says, that neither Vesuvius nor Etna were to be compared with "the Hell of Masaya," as it was called. It is said that tigers and pumas are numerous in the vicinity. The mountain, at the base, is about three leagues in circumference, and rises to the height of a league from the foot to the summit. He also adds, "Some assert that the light caused by the eruption is sufficient to read by at the distance of three leagues. The whole country is illuminated by the flame of the volcano." The crater is about five hundred feet in depth; and owing to its regular ascent, the width diminishes as it descends. The bottom of the crater is at least two hundred feet in circumference. The country immediately surrounding is barren and desolate-an occasional blighted tree still standing, a melancholy sentinel over this desert of scoriaceous

mass.

After a pause sufficient to fully satisfy us, we resumed our saddles, and over a rough, wild, hollow, rumbling road, reached a lovely and rolling country, a grateful relief to the eye and feelings. Hard by, on our right, we espied a hut; and not having found a stream where we might refresh ourselves and our jaded animals, we turned from the beaten path, and rode to the open door. Here we found several Indians of the Chorotegan race, who furnished us with lemonade, cakes, candies, and eggs, and we lolled in the ever-ready hammocks until the sun began to decline, when again spring

CHAMORRO AND THE GRENADINOS.

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ing into the stirrup, we hastened to Managua. The entrance to the city is agreeable, the road being lined with trees; the cane huts, whitewashed or painted, pitched gracefully upon the side of a hill, or stuck jauntily upon its summit, surrounded by heavily-laden orange and lemon trees. The effect was indeed the more striking, as we had just left the black fields of Masaya, and turned from our halt in the broiling sun to a delightful repose.

The army of the Grenadinos was quartered in Managua, and our posada was the headquarters of General Chamorro and suite, and consequently we fared better, probably, than those travelers who arrived in town a few hours later. The drums were beating, troops were marshalling in the distance, and the guards were about being relieved, as we strolled out to survey the city by moonlight, after sipping a cup of tiste. The people were sitting at their doors, smoking and chatting over some imaginary entrée of General Muñoz, who, it was currently reported, was to attack the town that night. As we advanced, the challenge of the sentry on every corner announced our approach to the plaza. The moon rose beautifully over the towering coyal palms in the distance, and illumined a large sheet of water beyond us, which we subsequently discovered was Lake Managua.

Lake Nihapa lies about nine miles from the city, and occupies the crater of an extinct volcano. Here we found

masses of black lava, partially covered with patches of grass, while before us were small huts. Beyond, flowing in harmonious swells, were mountains, crowned with graceful foliage; and far beyond stretched Lake Managua, gemmed with islands, gleaming like a huge burnished mirror. We descended to a position of safety, and gazed far down the depth of the crater, where we saw a variety of uncouth, red-painted figures, concerning which I had no time to gather any thing, and probably saved my labor, for queries are to but little. purpose in Nicaragua. "Quien sabe ?"-Who knows?-is a fit companion for the everlasting "Poco tiempo ;" and between the two you derive as little satisfaction as from any sources imaginable. There is said to exist here the remains of an Indian temple. If it does, I did not see it; but I found an arched cave, which, to an inexperienced eye, aided by a fertile and superstitious imagination, might prove a temple as well as any thing else. The choice is altogether a matter of taste, and I suppose the inhabitants delight in believing that which tradition has handed to them.

There are various other lakes in the neighborhood of the city, all of volcanic formation and origin. The Salt Lake is one of them, the water being brackish. The descent to it is steep, and overgrown with underbrush and briers. Another, the name of which I cannot recall, is reached by a path margined with cacti. The water is very cool, the sun is felt but little,

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105

and it is the favorite resort of the washer-women of the city Managua, in ancient times, after the expedition of Cordova, was said to be nine miles long, contained forty thousand inhabitants, and the country generally might be said to swarm with population. It is now a quiet place, celebrated only for its neighboring lakes, a few old statues, and for the exceeding grace of its nut-brown señoritas.

CHAPTER XI.

MANAGUA-ITS INHABITANTS-SERVILES AND LIBERALS-HISTORICAL INTERLUDES-EDUCATION-THE FATHERS OF ELD-BIGOTRY-ECCLESIASTICS-AN

ANCIENT CARVING-PADRE VIGIL-RELIGOUS CEREMONIES-THE INDIANSSQUIER'S ASSERTIONS RELATIVE TO THE MOSQUITO INDIANS-HISTORY AGAIN -IDEAS ABOUT MIGRATION-ANTIQUE STONES (PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS)—THE CONFESSORS OF THE CONQUEST.

MANAGUA is the seat of the meeting of the Legislature. Its inhabitants are deemed stanch and loyal citizens; and there being continual jealousies and strifes between Leon and Granada, here, on neutral ground, the opposing cliques eventually meet, arrayed in the "panoply of war," to battle, fortune. deciding in turns for either party. These intestine broils are waged with acrimony; families are arrayed against their own; kin forget, or forsake kindred ties, and bury in the preparation for strife every ancient feeling of love and reciprocal friendship. Events of long standing are causes for animosities,