two or three other rooms, apparently only constructed to lessen the weight of the upper part of the Pyramid. What the Pyramids really were intended for, and who built them, are questions over which there has been an immense amount of argument and conjecture. Egyptologists are generally agreed that they are royal tombs, reared by successive stages, in the lifetime of the monarch, and at his death cased over with polished stone, and closed up. Baron Bunsen claims for Egypt at least 6,700 years of prosperity before the building of the Pyramids in the fourth Manetho dynasty. Mr Piazzi Smyth believes that the Great Pyramid was the first of Egyptian monuments built immediately after the immigration into Egypt. He considers the date of its erection was 2170 B.C. The Second Pyramid is assigned by Herodotus to Cephrenes, the brother of Cheops. This Pyramid is 447 ft. high, and has a base line of 690 ft. It is very difficult to ascend, as towards the top the ancient polished casing still exists. The Third Pyramid is 203 ft. in height, its base-line being 333 ft. A wooden mummy case and mummy from this Pyramid are now in the British Museum. A sarcophagus also found here was lost at sea with the vessel that was transporting it. There are several smaller Pyramids, of no special interest to the ordinary traveller, on the same rocky plateau. There is also a very ancient Pyramid at Abooroásh, five miles north. About a quarter of a mile from the Great Pyramid stands the SPHINX, called by the Arabs, "Aboo-el-hôl," the Father of Terror or Immensity. Its body is the natural rock, adapted by a little carving or the addition of masonry, and is 140 ft. in length. The paws, 50 ft. in length, are built up of hewn stones. The head is carved out of the solid rock, and measures 30 ft. from brow to chin, and 14 ft. across. Its features are now hopelessly mutilated, but are said to have worn "an expression of the softest beauty and most winning grace." From a sanctuary between the paws of this image, sacrifices were offered to the divinity it was supposed to represent. The Sphinx is of immense antiquity. It was at one time ascribed to Thothmes IV. (of the eighteenth dynasty), but subsequent research has removed its origin many ages further back. When Cheops or Shoofoo reared the Great Pyramid, the Sphinx was in existence. This is proved by the stone discovered by Mariette Bey, No. 581 in the Boulák Museum. "Laugh and mock if you will at the worship of stone idols," says Kinglake, "but mark ye this, ye breakers of images, that in one regard the stone idol bears awful semblance of deity-unchangeableness in the midst of change-the same seeing will and intent, for ever and ever inexorable. Upon ancient dynasties of Ethiopian and Egyptian kings, upon Greek and Roman, upon Arab and Ottoman conquerors; upon Napoleon, dreaming of an Eastern empire; upon battle and pestilence; upon the ceaseless misery of the Egyptian race; upon keen-eyed travellers, upon Herodotus yesterday and Warburton to-day, upon all and more this unworldly Sphinx has watched, and watched." Old Cairo, of the victorious Amer, was built in 638 A.D. In 1168 A.D., in order to prevent the Christians becoming masters of the city, it was burnt by the Saracens, and ever since rubbish The objects of interest in Old Cairo are the Mosque of Amer, built in 642 A.D., called by the Arabs the "Crown of Mosques," and, though abandoned, held in great veneration; and the enclosed convents, called Dayrs, sometimes enclosing ancient Greek and Coptic churches in their boundaries. Opposite Old Cairo is the island of Roda, at the south end of which is the Nilometer, which marks the gradual rise of the river as the time of the annual inundation draws near. Shoobra, the Khédive's Palace, can be visited on obtaining an order through the Consulate. About five miles from Cairo is the site of HELIOPOLIS. Abbaseeyah is passed on the way, and the Virgin's Tree pointed out. Under its shade the Holy Family is said to have rested. The village of Matareeah marks the site of the gardens to which Cleopatra transplanted the balsams of Judea, which produced the celebrated Balm of Gilead. Here also is the Miraculous Fountain, once salt, but which it is said has been fresh since the infant Saviour was bathed in its waters. At a short distance is HELIOPOLIS, where stood the great Temple of the Sun. "Here the wise studied 4,000 years ago. Here Joseph was married to Asenath. Here Plato and Herodotus pursued philosophy and history; and here the darkness that veiled the great sacrifice on Calvary was observed by the heathen astronomer, Dionysius the Areopagite." Its celebrated Obelisk is a monolith, and the most ancient in Egypt. It bears the name of Osirtasen I., the founder of the twelfth dynasty, and stands 68 ft. above the pave