rock, gave an alarm by barking. It was thrown into the sea, but by whom is not apparent, and a rock is still pointed out as "the Dog." The great interest of this spot is not, however, so much the river, or the bold promontory which forms its southern bank, as the nine Sculptures cut in the face of the rock. Before reaching them, an inscription will be seen from which it is ascertained that the rocky pass was cut by order of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, who is here designated Germanicus, and thus fixes the date when the road was constructed as between the years 176 and 180 A.D. The sculptures, nine in number, are three Egyptian and six Assyrian. One of the former is dedicated to Phthah, the god of Memphis; another to Ra, the Sun god; the third records certain expeditions of Sesostris (Rameses II.) The Assyrian sculptures are regarded as the work of Sennacherib, who invaded Syria 701 B.C. Much discussion has taken place with reference to the origin and history of these sculptures, and for fuller information the traveller is referred to the works of M. de Sauley, Lepsius, Robinson, Layard, and others.

From Nahr-el Kelb to Tripoli. There is a small Arabian Café here, and a day may be most pleasantly spent in this neighbourhood. Other excursions from Beyrout:-1. To Deir el-Kal'á, where there is a monastery 2200 feet above the sea level; guide necessary. 2. To Baabda, about seven miles from Beyrout. The journey may be made by carriage. It is the seat of the government of Lebanon. There is a garrison and an Emir's castle, from which there is a fine view.

ROUTE 221.

BEYROUT TO SMYRNA AND CONSTANTINOPLE.

day

HE steamers of the Austrian Lloyd's leave Beyrout for Smyrna every alternate Monevening, and stopping at Cyprus and Rhodes, reach Smyrna on Friday morning. Steamers of the French and Russian lines leave fortnightly. For these sailings, as they are liable to change, it is best to consult the published time tables.

Agents of the hotels board the steamers on their arrival at Smyrna. Passengers land at the English scala.

(Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX.") Population, 150,000.

Smyrna is one of the most ancient cities of Asia Minor, and the only one of the Greek cities which retains its importance to the present day. About 700 B.C. it formed part of the Ionian League. The ancient city, Old Smyrna, was situated on the north-east side of the gulf and claimed the honour of being the birthplace of Homer. It was destroyed by the Macedonians, and the present city was founded by Antigonus. It was laid out with great magnificence, and from its admirable situation became one of the most flourishing places in the world. It holds a distinguished place in early Christian history as one of the seven churches, and as the scene of the labours and martyrdom of its first bishop, Polycarp. The modern city is built partly on the plain at the head of the gulf, and partly on the declivity of

the ancient Mons Pagus. It has good quays and some fine buildings, though the houses are mostly low wooden ones. The streets, with few exceptions, are narrow and crooked. There are several Greek, Armenian, Roman Catholic, and Protestant Churches, and twenty mosques. The harbour is excellent, large vessels anchoring close to the quays. A railway 70 miles long, constructed principally with English capital, leads to Aidin, an inland commercial town. Another railway to Cassaba, 61 miles long, was finished in 1866.

There are few remains of the ancient cities; the site of the Stadium, where Polycarp is supposed to have suffered martyrdom, is pointed out. Smyrna has been often ravaged by earthquakes, fire, and the plague. The city is governed by a pasha.

EPHESUS.

Is forty-eight miles by railway from Smyrna. There is only one train a day each way, on weekdays, two on Sundays. Fare to Ephesus (Ayasouluk) and back, first-class, 90 Egyptian piastres; second class, 66 piastres.

EPHESUS, one of the twelve Ionic cities of Asia Minor, was situated in Lydia, near the mouth of the river Caystrus. According to Strabo it was built by Androclus, though many cling to the tradition of its Amazonian origin. It was long before it attained any importance, despite its being a sacred city from an early period. It came into the possession of the Romans in the time of Augustus, when Strabo wrote that it was

the 66

greatest place of trade of all the cities of Asia west of the Taurus." This was its condition when visited by St Paul, who

resided here three years. The destruction of its great temple by the Goths in 260 A.D. gave it a blow from which it never recovered. In 341 A.D. it was the scene of the third council of the Christian Church.

