bubbles. Fort St. Juan, called also the Castle of Neustra Senora, surmounts the hill at the Castillo Rapids, on the left in ascending the river. It is now in a state of decay; but in its earlier days it had a small battery, mounted with thirtysix guns, whose platform was level with the water, the whole enclosed on the land side by a ditch and rampart. The garrison consisted of one hundred infantry, sixteen artillery-men, and sixty militia, and was also provided with guard-boats, which were rowed up and down the river every night. The fort was provisioned from Granada; and six months stores were always stowed away in the capacious under-ground garners.

There is a variety of climate in Nicaragua, the heat being less on the Pacific than the Atlantic coast. On the former, the rainy season sets in in the early part of May; and with the exception or intervention of fifteen or twenty days in July and the beginning of August, continues till October, and in some sections till November. During the remainder of the year an occasional shower refreshes the heated air, sufficient only to glaze the parched leaves-yet in this dry season, fine fruits are in abundance; and although the crisp grass and wilted leaves evidence drought, or in fact, correspond to our winter, yet with the difference in mid-day, there is no great change in the temperature. The interior is cooler than the coast by about 14° Fahrenheit. On the Atlantic, rains fall

throughout the year with considerable uncertainty; the driest season is from June to October; the wettest from that to May.

From daybreak to 10 A. M., in this country, is always pleasant, and a ride on horseback is enjoyed; from 10 A. M. to 4 P. M. the heat is intense, so much so, that the population. are generally swinging in their casas in their hammocks, save the mariners and washer-women, who are sprinkled over the lake beach at Managua and Granada; from 4 P. M. the temperature is modified by the coming on of night. There seems scarcely a pause between the bright glare of the sun and the mellow rays of the moon: twilight being a dream, or mayhap a memory of a far-distant land.

The evenings are delightfully agreeable, and the air pure, so much so, that a party conversing in the usual key, may be interpreted at the distance of a square, and I have frequently been able to follow the air of some serenader, distant at least three-fourths of a mile.

The rainy season is the most pleasant, the thermometer ranging from 78° to 880, rarely below 72° in the night, and rising to 90 in the afternoon. At Granada, in June, 82°; in Leon, in July, August and September, 83°; and a strong breeze sweeps from the lake, rendering the nights just such as guarantee refreshing sleep. In the dry season, in January, the temperature is less occasionally cool; every thing is filled

with dust; clouds of grasshoppers sweep over the forests, devour the leaves of the trees and vines, and leave a ghostly picture of desolation and aridity behind. I remember, during a ride from the little Indian village of Nindiri to Managua, in company with several friends, meeting a host of these rapacious banditti. We were in the midst of a forest; a cloud seemed to hang over our heads; a rattling among the dried leaves of the trees attracted our attention, resembling sand thrown on blotting-paper, though louder. Wherever we turned, there this living cloud extended. We found, upon reaching the outskirt of the woods, that an immense body of grasshoppers were winging past us, leaving leafless bushes, trees, and a trail of barren, poverty-stricken herbage. We pushed forward, in a fast walk, and judging by the time occupied, we estimated this moving mass to have been at least four miles long by three miles in breadth. This is not an uncommon visit, nor do I over-estimate the extent of this described party of insects.

Years agone, their devastation was so great, that prayers were offered up in all the churches of the State. The towns were filled with them-the yards, rooms, barracks, and churches; wherever there was a void, there they went. Prayers were unavailing, useless, till one morn, at daybreak, a mighty rushing was heard overhead. A terrible crash, a battling, as it were, of wings, mingled with cries and shrieks.

SAN MIGUEL'S GREAT BATTLE.

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On came the heavy cloud, and far above, clad in angelic armor, San Miguel was seen driving the enemy back, and at every blow massacring myriads. As the sun rose fully up, the scene on Nature's canvas grew fainter, the cries less distinct, yet the sword of the patron saint was seen still battling. The enemy was routed; the country safe. So runs the story.

These same insects, or their progeny, returned there during my stay in the country, and seemed to have all the fun to themselves. However, they did not settle there, but only paid a flying visit, leaving ample room for other adventurers, whose patron saints were strong arms, whose advent was sure, and whose dispersion was at least uncertain.

CHAPTER II.

DISTRICTS, POPULATION-TOWNS, POPULATION-GRANADA, ITS ARCHITECTURE, CHURCHES, STREETS, CARTS, WASHING AND WASHER-WOMEN-SAN CARLOS, THE COMMANDANTE'S HOUSE, THE OLD FORT, THE CUSTOM HOUSE-LAKE

NICARAGUA-RIO FRIO-LA

BOQUETA-ISLANDS-VIRGIN

BAY AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY-SAN MIGUELITA-SAN JORGE, ITS PAROCHIAL CHURCH -ROAD TO RIVAS.

THERE are six districts in this State: viz., Rivas; Chontales, Granada, Massaya, and Managua; Leon and Chinandega; Matagalpa; Segovia; and Guanacaste. From a late census return, the combined population amounts to two hundred and sixty-four thousand :-Rivas, twenty thousand; Chontales, Granada, Massaya, and Managua, ninety-five thousand; Leon and Chinandega, ninety thousand; Matagalpa, forty thousand; Segovia, twelve thousand; and Guanacaste, seven thousand. There are about twenty towns, varying in population from five hundred to thirty thousand. Rivas, or ancient Nicaragua, has about eleven thousand; Granada, fifteen thousand; Massaya,