ment. SAKKARAH, and the site of ancient MEMPHIS, may be visited by taking carriage to the station at Ghizeh, on the Upper Egypt Railway, then proceeding by train to Bedreshayn, and thence by donkeys (sometimes brought on in the train or sent forward over night) to Sakkárah. It can be visited from Bedreshayn (15 miles from Cairo), by passengers on the Nile steamers. Leaving Bedreshayn, we soon reach Mitrahenny, the site of Memphis, formerly the capital of Egypt. It is called in the Scriptures Moph or Noph. It was the capital of Lower Egypt at the time of the patriarchs. The declaration of Jeremiah (xlvi. 19), that "Noph shall be waste and desolate, without an inhabitant," has been literally fulfilled. The objects now to be seen on the site of Memphis are- The Lake of the Temple of Phtah (Vulcan). The Red Granite Colossus of Rameses II. lying on its face on a hollow place. Another colossal statue of Rameses II., presented by Mahomed Ali to the English Government. Its face is in the water three quarters of the year. There are also some broken remains of smaller statues, &c. 50 B.C. Some of the sarcophagi are still in their places. The Pyramids of Sakkárah are eleven in number. The largest is built in stages, and is thought to be the oldest in Egypt, dating from the reign of Ouenephes, the fourth king of the first dynasty. It is 190 ft. in height, and contains a number of chambers and passages, in which about thirty mummies were found. One of the adjacent Pyramids is truncated, and is called by the Arabs Mastabat-el-Pharaoon, the throne of Pharaoh. A little to the north of the Great Pyramid are the pits where the mummies of the sacred ibis are preserved in earthenware pots. The Tomb of Tih and the Tomb of Phtah-hotep are the two best examples for the tourist to examine, of the ancient Empire tombs previously described. In the neighbourhood of Cairo several other interesting spots may be visited. The Tombs of the Memlooks, about a mile from Cairo, are beautiful examples of Saracenic mausoleums. The Petrified Forest is about five miles further from the city-a desert space covered with fragments of sycamore and palm, apparently turned to stone. ROUTE 217. CAIRO TO THE FIRST AND SECOND CATARACTS OF THE NILE. HE steamers of the Khédive mail line leave for the First Cataract once a fortnight during November and December, and once a week from January to March. The price of passage from Cairo to the First Cataract and return is £50 sterling, or say 250 dols.; from Cairo to the Second Cataract and return, £80, or say 400 dols. Thomas Cook and Son, who are agents for the Khédive steamers, quote prices for the journey FROM LONDON to the FIRST CATARACT and back, first class, £100; second, £86. Το the SECOND CATARACT, first class, £130; second class, £116: the route being from London, by railway, via Mont Cenis to Brindisi and Alexandria. If steamer is taken at Genoa or Marseilles for Alexandria, the cost would be about £5 less first class. "These prices include landing expenses at Alexandria; all expenses for donkeys and guide on the banks of the Nile; backsheesh to steamboat officers and crew, and all provisions on the steamers, except wine and other drinks." Luggage.-Twohundred pounds are allowed on the Nile steamers free; MEDICAL ATTENDANCE and medicines are provided without charge. The starting place at Cairo is from above the new iron bridge "Kasr-el-Nil." The steamer generally leaves at 10 A.M. The trip to the First Cataract and back is intended to occupy 20 days, Assouan, the limit of the journey, being reached early on the fourteenth day; the return journey commencing on the sixteenth day, Cairo being reached, on the return, on the twentieth day. The following information is given in the pamphlet of the Messrs Cook:-Having secured a passage, passengers have but to go on board at the appointed time with their luggage. Small change in copper-about 10 francs a head-ought to be procured in Cairo, and linen enough packed up to last for three weeks, no washing being done on board or by the way. For a small gratuity the sailors will wash small things, such as socks and handkerchiefs, but no ironing is done. During the months of November and December steamers leave Cairo (Boulák) regularly every fortnight, and from January to March every week. Any family party, or friends travelling to gether, can order a special steamer if they are willing to pay for at least fourteen full passages, or more, according to the size of the steamer disposable; in this case the time allowed (20 days) may be prolonged, and stoppages ordered at pleasure, on condition that overtime be paid in proportion to the total cost, and at the rate of one-twentieth from the amount paid per day, payable on return, for every day over and above the 20 days allowed. The cabins contain