The ruins of Ephesus comprise fragments of the theatre (alluded to in the account of St Paul's preaching in the city) of the odeum, or music hall, and of various walls and towers. Near the western extremity of the town are some massive structures, which are regarded with much probability as the ruins of the famous Temple of Diana. This marvellous building, one of the seven wonders of the world, was originally built by Chersiphron, but destroyed by Herostratus on the night that Alexander the Great was born, 356 B.C. It was rebuilt in a style of great splendour by the inhabitants, women contributing their jewels to gain the necessary sum, but notwithstanding this enthusiasm, it was not completed for 200 years. It was the largest Greek temple ever constructed, its length being 425 ft., its width 220, and the number of its columns 128, of which 36 were carved and their height 60 ft. More wonderful than the temple itself were the numberless statues which adorned it, executed by the best masters of Greece. Plundered by Nero and burned by the Goths, it was finally destroyed in 381 A.D. by the iconoclasts. The site of Ephesus is now occupied by some wretched villages.

The Austrian Lloyd's steamer from Beyrout to Constantinople, via Smyrna, stops a day at Smyrna, giving passengers time to go to Ephesus and back. Persons desiring to remain longer will find frequent steamers to Constantinople and all other principal ports. The

Austrian Lloyd's steamer which leaves Smyrna on Saturday afternoon reaches Constantinople on Monday at 2 P.M., and the steamer of the Messageries Maritimes, the

best line, leaves every Friday for Syria and Marseilles.

For description of Constantinople, see Route 218, in this Guide Book.

A

the

LGERIA is situated on the north coast of Africa, and is bounded on the north by Mediterranean, on the east by Tunis, on the south by Sahara, and on the west by Morocco. It was a part of the Turkish Empire until 1830, when it became a French colony. The area of Algeria is about 173,000 square miles, the population in 1877 about 3,000,000, of which 220,000 are Europeans. The Atlas Mountains run parallel to the coast line. Behind these are vast plains called Sebkhas, interspersed with salt lakes which stretch back to a second chain of mountains, beyond which, again, lies the great desert of Sahara, extending to the banks of the Niger. The plains and valleys in the northern part of Algeria which open out toward the sea are very fertile, such as those around Algiers, Oran, &c. They form the Tell, once one of the granaries of Italy. The southern part of the country beyond the Atlas range partakes of the nature of the Sahara, but contains many oases, and is thickly populated. Algeria has no rivers of any importance.

With regard to THE CLIMATE, the heat in the Tell is sometimes very great. On the coast it is mitigated by the sea breeze, and among the high mountains of the interior the winters are even cold.

The average temperature of Algeria is 63 deg.

As a HEALTH RESORT Algeria has for some time attracted much attention. Dr Jackson in his "Medical Climatology," says:

"As a resort for persons threatened with Pulmonary Consumption, Algiers is deservedly in good repute. The climate is far from being of a relaxing character; on the contrary, it combines with its usual mildness and equability a decidedly bracing and tonic influence. Consumptive patients, in whom there is a wellmarked deposit of crude tubercle, may pass one or more winters in Algiers with advantage, under circumstances which afford nature the most ample leisure for repairing the disorganized structure. The sooner the patient is placed under its influence the more likely is the result to be beneficial. But when the disease has gone beyond what I have mentioned, when the patient is obviously sinking under the malady, Algiers is not to be recommended.'

Algeria reached a high degree of prosperity under the Romans. Its conquest by the Vandals under the famous Genseric in 440, threw it back into a state of barbarism. About the year 935, Algiers, Al-Jezira, i.e., the island, was built by an Arab, Prince ZEIRI, whose successor ruled the land until 1148. In 1492 the Moors and Jews, who had been

driven out of Spain, settled in Algeria, and at once began to avenge themselves on their Spanish persecutors by piracy. Ferdinand, King of Spain, attacked them on this account, and captured Algiers in 1509, and erected fortifications on the island which forms its harbour. Harade Barbarossa, the Greek renegade, being called to the aid of Algeria, became famous as a Turkish pirate chief.

This laid the foundation of the Turkish dominion in Algeria, for when Barbarossa arrived he turned his bands of corsairs against the emir, whom he murdered, and made himself Sultan of Algiers. The Spanish marched against him from Oran, and he was defeated and beheaded in 1518. His brother was then chosen Sultan. He put himself under the protection of the Ottoman Court, and by the help of a Turkish army drove the Spaniards out of the country and established the system of despotism and piracy which lasted until 1830.

