CHAPTER XIV.

HISTORICAL INTERLUDE-LOCATION OF LEON-RUINED HOUSES-THE PLAINSUBURBS-CANE HUTS-PIRATES IN 1685-REVOLUTIONS-THE CATHEDRALITS SIZE, COST, DESCRIPTION-THE

THE

INTERIOR-THE ORGAN-THE GREAT ALTAR-PORTRAITS-CONFESSIONAL CHAIRS GALLERY-VIEW FROM THE ROOF COLLEGE OF ST. RAMON-THE EPISCOPAL PALACE-THE CUARTELGOVERNMENT HOUSE LA MERCED CALVARIO RECOLLECCIONSTATUES SUBTIABA-PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL-ALTARS-MARKET OF LEON -FRUITS-TRADE-STORES AND MERCHANTS-THE BISHOP'S BATHS-PARAISO DE MAHOMA-CLIMATE-THE BISHOP-HIS CARRIAGE-MR. SQUIERA VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF SAN PEDRO-BAPTISM OF A VOLCANO-PLAIN OF LEON-EARTHQUAKES-A VISIT TO GENERAL MUNOZ-HIS ATTENDANTSA TETE-A-TETE-A WORD OR TWO-HIS RESIDENCE AND FAMILY.

THIS city was founded by Hernandez de Cordova in 1523. Its original site was near the base of the volcano of Momotombo, which, however, was abandoned in 1610 for the present locality, formerly a large Indian village, Subtiaba, now a municipality of Leon. It is about half way between Lake Managua and the Pacific, and covers a vast area, built upon

as in Granada and Managua, though a finer class of houses originally existed here, many of which are now shapeless ruins. A few still remain, and those are not in the best state of preservation. The principal entrances to some of these edifices exhibit considerable taste and skill. Above some of the portal-arches, the arms of the nobler class were placed; and altogether, even in the ruins, a grandeur is perceived not met with elsewhere in the country.

The plain we passed over, described in our last chapter, surrounds the city; the land is fertile and particularly adapted to the culture of sugar-cane and cotton. Upon two sides are ravines, through which fine streams of water flow, whence the inhabitants are supplied; the article being purer and fresher than that to be had in other localities. The suburbs are composed of cane huts, some with mud, others with tiled roofs. The city suffered extensively and frequently from the English pirates, in 1685, who sacked it, burned the cathedral, the convent, and many of the principal edifices. Subsequent to the Declaration of Independence, a war ensued between the Serviles and the Liberals, during which the richest portions of the town were destroyed.

A few of its public buildings are worthy of notice. The Cathedral of St. Peter, on the eastern side of the grand plaza, was commenced in 1706 and finished in 1743, occupying thirty-seven years in its completion, and is deservedly

THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER.

139

called the finest edifice in Nicaragua. Its cost is said to have been from four to five millions of dollars. Its front occupies the width of the plaza. It is built of cut stone, light in color. There are six or seven immense arches upon the roof; and its strength may be better arrived at when it is said that ten thousand troops have been concentrated upon it at one time, with no less than thirty pieces of artillery. Its ornaments are stucco. The interior is chaste, and almost

devoid of ornament.

The great altar, at the easternmost extremity, is composed of silver, handsomely graven, though it has been despoiled in the numerous contests. The side altars are plain and unattractive. Within a side room are many portraits of the bishops, rather rude in execution and harsh in color. Both the front and rear were once ornamented with the Royal arms of old Spain, but these have been removed. The confessional chairs are placed in the northern and southern aisles, but were vacant during my visit. A small gallery extends over the main portal, and there I found an organ. The friend who accompanied me, the father-in-law of General Muñoz, asked me to perform. I touched the keys, but found its voice harsh and discordant. It wanted tuning badly, and had I had even a pair of pincers, should have volunteered my services. At one time the wealth of the cathedral was enormous; but at present it is a massive and elegant

edifice, which only at a small expense, could be restored to its primal magnificence. From its roof, the Pacific and nine volcanoes can be seen; the view is the finest that can be obtained of so many remarkable objects at one glance.

The College of St. Ramon, founded in 1675, an university of law and medicine, is to the left, and like many other public buildings grouped below us, it has fallen, though efforts at restoration are being made. Adjoining this is the Episcopal Palace. It is built of adobes, has two balconies, tiled roof, and was at one time a splendid residence.

The cuartel, or barracks of the Government forces, is a large building on the south side of the plaza, where are stationed the troops, constantly on the alert, and in readiness for action. The Government House is opposite, and occupies the entire north side. It has a large, raised corridor along its front, and is higher than other adjacent buildings. It is built of adobe, and beyond this is in no respect remarkable. The churches of La Merced, Calvario, and Recolleccion, are fine structures. The niches in the façade of the Calvario are filled with the statues of saints, and ornamented with panels of scriptural groups. The Merced contains a few paintings, and its altar piece is decidedly good. A convent, formerly attached to this, has been abolished. There are many other churches, though smaller, and more or less in progress of decay. The municipality of Subtiaba contains some good

MARKETS AND BATHS OF LEON.

141 buildings, a fine plaza, and a cathedral second to that of Leon. The interior is tastefully arranged. It has eight altars, four or five chapels, and many columns with gilt capitals. Its proportion is graceful, and altogether I think it the handsomest of any church in the conntry. From a city, Subtiaba has degenerated to a municipality, and it is fast "fading and falling away."

The market of Leon is probably better supplied than that of Granada. Pine-apples, melons, oranges, limes, lemons, papayas, pomegranntes, plantains, bananas, beans, corn, nisperos, jocotes, and a variety of other edibles, are clustered together upon the northwestern side of the plaza every morning. The city has but little trade beyond a mere supply of home wants, the principal business being carried on at Chinandega, two leagues from Realejo. However, the stores are well stocked, the merchants rich, and its inhabitants generally landed proprietors.

The Bishop's Baths, beyond the ravine, on the western side of the city, is a beautiful spot. There are a number of stone seats and the remnants of pedestals, no doubt upon which statues were once placed, grouped together under arched, leafy trees. The baths were of stone, and I bathed in the pure water at least more perfectly pleased than I did when swimming in the Lake, for here I feared not the shark nor the alligator. There are many beautiful localities of a similar character about the city. The streets are paved,