, contains the portraits of the sovereigns of Russia up to Peter the Great, and their tombs.

The Church of the Annunciation, where the Czars are baptized, is rich in relics. Its pavement is of jasper, cornelian, and agate.

The House of the Synod was once the house of the Patriarchs of Moscow. It contains the treasury and library of the Patriarchs. The sacerdotal robes, church vessels and plate of the Patriarchs are deposited here. Here, in silver vessels, is kept the holy oil, made only by the Holy Synod of Moscow, with which all Russian children are baptized.

The TREASURY (open Mondays and Thursdays, and to see which a permit must be had at the Chamberlain's office in the Senate, within the Kremlin) contains a collection of objects of great value and interest. In one of the apartments are the old state carriages of the Court of Moscow; among them is a miniature carriage which belonged to Peter the Great when a child. The crowns are exceedingly rich in precious stones, that of Catherine I. containing no less than 2536, and that of Michael Romanoff 9000. The Arsenal, near the Treasury, contains a great number of cannon taken from the Turks, Swedes, Poles, French, and Prussians.

The Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, is the most remarkable in Moscow. It was built in 1600. It is five storeys high, four being octagonal and the last cylindrical. It is 320 feet high to the top of the cross. The base ment is a chapel. In the storeys above are 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. These bells are all rung at Easter, producing a wonderful effect. The view from the summit of this tower is one of the most striking in the world.

The TSAR KOLOKOL, or Monarch of Bells is at the foot of the tower of Ivan. The tower in which it

was suspended was burned in 1737. In 1837 the Emperor Nicholas placed it in its present position. Its weight is 444,000 pounds. Its height is 20 feet, its circumference 60 ft. The figures in relief are those of Alexis and the Empress Ann, and on the scroll are represented the Saviour, the Virgin, and the Evangelists, surrounded by cherubims. The value of the metal in this bell is estimated at £350,000.

Edifices outside the Kremlin.— The Katai Gorod, or Chinese town, founded by Helena, the mother of John the Terrible, is under the walls of the Kremlin. It contains many important edifices, among others the Cathedral of St Basil, the bazaars, the Romanoff Palace, &c.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ST BASIL is a curious specimen of architecture. It is a medley of great and small domes, each different in colour and design, surmounting chapels dedicated to various saints. It was built in 1554, by Ivan IV. in memory of the capture of Kazan. The tradition is that he was so much pleased with it when completed that he caused the eyes of the Italian architect who planned it to be put out, so that it might never be surpassed.

The Iberian Gate and Chapel (lverskie Vorata), dedicated to the Mother of God, is the principal entrance to the Kitai Gorod, or Chinese town. The chapel contains a picture of the Iberian Mother of God, brought from Mount Athos in the reign of Alexis (1650), and considered of miraculous efficacy. It is constantly beset by worshippers whose gifts amount to £7,000 per annum.

The Convent of Dunskoi, in the southern extremity of the city, that of Simonoff and of Devitchei are well worth visiting, as is the

Foundling Hospital, which admits 12,000 children every year.

The University, founded in 1775, numbers 900 students. The Great Riding School is said to be the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars. Its length is 560 ft., its breadth 158 ft. and its height 42 ft.

The Great Theatre contains an elegant hall.

The Gostinnoi Dvor, or bazaar, is an enormous building of three stories, filled with shops. It is the largest bazaar in Russia, except that at Nijni Novgorod. It contains more than 1,000 shops, in which is exposed for sale merchandise from all parts of the world.

The Villa of the Empress is a little way to the south-east of the city, close by the Moskova. It is a beautiful villa, surrounded by magnificent gardens. Near by are the Sparrow hills, from which Napoleon obtained his first view of Moscow.

ROUTE 196.

and the seat of a celebrated ecclesiastical seminary, within the precincts of which the remains of St Alexander Nevsky were for a long time entombed. Built on the wooded heights above the Kliazma, and adorned with a fine cathedral, it has a very imposing appearance. The inhabitants depend for subsistence chiefly on their orchards and on the traffic they carry on at the great fair of Nijni Novgorod. This province is one of the most fertile and industrious in the Empire. It exports large quantities of grain, and possesses many flourishing manufactories. The next place of importance is Kocrof (163 miles), (Buffet), population 4,000, on the right bank of the Kliazma. Here are some cotton factories, &c. Vrazniki (194 miles), (Buffet), population 5,000. Linen manufactures are carried on here. The country is rich in corn, great quantities of which are exported.

Nijni Novgorod, 271 miles), (Hotels: de Russie, Egoroff's), population 45,000, is situated at the confluence of the Oka with the Volga. It is divided into two parts, the high town and the low town. The high town

MOSCOW TO NIJNI NOV- is chiefly composed of three hand

GOROD.

(The traveller is recommended to go by the night train, and, passing the day at Nijni Novgorod, to return to Moscow by the night train.)

271 miles.

EAVING Moscow we reach PAVLOFSK (40 (Buffet). Passing

several unimportant places, we arrive at VLADIMIR (117 miles), (Buffet), a town of 15,500 inhabitants, the capital of the province of that name,

some streets, which converge towards an irregular open space. Beyond this space rises the Krem lin, or citadel, finely situated on the highest point of the triangle, and immediately overhanging the bed of the Volga. It is surrounded by a wall 30 ft. in height, flanked with 13 towers, and contains the principal edifices of the town. Among those deserving of mention are the Cathedrals of the Archangel and of the Transfiguration, and the Governor's Palace. There are in all 48 churches, some of great size and beauty, two monasteries and a nunnery.

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