voking in the appearance of these ugly, graceless munity in Italy, preserved through so many centustatues, which are so ostentatiously stuck up in ries the name and privileges of a republic. every town throughout the Pontifical states-the The remarkable mountain upon which the town emblem of a ruinous and draining system, which of San Marino is built was anciently called Titano, has reduced these naturally fertile localities to their perhaps in reference to certain gigantic bones found present wretchedness, towering, as it were, above buried there, but more probably in allusion to its the misery it has occasioned. The inclined head, isolated position as if thrown on the plain by one and arm extended as if in the act of blessing, is a of the fabulous giants of antiquity. It retained benignant, humble posture, in ridiculous contrast to this primitive appellation until the ninth century. the surly soldiery and countless mendicants who On one side it presents a beautiful line of hills seem to constitute the legitimate subjects of Papal rising in picturesque gradation, and on the other a favor. Rimini is one of the most ancient of these dissevered cliff surmounted by an abrupt wall of rock. appendages to the Roman states, and boasts of a The soil is argillaceous and abounds in sulphur, few antiquities, with which the traveller can beguile petrified shells and valuable mineral springs, some an hour, while some of the excellent fish from the of which enjoy considerable celebrity for their adjacent bay are preparing for his supper. Upon sanative qualities among the inhabitants of the the principal piazza, a large palace, which presents surrounding districts. This spot thus favored by nothing without but a broad front of mutilated nature, might have remained unknown to fame, had brick-work, and within is newly fitted up in mod- not a certain Dalmatian by the name of Marino, a ern style, is pointed out as the former dwelling of lapidary, come to Rimini and having occasion to Francesca di Rimini, whose singularly melancholy visit Titano, where he discovered abundant matestory constitutes the most beautiful episode of Dan- rials for his art, found it no less adapted to afford te's Inferno, has been dramatized by Silvio Pellico, a retreat from persecution and a fit retirement for and forms the subject of one of Leigh Hunt's most a tranquil, free and religious life. Favored by the graphic poems. If the visitor endeavors to recall archbishop of Rimini, he established himself on the to his mind the knightly splendor which at that mountain, and was soon resorted to on account of epoch the scene before him presented, and a strain his benevolence and piety, till the number of the of martial music swell upon the air as if to aid his faithful who became attached to the place induced fancy, the illusion is quickly dispelled when, instead the formation of a settlement and the erection of a of a company of gallant courtiers, an Austrian church. Marino was believed to work miracles, regiment in plain uniform winds in view, marching and soon became renowned. By the eleventh cenfrom the parade ground to their quarters. On a tury, agreeable to the universal system of defensive fine October morning, I resolved to escape awhile structures forming throughout Italy, the republic from these scenes thus darkened by despotism, and was in a measure fortified by the rearing of a casmake an excursion to a spot still hallowed by the tle. The zeal of the people in effecting this object presence of freedom. The approach to San Marino is no small evidence of their attachment to freedom, is through a pleasant and fertile country, and a small which is no less signally indicated by the remarkabridge indicates the line which divides the repub- ble and at that period unique inscription placed upon lican territory from Rimini. After crossing this their church-DIVO. MARINO. PATRONO. ET LIBERTAboundary, the road becomes more hilly, and the TIS AUCTORI. During the succeeding age, in conseaspect of the surrounding fields more variegated, quence of the increasing population, the inhabitants displaying numerous small oaks and elms, clumps of Il Castello, as the summit was called, divided— of olive trees, and patches of yellow cane. In a portion descending to the first table land now many spots, well-clad and hardy-looking women called Il Borgo. About this time, rose into power were breaking the glebes in the newly-ploughed some of those mighty families who so long and land, to prepare it for the reception of grain or vines. fiercely tyrannised over Italy. From its very infanNothing can be more picturesque than the sight of cy, the republic was surrounded by these despotic the town. It is built upon the summit of a hill rivals-especially the Feltreschi, Malatesti and which presents an almost perpendicular cliff to the Fagginoli-and yet, although frequently involvapproaching traveller, the rocky face of which is ed in the most trying dilemmas, preserved its love relieved by a grove of chesnuts whose autumn- of liberty and its actual independence. In the tinted leaves waved in umbrageous masses among twelfth century, when the warfare between the adthe grey stones. As we drew near, it struck me herents of the Emperor and the Pope, convulsed the as a most appropriate eyry for the "mountain Italian states, although San Marino was in a much nymph-sweet liberty." The very air seemed in- happier condition to enjoy the benefits for which stinct with freedom, and every step along the wind- some contended in the struggle, it was long being road to bring us to a region of more elevated and fore the demon of faction invaded the peaceful bracing influences. As we thus approach, let us precincts of the republic. The archbishop Ugolino trace the history of a spot which, amid the countless gave the spirit of party birth. He was a violent vicissitudes that involved in ruin every other com- Ghibelline. His ardor in the cause attached many