Under the Moslem rule Algeria was continually at war with Christian countries. During the French revolution their piracies diminished owing to the presence in the Mediterranean of powerful fleets, but at the close of the war they were recommenced as vigorously as ever. This brought down on them the vengeance of the Christian Powers. The Americans took the lead, attacked the Algerine fleet on June 20th, 1815, defeated it, and compelled the dey to acknowledge the inviolability of the American flag. The English and Dutch fleets bombarded Algiers about the same time, and in a few hours half the city was in ruins. The dey was forced to yield, and a treaty was concluded (1816). Piracy continued after this, Algerine corsairs even going into the North

Sea. In 1830, owing to the destruction of a French vessel, the assassination of a French

Consul, and other atrocities, the French sent a fleet of 100 ships of war and 300 transports, with 37,000 infantry and 4,000 cavalry, and effected a landing near Algiers. They began on July 4, 1830, the bombardment of the city, and on the next day a capitulation was agreed to, and the French took possession of the place, capturing 1,500 guns, 17 ships of war, and 50,000,000 francs. Since then the country has remained a colony of France, though constant struggles have taken place, Abd-el-Kader maintaining a constant war against the French rule almost without interruption until 1847.

It is said that the possession of Algeria has cost France the lives of 150,000 men, besides £120,000,000 in money. Marshal MacMahon, President of the French Republic, was Governor of Algeria in 1864. In 1865 the Emperor Napoleon III. visited Algeria, and made an effort to reconcile the Arab populations to the French rule, with only partial success. Contests between the French and Arabs continued up to 1870, and many districts are still held exclusively under military rule. The French are doing much to improve the country and the condition of the people, who are becoming more reconciled to French rule.

The shooting season in Algeria begins at the middle of August and closes at the beginning of February. There is no good shooting near Algiers, but further off game is abundant. Snipe, wild ducks, partridges, gazelle, abound, and among the Arabs in the south lions and tigers may be found.

ROUTE 222. MARSEILLES TO ALGIERS.

STEAMER of the Messageries Maritimes leaves Marseilles every Saturday at 5 p.m.; time, 36 hours; fare, 1st Cabin, 70 francs; second cabin, 50 francs. The Transatlantique Co.'s steamer leaves Marseilles for Algiers every Tuesday and Saturday at 5 p.m. A steamer of the same company leaves Marseilles for Oran direct every Wednesday and Saturday at 5 p.m.

The landing at Algiers is made in small boats, the charge for each passenger being fifty centimes. Commissionaires from the hotels board the steamers on arrival and take charge of passengers and their luggage.

ALGIERS (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.")

CAFES.-De Bordeaux, d'Apollon, de la Bourse, all in the Place du Gouvernement.

ENGLISH CHURCH at the Port d'Isly. Services at 10 a.m. and

4 p.m.

The BEST SHOPS are in the Rues Bab-el-Oued, Bab-Azoun, and De la Lyre. The principal Bazaars are in the passages leading from the Place du Gouvernement to the Rue de Chartres.

The PUBLIC CARRIAGES are very good, the charges are:-For two-horse carriage, 2 francs per hour; half a day or six hours, 11 francs; for a day of twelve hours, 20 francs. One-horse flys, in the lower town, per course, 1 franc, in the upper town, 2 francs.

Omnibuses ply between the Place du Gouvernement and the various suburbs.

With the

THE CITY, which has a population of 56,000, was built, as before stated, in 935 A.D., by an Arab Chief. It rises from the sea shore up the sides of a precipitous hill in the form of an equilateral triangle. The apex is formed by the ancient fortress of the deys, which is 500 ft. above the sea level and commands the town. The base is a mile in length. The present city may be regarded as divided into two parts, the old or high town, and the new or low town. exception of some Mosques, the latter consists of warehouses, wharves, squares, and streets built and inhabited by the French, while the former is almost wholly Moorish both in buildings and inhabitants. The new town has regular and handsome streets and squares, and the public buildings are very fine. It is well lighted with gas. The Place du Gouvernement is a fine square planted with trees. On one side of this square is a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Orleans by Marochetti. This square is the fashionable evening promenade of the citizens. A military band plays in it twice a week. The Place Bresson and the Place d'Armes are also fine squares.

The principal streets are the Rue Bab-el-Oued, and BabAzoun, leading out of the Place du Gouvernement. Other fine streets are Rue de la Lyre, de Chartres, d'Isly, some of which are arcaded on both sides. The Boulevard de la République is built on a series of arches at the head of the cliff and extends along the front of the town. On one side are handsome buildings, among them the Hôtel d'Orient, Banque d'Angleterre, the Treasury and Post Office, with a wide promenade on the other side overlooking the bay.

Other notable buildings in