black broad lace printed round the bottom and before, very handsome." In May he makes this memorandum :- "My wife and I, in the Privy Garden, saw the finest 'she-shirts' and linen petticoats of my lady Castlemaine, laced with rich laces at the bottom, that ever I saw." In the same month he walked in the park "where," he says, "I saw the king now out of mourning, in a suit laced with gold and silver, which it is said was out of fashion." In October he put on a new band, which pleased him so much, that he writes, "I am resolved my great expense shall be lace-bands, and it will set off any thing the more." The notes in his Diary, after 1662, of prevailing modes and changes in dress, become more descriptive, and also deserve to be transcribed.

Extracts.

1663, July 13. The king rode in the park with the queen, who wore "a white laced waistcoat and a crimson short petticoat, and her hair dressed à la negligence, mighty pretty. The king rode hand in hand with her, attended by the ladies of honor. Lady Castlemaine rode among the rest of the ladi ladies, and had a yellow plume in her hat. But above all, Mrs. Stuart, with her hat cocked and a red plume, is now the greatest beauty I think I ever saw in my life."

-October 30. "£43 worse than I was last month. But it hath chiefly arisen from my laying out in clothes for myself and wife; viz. for her about £12 and for myself £55 or thereabout; having made myself a velvet cloak, two new cloth skirts, black, plain, both; a new shag gown, trimmed with gold buttons and twist, with a new hat, and silk tops for my legs-two perriwigs, one whereof cost me £3, and the other 40s. I have worn neither yet, but I will begin next month, God willing."

-November 30.

"Put on my best black cloth suit, trimmed with scarlet ribbons, very neat, with my cloak lined with velvet, and a new beaver, which altogether is very noble, with my black silk knit canons I bought a month ago."

1663-4, February 1. " I did give my wife's brother a close-bodied light-colored coat that I had by me, with a gold edging in each seam, that was the lace of my wife's best petticoat that she had on when I married her. He is gone into Holland to seek his fortune."

15. "The duke (of York)

first put on a perriwig to-day; but methought his hair cut short, in order thereto, did look very pretty of itself, before he put on his perriwig."

-April 18. "To Hide Park, where I have not been since last year: where I saw the king with his perriwig, but not altered at all; and my lady Castlemaine in a coach by herself, in yellow satin and a pinner on."

1664, June 24. "To the park, and there met the queen coming from chapel, with her maids of honor, all in silver lacegowns again; which is new to me, and that which I did not think would have been brought up again."

- November 11. Put on my new shaggy gown with gold buttons and loop lace."

1664-5, March 6. "To St. James'sdid business with the duke. Great preparations for his speedy return to sea. I saw him try on his buff coat and hat-piece covered over with black velvet."

1665, May 14. "To church, it being Whit-Sunday; my wife very fine in a new yellow bird's-eye hood, as the fashion is now."

June 1. "After dinner I put on my new camelott suit; the best that ever I wore in my life, the suit costing me above £24. In this I went to Goldsmith's Hall, to the burial of Sir Thomas Viner [sheriff of London 1648-Lord Mayor 1654]; which hall, and Haberdasher's also, was so full of people, that we were fain, for ease and coolness, to go forth to Paternoster Row, to choose me a silk to make me a plain ordinary suit."

June 11. "Walking in the galleries at Whitehall, I find the ladies of honor dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and their doublets buttoned up the breast, with perriwigs and with hats; so that, only for a long petticoat dragging under their men's coats, nobody would take them for women in any point whatever; which was an odd sight, and a sight that did not please me."

- July 31. "In my new colored silk suit, and coat trimmed with gold buttons, and gold broad lace round my hands, very rich and fine."

September 3. "Put on my colored silk suit, very fine, and my new perriwig bought a good while since, but durst not wear it because the plague was

in Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be the fashion after the plague is done, as to perriwigs, for nobody will dare to buy any hair, for fear that it had been cut off of the heads of people dead with the plague."

1666, October 8. "The king hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter."

13. "To Whitehall; and there the duke of York was just come in from hunting. So I stood and saw him dress himself, and try on his vest, which is the king's new fashion, and he will be in it for good and all on Monday next, and the whole court: it is a fashion the king says he will never change."

15. "This day the king begun to put on his vest, and I did see several persons of the House of Lords, and commons too, great courtiers who are in it; being a long cassock close to the body, of black cloth, and pinked with white silk under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with black riband like a pigeon's leg; and upon the whole I wish the king may keep it, for it is a very fine and handsome garment."

"Lady Carteret tells me the ladies are to go into a new fashion shortly, and that is, to wear short coats above their ancles; which she and I do not like; but conclude this long train to be mighty graceful. 17th. "The court is full of

vests, only my lord St. Albans not pinked, but plain black; and they say the king says, the pinking upon white makes them look too much like magpies, and hath bespoken one of plain velvet."

20th. "They talk that the queen hath a great mind to have the feet seen, which she loves mightily."