to him, and when the people subsequently purchased between the various powerful families of the neighof the neighboring barons land to accommodate their boring territory and the republic, was simply a increasing population, he succeeded by means of mutual league implying no subjection. This asserpriestly influence in becoming a distinct party in tion is confirmed by the singular fidelity manifested the contract, evidently with a view to obtain some by the people towards friendly barons. The threat feudal authority and join temporal to spiritual power. of excommunication failed to make them abandon The same attempt was made on a similar occasion a certain feudal lord, who fled to their citadel to by his successor. The inhabitants were well iden- escape the vengeance of Pope John. It is proved tified with the Ghibelline party, and when it was also, by several existing documents, that their relaoverthrown in Romagna, afforded a secure asylum tions with the Feltreschi and other distinguished to its member and most illustrious leader in that families who have been supposed to have exercised region. Toward the close of the century, while feudal authority over San Marino, were merely Hildebrand reigned, Teodorico, the bishop, proceed- those of friendly alliance. Thus they appear to ed to levy certain church tributes upon all the pro- have been wholly exempt from temporal dominion, vinces, including San Marino. Upon the republi- and as to spiritual, the assumption of cardinal Ancans asserting their independence, an examination drimini, in 1368, was withdrawn by solemn decree, of their claims to the distinction resulted in his and the bishop obliged to disclaim publicly any withdrawing the demand, and acknowledging by intention of seeking authority. Soon after, a more a public decree the entire liberty of the republic. insidious enemy to the republic arose in one of its This is one of the earliest recorded testimonies to own citizens, Giacomo Pelizzaro, who plotted with the original liberty of San Marino, and is the more the Podesta of Brescia and the archbishop of Monremarkable from having occurred at a period when tefeltre, to deliver San Marino into their hands. the authority of the church was so profoundly re- His plan was happily discovered before its execuverenced, and her officers so unwearied and importu- tion. He confessed, and suffered death as a traitor. nate in their exaction. A like attempt to impose taxes During the succeeding era of private and bloody was made soon after by the neighboring podestas, feuds, San Marino, allied to Count Guido, was and upon a similar refusal being returned by the more fortunate than the rest of Italy in escaping republic, the subject was referred to a solemn trial, the dangers of this and other alliances, by means according to the practice of the times. At this of which, treachery or the exigency of the times examination, it appears that not only were the facts could have so easily procured the republic's ruin. of their history questioned, but the leading men A war with Sigismondi Pandolfo, Signore of Ricatechised even upon the metaphysical basis of mini, ended in his downfall and an increase of their their rights, being asked "what is liberty ?" and territory, attested to them in 1463. Now, too, we sundry other abstract problems; but their historian, find the alliance of the little state sought by the with characteristic partiality perhaps, declares larger and superior principalities of Italy, a fact that the honest republicans were not in the least only to be accounted for by the reputation it enjoypuzzled or confounded, but exhibited an extraordi- ed for the character of its institutions. In 1491, nary strength and clearness of purpose, as well as a during one of those fitful intervals of peace which singular unanimity of feeling, on this memorable occasionally blessed that age of war and turbulence, occasion. The result, however, was a declaration among the meliorations of the civil code, we find against them, and a formal assertion of the right to statutes enforcing the immediate payment of public tax on the part of the church and other authorities. debts, the proclamation of criminal sentences, the Whether this right was ever enforced is very obligations of the captains to procure as far as doubtful, but from the endeavor never being repea- possible treaties of peace and good fellowship, and ted, the inference is that the parties either from prohibiting the flogging of children under four respect to the people or from motives of policy, years of age. At this time, some of the warriors were content with merely asserting their claims. from San Marino gained much renown in the batThe simple majesty of its political character seems tles of the age, and several men of distinguished to have proved remarkably efficacious, even at this talents arose, among whom were two of the earliearly period, in securing for San Marino a degree est commentators of Dante. The republic appears of consideration wholly disproportionate to its di- to have been singularly favored in her diplomatic minutive size. agents. Her ambassadors were most wisely seEarly in the fourteenth century, the supreme lected, and to the firmness and wisdom which magistrate's title of Consul was changed to that of marked their proceedings is to be ascribed the alCaptain or Defender, and because of the abuse of most miraculous escape of the state from embroilthe latter in Italy, the former was ultimately alone ments with other powers, and accounts, in no small retained. At this period commenced a series of degree for the remarkable esteem she gained in difficulties with Rimini, induced by clashing inter- Italy. A most dangerous era for San Marino was ests and rival jealousies. The annalist of the the time of the infamous Cesar Borgia, and for a epoch is at great pains to show, that the connection limited space she placed herself under the protec

tion of the Duca del Valentino.

