THE GOOD OLD RULE.

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for about one dollar and twenty cents a pair. Hats at various prices. Rent is very low. For eight dollars per month, I took a house in the centre of the city, nearly adjoining the Church of La Mercedes, containing three large rooms, with a kitchen, an immense yard, and large stable attached. I deemed this very reasonable, but my friends thought it more than sufficient.

The customs are extremely primeval, and I was never offended by any rudeness or incivility. I found the old rule always brought me out right in the end-Do as you would be done by. And yet I have heard of extreme cases of duplicity, particularly toward foreigners, by those in power. There is little for outsiders to hope for, when a nation is wanting in faith to its own.

CHAPTER V.

RIVAS-THE HOMBRE-LEONEZE-AZTECS-THEIR MONUMENTS-BETWEEN RIVAS AND GRANADA-OBRAJE-GIL GONZALES-A LUXURY-SNAKES-HINTS FOR THOSE GOING TO NICARAGUA-BOA CONSTRICTORS-TIGRES-TIGRE NEGRO

SOLDIERS-MONOPOLIES-INCIDENT IN MANAGUA-A FLOGGING.

RIVAS was once the seat of a Mexican colony, governed by a Cazique, Niquira. The dirty hómbre, who bears prodigious. burdens of corn upon his back, and who hesitates at nothing for a little money, can readily be traced to this origin. Indeed, in the various districts of Nicaragua, the inhabitants differ greatly, not only in physiognomy but in manner. Those of Leon, and the interior generally, bear themselves with greater ease, are more enlightened and refined, and evince a studious neatness in their apparel. Upon the volcano of Ometepec, in the midst of the Lake, are the descendants of the Aztecs with

BETWEEN RIVAS AND GRANADA.

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some of their monuments still remaining, though both are in a decaying state. The early padres who accompanied the Soldiers of the Cross, evinced any thing but forbearance toward these dumb statues, from which we might now gather so much. Even those remaining have, in many cases, been hidden by the natives, who yet hold them in reverence.

Within two leagues of Rivas, is a greater population than is found to the same extent in any other portion of the State. The land is well cultivated; between the road to Granada and the Lake, a perfect garden; to the left, voluptuously rolling, at times rising to a little hill, yet every acre capable of cultivation. Its many beautiful sites for haciendas has frequently attracted my attention. Three leagues from Rivas is the large, long town of Obraje, truly an aboriginal production. It is one of several around Rivas, and is a pretty fair sample of them all. Beyond Obraje stretch luxuriant fields, carpeted with waving grass, inviting one to slip from the saddle for a roll; but the sun beats fiercely there, and we jog on through rows of papaya trees heavy with fruit, beautiful gardens well trimmed, and fields of maize rich in promise of an abundant harvest. We ford a stream, where my mule stops to drink and I to rest. This is the Gil Gonzales, so named after the adventurer of whom we have already given an account. Water is appreciated here, for though a mountainous country, streams are scarce. The volcanoes, thirsty fellows, seem to have swallowed them up.

On a bush, by the roadside, hangs something resembling a cart-lash, striped like a barber's pole, and which I am told-to use an English word—is a barber snake, and very venomous. Taking the hint, I give the gentleman a wide margin and pass on. These reptiles are sometimes found where least expected. In Central America the houses rarely have any ceiling to the rooms, and they sometimes hide away in the thatched roofs; occasionally falling upon persons underneath. Those visiting this country should take calico with them for ceilings as well as for canopies to bedsteads. They should also provide themselves with mattrasses, musquito nets, blankets, Indiarubber clothing, hats, strong boots and shoes, knives, pins, percussion caps, and mercurial ointment wherewith to oil the locks and barrels of their guns and pistols.

A stray boa constrictor may also be found on these gorgeous savannahs. At Virgin Bay I saw a very fine specimen, and felt particularly relieved when I learned it was dead. By the roadside I saw two panthers, called tigres or tigers. They are the jaguars or ounces of South America, and are quite numerous here. They are of a tawny color, breast and belly almost white, while the body is variegated with black oblong spots; are from four to five feet in length, and immensely powerful. They attack animals, but rarely man. The tigre negro, or black tiger, is larger, fiercer, and no doubt more powerful; it is of the same species, but scarce.

ESTATE OF GEN. CHAMORRO.

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There are mountain cats, varieties of the tiger species, constantly roaming after fowl and other domestic attachès; but they prove annoyances only, and are not to be dreaded. The coyote, or wild dog, is very scarce, though they exist in the mountain districts. They are said to be descendants of the Spanish bloodhounds, and are sometimes caught, but rarely, or never, tamed or domesticated. The bat is said by some to partake largely of the vampire. Many stories. are told of them, drawing strongly on the marvelous. They are great enemies to horses, and worried mine much. He was a good-looking pony when I bought him; but a sorrierlooking animal when sold, I never wish to see. "Oh! agates and sassafras, stranger," said the sanguine Californian who made the purchase, "what a face! It is made of patchwork! He's the ugliest critter I ever see'd, and by thunder, I'll buy him for a specimen ;" and so he did.

In the stirrup again, and after a brisk dash, a clearing is reached, in which an air of comfort reigns, strongly reminding me of some quiet nook in my own native land. It is a fine old estate belonging to the family of Gen. Chamorro, late President of Nicaragua. It commands a beautiful view of the surrounding country, and is just such a retreat as a statesman or warrior would be likely to seek after retiring from the cares of state. Here the outside world could be forgotten. Chamorro, sprung from an ancient and aristocratic family, was