a prime mover in all public matters, and the Commander-inchief of the forces during the revolution of 1850, and other wars since. He resided in the city of Granada. During my stay there, the troops were regularly reviewed upon the plaza by him, and instructed in military drills.

To an American eye, these troops presented a queer medley. No plumes waving, no gay banners, no brilliant uniforms, but a heterogeneous collection of shirts, bare legs, blanketed Indians from the hills of Matagalpa and Segovia, all banded together under their respective leaders, and as seemingly unconscious of what was to be done, or to be expected, as they were regardless of exposing their natural beauties. Standing on the elevated places, and glancing along the line, reminded one of a worm-fence; here protruded a knee; there squatted a poor Indian, with bow in hand and arrows over his shoulders or by his side. Poor fellow! From the harangues of Rocha, the minister of war, he heard abundance as to "human rights," but his experiences were only hardships, privations, and ceaseless labors.

The veterans were as illy accoutred, and were armed with condemned English muskets, about as dangerous at one end as the other. Besides being bad shots, their muskets were loaded with a cartridge six to seven inches long, so that the chances for life for the poor fellow who carried it, seemed to be increased in proportion to the fewer number of times he

TROOPS-PAY-PUNISHMENTS.

333

53

had to fire. Upon a march from place to place they presented a strange appearance, as they came up a hill, or went plunging through a ditch. Still, they are generally true to their leaders, and armed with their heavy scythe blades, are dangerous opponents. The horror of these gentry are the Colt's revolvers. They can witness a crack shot from a rifle with tolerable composure, but cannot stand the consecutive firing of these dread engines of war.

During these revolutions, resort is had to every means for the enrolment of soldiers. The market-people are taken unceremonionsly from their wares, the sailors from their bongoes, the laboring classes from the ranchos and fields, and a general embargo is laid upon every man capable of shouldering o lifting a musket. Those owning mules hide them, that their property may not be sacrificed for their country's good. Promises are made for payment, yet the issuing of State scrip has been so extensively carried on, that credit is at a low ebb. In perilous times, monopolies of tobacco, liquors, &c., are sold to the highest bidder; but not unfrequently, should the war continue for a length of time, the State deems the consideration money insufficient, and extra sums are demanded.

Punishments are summarily inflicted in the army. One morning in Managua, as I strolled to the Lake beach, I observed an unusual crowd concentrating in the plaza. I asked

what was going on, and was told that some thieves were to be publicly punished. The soldiery, probably five hundred in number, marshalled in due form, the files were opened, and the General-in-chief appeared, heralded with trumpets and drums, and supported by his staff. The criminals were brought from the cuartel, their hands bound behind them, and they were placed in a conspicuous position, to be seen by their comrades. A superior officer, after much drum-beating, read the charge and condemnation in a loud tone. Charge: "Stealing money and knives from certain persons."

Two or three soldiers, at a signal, stepped from the ranks, and took off the shirts of the criminals. "Ground arms !" or its equivalent, "Drop!" "Draw ramrods !" and certain other soldiers advanced. A temporary post was fixed firmly in the ground, to which the thieves were tied alternately, and the whippers commenced their exercise. The blows fell heavily, and the cries of the poor fellows smote upon my heart. Their crime merited punishment, yet the whip, in my opinion, is not the proper instructor, whereby a moral and lasting result is to be attained.

CHAPTER VI.

RIO

OCHOMOGO-OLD STRUCTURE-ADOBE BUILDINGS: THEIR STRENGTH

OLD INDIGO PLANTATION-NANDYME-HORSEFLESH-PRICES-GAITS-HORSE

MANSHIP-MOMOBACHO-ITS ASCENT-GOLD MINE-LAKE ON THE SUMMIT— FRUITS ON THE ROAD-SIDE-DIRIOMO-OLD STATUE-LANDMARKS CORN

ESTATES ANCIENT INDIGO PLANTATIONS-FIELDS OF VOLCANIC MATTER

GRANADA-THE

ALERTE-MUSICAL

ANALYSIS-SYMPATHY-THE

SALVE

REGINA THE TRANSPARENCY-STRANGE EFFECT-HOME AND A HAMMOCK.

ANOTHER stream, washing the sandy road ahead; our nag scents the water, and reinvigorated, quickens his pace. This is the Rio Ochomogo, beyond which, on a hill-side, is a dilapidated old adobe structure, square in form, with open sides and tiled roof. It is used by the muleteers as a stopping-place, and is surrounded with dense forest trees, finer, as a body, than any we have yet seen. These adobe buildings will stand firm in a tropical climate, for many, many years, though time weighs heavily upon all things else. The rich earth producing immense crops of weeds and spontaneous vegetation, greatly

changes the appearance of a rancho in a very short time. A vine creeps over a high wall in a week, and in damp corners a vegetable mould will form so thick in two or three years, as to warrant a stranger in supposing it the work of half a century. I have read wonderful stories of Central America; of estimates formed and deductions drawn relative to the age of a building, a temple, or a wall, from the immense mass of this mould collected thereon. A residence for a little time in this country will satisfy any observing man that too much care caunot be taken in weighing such a matter.

An old indigo plantation is before us, now vacant, though the vats yet remain. The unsettled condition of the country has caused this, together with the great amount of expense and labor involved in raising so precious an article. Still on, is a plain with calabash and forest trees margining the road, and at intervals screening a lovely landscape from the view. Beyond is the Indian village of Nandyme. Large outskirts flank the town, and the generality of the houses are of medium appearance. The land is more clayey, and at times slippery even during the dry season; but in the wet, it is a breakneck ride to trot a mule over this road. Though mounted on a very fair animal, I met frequent of slidings, stumblings, and fallings.

mishaps in the way

Horseflesh here is

valued pretty much according to gait; a fine trotter can be