Continuing, how- of the Savior-" let this cup pass from me”—proever, to enjoy the amity of the illustrious house of tested that he had not made one mark of shame Urbino, she maintained to an almost incredible ex-upon the face of the protecting saint, but would tent the favor of the church, and afforded a refuge, ever exclaim "Evviva San Marino, evviva la Lioften at great risk, to the many persecuted victims berta!" These words uttered with enthusiasm, of all parties. The spirit of faction and the priestly were caught and repeated, until they resounded pretensions which have ever been the bane of the through the holy edifice, re-awakening the dormant Italian states, too soon, however, induced a fatal patriotism of the people and striking fear into the dereliction from the primitive patriotism and honest heart of the usurper. The functions were abruptly attachment to freedom. Another cause of this closed and a scene of disorder ensued. Before Aldecline, may be found in the influence of some of beroni left the church, he threatened the rebellious those who sought an asylum within the limits of with death. The faithful remained to concert meaSan Marino. Refugees from all parties, they sures for the safety of their country. Perceiving naturally brought and disseminated much of the that an immediate appeal to force would be useless, perverse and exciting spirit of the times among the they determined to represent the case to the Pope less sophisticated inhabitants. For these and other and calmly await the result, meantime using every reasons, the commencement of the seventeenth means to reanimate the drooping spirit of their century found the people more exposed than they fellow-citizens. Notwithstanding the age and imhad been to the subjection which the agents of the becility of Clement XII., he was just and benevoRomish church so constantly and insidiously en- lent, and upon being informed of the facts, indigdeavored to effect. An intrigue, according to his- nantly declared that he had vested no authority in tory, combining all the low cunning, ambition and the legate to attempt obtaining any ascendency over ready talent necessary to promote this object, soon the people of San Marino, nor to interfere with appeared. Alberoni being legate in Romagna, their rights-but simply to exert a spiritual influundertook to befriend certain men who were suffer-ence and protection. To contravene the base asing under the just awards of the tribunal of San sumption of Alberoni, he despatched Monsignor Marino. The republic, from a deep conviction of Napolitano, afterwards Cardinal, with power to rethe bad results produced by allowing justice to be establish the good fame of the papal court, and impeded by priestly intervention and commenditizie, secure justice to the people. Between the usurwhich custom had been grossly abused at that pe-pation of Alberoni and the restitution of the riod, made rigid enactments against it; notwithstan- republic, there was, however, an interregnum of ding which, the haughty prelate insisted upon the three months and a half. San Marino was restored privilege. The republicans vainly explained and remonstrated; yet boldly maintained their rights. Alberoni, by way of revenge, caused certain of their citizens to be imprisoned in Rimini, and by cutting off their communication with the surrounding country endeavored to produce a famine. At curious literary discussion. The event redounded the same time, his efforts were unremitted to seduce the most ill-disposed of the citizens, and he succeeded in securing the cooperation of many traitorous abettors. Misrepresenting them to the Pope and sacred college, and abusing the authority vested When the modern conqueror of Europe drew in him by the pontiff, he artfully induced that ruler near the confines of the small but honored state, he to exert a special commission in his favor, and un-respected their liberties. Receiving most gracider its shield endeavored to annex San Marino, as ously the ambassador from San Marino, in an forfeited, to the papal territory. At length, every elegant address, he alluded to the singular preservathing being prepared for the consummation of his tion of their freedom, and promised his protection; vile project, on the twenty-fourth of October, 1739, at the same time offering to enlarge their possesattended by a band of his satellites, he passed sions, and tendering, as an indication of his respect through the Borgo and was even cheered by some and good will, a present of two field-pieces. Monge, of the infatuated citizens. He entered the sacred the ambassador, made an eloquent reply, gratefully temple dedicated to Liberty and their Saint, where acknowledging the courtesy of Napoleon and aphe smoothed over with subtle words the nefarious-plauding his forbearance. The people declined his ness of his scheme; and Capitano Giangi thus offers and present; but in commemoration of the ocacknowledged his concurrence: "Nel di primo di casion, added the 12th of February, 1797, as another Ottobre giurai fedeltà al mio legittimo principe del- joyous anniversary to the republic's calendar. la Republica di San Marino; quel giuramento The original government was simply paternal. confermo e cosi giuro." Giuseppe Onofri repeated The laws sprung from necessity, were improved the same oath; but, Girolamo Gori using the words by experience, and modified from time to time,

on the fifth of February, the day of the sacred virgin Agatha. Shouts, prayers, tears of joy, and jubilee in every form, announced the happy event; and the day has since been observed as a festival. Alberoni's defence of his conduct gave rise to some

to the improvement of the people, operating as an effectual check upon the passion for intrigue, and to the honor of Clement, to whom a monument was erected by the grateful republicans.