one or two beds, never more; in some boats there are all single cabins, with the exception of the stern and fore cabins, which are very roomy and always contain two or threebeds. Any party applying in good time, and not minding the expense of a third berth, if the stern cabin contains three beds, can engage it beforehand, and thus secure greater comfort and privacy. Arrangements can also be made to have meals served separately in this cabin. The rate of sailing is about eight miles per hour against stream, and from twelve to thirteen down the river. THE JOURNEY UP THE NILE. The steamers call at the following Stations, and stay there as follows:At Minieh 2 hours. At Beni-Hassan At Assiout At Girgeh or Bellianah, to visit Abydos 9 At Esneh 3 days. 3 hours. 5 1 14 days. On the return journey the steamers stop only for purposes of the Service. After leaving the place of embarkation at the Kasr-el-Nil, the steamer soon passes Old Cairo, and Roda and the Nilometer. Not far from Old Cairo, the mosque of Attar - en - Nebbee, which is said to perpetuate the name of Athor, the Egyptian Venus, is seen. The Pyramids of Ghizeh, Sakkárah, and Dashoor are passed on the western shore. On the east, Joora Másara is passed, with the immense quarries from which were taken the stone casings for the Pyramids. Looking back, the citadel of Cairo and its mosque are seen. Helwan (E.). Here are some sulphur springs. Bedreshayn is a Railway Station. Memphis, the Serapeum, the Pyramids of Sakkárah, and Dashoor can be visited while the steamer halts. The steamers arrive in the evening, and donkeys are sent from Cairo to enable passengers to visit Memphis and Sakkárah early in the morning. Atfeeyah (E.) is near the site of ancient Aphroditopolis. Zowyeh (W., 55 miles) is near the site of ancient Iseum. Isment (W.) is where the marble for the Mosque Mahomet Ali was obtained. Bibbeh (W.) Railway Station. Here is a Coptic convent. Feshun (92 miles). Railway Station. Malateeah (W.), and other villages. The Gebel Sheykh Embárak is seen for some time before reaching it. It is a large tablemountain, with broken surfaceone of the cliffs resembles a ruined castle. Maghagha (W., 106 miles) Railway Station. Here are some sugar factories belonging to the Government. Beyond is Hagar es-Saláno, or Rock of Welfare, which derives its name from the belief of the Nile boatmen, that they cannot call a Nile voyage prosperous until they have passed this rock on their return. Near Aboo Girgeh is Béhnesa, the site of ancient Oxyrhinchus, the city of Fish Worshippers. Semaloot, with its minaret rising conspicuously, is seen on the west shore. The lofty precipices of Gebel-el-Tayr are soon seen on the eastern shore. The mountain is better known from its Coptic convent of Sitteh Mariam-el-Adra (our Lady Mary the Virgin). It is of great antiquity, and is in reality like the Coptic Dayrs, a village of priests and families, surrounding a church, and walled in for protection from the Bedouins. Téhneh (E.) and Taha (W.) are passed, and then we reach Minich (156 miles), the capital of a province, the prettiest town on the Nile. There are several Mosques and a Palace. Here are the Khedive's sugar factories, some of the chimneys 200 feet high, and his rum distillery, where, "despite the Mahomedan law," he produces several thousand gallons annually. Beni-Hassan (171 miles). Hence to Manfaloot, especial care must be taken to guard against the thieving propensities of the inhabitants. The Rock Tombs of BeniHassan, half an hour's ride from the river, are celebrated for the light they shed on the manners and customs of ancient Egypt. They are excavated in the rocks above the Nile Valley, the northern tombs being the most interesting. The interior has a low wooden ceiling, supported by an avenue of Doric columns. The inside walls of these tombs are covered with well preserved coloured pictures, representing the daily life of Egypt four thousand years ago. Themost northern tomb is thatof Améni-Amenemha, the next that of Noom-hotep. "The famous grottoes of BeniHassan," says Hopley, "are a terrace of tombs high on the Arabian ridge, overlooking a two miles' breadth of fertile land. In these, hall after hall painted in graphic wall picturings, you may wander at will and study the familiar every-day life of men who walked the land before the days of Joseph. In these mansions of the dead, mimic men and women are wrestling, fishing, ploughing and reaping, trapping birds, giving dinner-parties, being flogged, treading the wine-press, dancing, playing the harp, weaving linen, playing at catch ball, being shaved by the barber, and playing at draughts. Yes, the old, old story of human life is there, told as in a picture book. Though seen through a gap of four thousand years the eye moistens over it still." |