according to the circumstances and wants of the lic, surround an ancient chair covered with crimpeople. Two captains, one from the signors and son velvet, placed beneath a canopy of the same one from the citizens at large, are elected every hue. A mutilated picture of the Holy Family by six months. No individual can be re-elected oftener than once in three years. Thus all deserving the honor, serve in turn. No prejudice exists with respect to age, very young men being frequently chosen when of great promise or proved worth. It is only indispensable that the captains should be natives of the republic. The legislative body consists of a council of seventy and another of twelve. A judicial magistrate is also elected triennially by the council. The state includes a circuit of twentyfive miles, and its present population is between six and seven thousand.

Giulio Romano and a bust of their favorite ambassador, Antonio Hormissboi, are the only ornaments of which the apartment boasts. I had lingered, but a day or two previous, in the magnificent halls of some of the Bolognese nobility, where the silken drapery, rich marbles and splendid works of art, weary the gaze. But this plain and unadorned chamber possessed an interest which their profuse decorations failed to inspire. It bespoke narrower resources but a richer spirit. The presence of freedom seemed to hallow every sunbeam that played upon the undecked walls. Nor have Such is a brief sketch of the history of San mightier principalities disdained, in our day, to Marino. Its long immunity from conquest and recognize the little republic. Among its archives despotism and the remarkable perpetuity of its in- are many complimentary communications from the stitutions, are doubtless owing, in no small measure, several Italian governments, the late king of Spain, to its insignificant size and almost impregnable and the present king of France. Not long since, a position. Still the place cannot but possess a sin- prior being discovered manifesting a disposition to gular interest in the view of a pilgrim from the intrigue beyond his appropriate sphere, was bound, New World, especially when its present condition conducted to the confines and banished. The only is contrasted with that of the rest of Italy, and more organized force is the militia, who are bound to particularly of the surrounding territory. A few second the executive and judicial magistrates. humble domiciles scattered along the lower ridge The people, however, are distinguished for their of the mountain, and separated by a narrow and probity and peaceful habits. Most of them are rugged street, constitute "Il Borgo." Thence, engaged in agriculture. The only peculiar trait ascending by a circuitous path, we soon arrived at observable among them, is an inflexible attachment a larger collection of houses which form the capital to their peculiar institutions and an earnest spirit of of the republic. It differs not essentially from freedom. But recently, an archbishop whose prosimilar Italian towns, except that the streets are vince of duty properly embraced two towns, one of narrower and more straggling. The new church, which was San Marino, abandoned the latter in just completed, is a pretty edifice built of travertina, disgust, because he could not induce the people, or excavated near by, after the design of Antonio Sara. public occasions, to salute him before their own The twelve apostles in stucco, placed in niches, rulers. Every half-year, they go in a body to the ornament the interior, and near the altar is a church, and deposite their votes for captains in a handsome marble statue of Saint Marino, recently silver vase. The result of the election is made executed by a Roman Sculptor. He is represented known at evening, and they accompany the sucholding a scroll, upon which the arms of the republic cessful candidate home, with torches. Before (three towers surmounted by as many pens, signi- leaving the town, I ascended to the old castle. ficant of the union of strength and wisdom) are The walls command a most extensive and beautiful sculptured in bronze, with the word LIBERTAS. prospect, embracing the plains of Lombardy, a This edifice continues as in ancient times, the place broad sweep of wild, undulating hills, the mountain of elections as well as of worship. There is a of Ancona and the waters of the Adriatic. It is a little theatre where dilletanti occasionally perform. delightful pastime to sit in the pleasant sunshine of I was at some pains to enter this miniature temple autumn, and gazing from this little spot of free of Thespis, for the sake of standing in the only earth over such a landscape, let the imagination theatre in Italy exempt from censorship, and where, luxuriate amid the thrilling associations of the although the audience be small and the spot is iso- scene! We found but one occupant of the prison. lated, free expression is given to any sentiment or The gate was opened by a pretty blue-eyed woman, opinion which the people choose to utter or applaud. the wife of the gaoler, who follows the trade of a Crossing a grass-grown and solitary court near the cobbler in the belfry of one of the three towers. walls, where four or five cisterns alone give signs There is one horrid dungeon where a traitor priest of the vicinity of man, we entered a small and suffered a long imprisonment; but the number of time-worn building ornamented by an old tower and available cells is only three-which speaks well for clock, and ascending a narrow flight of steps, were the general character of the people. When, on ushered into the council-room. A few wooden our return, we reached the little bridge which seats, scattered over the brick floor, upon the back divides the republican territory from Rimini, a of which are rudely painted the arms of the repub-venerable woman was leaning upon the parapet,

on