November 2. "To the ball at night at court, it being the queen's birthday, and now the house grew full, and the candles light, and the king and queen, and all the ladies, sat; and it was indeed a glorious sight to see Mrs. Stewart in black and white lace, and her head and shoulders dressed with diamonds, and the like many great ladies more, only the queen none; and the king in his rich vest of some rich silk and silver trimming, as the duke of York and all the dancers were, some of cloth of silver, and others of other sorts, exceeding rich -the ladies all most excellently dressed in rich petticoats and gowns, and diamonds and pearls."

tells me the king of France hath, in defiance to the king of England, caused all his footmen to be put into vests, and that the noblemen of France will do the like; which, if true, is the greatest indignity ever done by one prince to another, and would excite a stone to be revenged; and I hope our king will, if it be so."

1666-7, February 4. "My wife and I out to the duke's playhouse---very full of great company; among others, Mrs. Stewart, very fine, with her locks done up with puffs, as my wife calls them; and several other ladies had their hair so, though I do not like it; but my wife do mightily; but it is only because she sees it is the fashion."

1667, March 29. "To a perriwig maker's, and there bought two perriwigs, mighty fine indeed, too fine, I thought, for me, but he persuaded me, and I did buy them for £4. 10s. the two. 31st. To church, and with my mourning, very handsome, and new perriwig, make a great show."

December 8. "To Whitehall, where I saw the duchess of York in a fine dress of second mourning for her mother, being black, edged with ermine, go to make her first visit to the queen since the duke of York's being sick."

1668, March 26th. "To the duke of York's house to see the new play, called . 'The Man is the Master; when the house was (for the hour), it being not one o'clock, very full. My wife extraordinary fine in her flower-tabby suit, and every body in love with it; and indeed she is very handsome in it."

There is a curious trait in the personal character of Charles II. "He took delight," says Mr. Evelyn, "in having a number of little spaniels follow him, and lie down in the bed chamber, where he often suffered the bitches to puppy and give suck, which rendered it very offensive, and indeed made the whole court nasty and stinking."

Wilful Livers.

The mark they shoot at, the end they look for, the heaven they desire, is only their own present pleasure and private profit; whereby they plainly declare of whose school, of what religion they be: that is, epicures in living, and Aθεοι in doctrine. Ascham.

According to Dr. Johnson, a castle is "a strong house fortified;" but this gives little more information than the saying, according to law, "Every man's house is his castle;" or, than the line of a song, which says,

Our house is our castellum.

A castle is a fortress, or fortification of stone, surrounded by high and thick walls of defence, with different works, as represented in the engraving, on which are figures to denote.

1. The barbacan.

2. Ditch, or moat.

3. Wall of the outer ballium.

4. Outer ballium.

5. Artificial mount.

6. Wall of the inner ballium.

7. Inner ballium.

8. Keep, or dungeon.

1. The barbacon was a watch-tower for the purpose of descrying a distant enemy. It seems to have had no positive place, except that it was always an outwork, and frequently advanced beyond the ditch, to which it was joined by a drawbridge, and formed the entrance into the castle.

2. The ditch, which was also called the

mote, tosse, or gra, was either wet or dry, according to the circumstances of the situation; when dry, there were sometimes subterranean passages, through which the cavalry could pass.

3. The wall of the outer ballium was within the ditch, on the castle side. This wall was usually high, flanked with towers, and had a parapet, embattled, crenellated, or garretted, for mounting it.

4. The outer ballium was the space, or yard, within the outer wall. In the bal lium were lodgings, or barracks, for the garrison, and artificers; wells for water; and sometimes a monastery.

5. An artificial mount, commanding the adjacent country, was often thrown up in the ballium.

6 The wall of the inner ballium separated it from the outer ballium.

7. The inner ballium was a second enclosed space, or yard. When a castle had an inner ballium, which was not always the case, it contained the buildings, &c., before-mentioned (4) as being within the ballium.

8. The keep, or dungeon, commonly, though not always, stood on an eminence in the centre; sometimes it was emphatically called the tower. It was the citadel, or last retreat of the garrison, and was generally a high square tower of four or five stories, having turrets at each angle, with stair-cases in the turrets. The walls of this edifice were always of an extraordinary thickness, which enabled them to exist longer than other buildings, and they are now almost the only remains of our ancient castles. In the keep, or dungeon, the lord, or governor, had his state rooms, which were little better than gloomy cells, with chinks, or embrasures, diminishing inwards, through which arrows, from long and cross-bows, might be discharged against besiegers. Some keeps, especially those of small castles, had not even these conveniences, but were solely lighted by a small perforation in the top. The different stories were frequently vaulted; sometimes they were only separated by joists. On the top of the keep was usually a platform, with an embattled parapet, whence the garrison could see and command the exterior works.

Castles were designed for residence as well as defence. According to some writers the ancient Britons had castles of stone; but they were few in number, and either decayed, or so much destroyed, through neglect or invasions, that, at the time of the Norman conquest, little more than their ruins remained; and this is assigned as a reason for the facility with which the Normans mastered the country. The conqueror erected and restored many castles, and on the lands parcelled out to his

follcwers they erected castles all over the

country. These edifices greatly multiplied in the turbulent and unsettled state of the kingdom under other sovereigns: towards the end of the reign of Stephen they amounted to the almost incredible number of eleven hundred and fifteen.

As the feudal system strengthened, castles became the heads of baronies. Each castle became a manor, and the castellain, owner, or governor, the lord of that manor. Markets and fairs were held there to prewent frauds in the king's duties, or customs; and there his laws were enforced until the

lords usurped the regal power, not only within their castles, but the environs, and exercised civil and criminal jurisdiction, coined money, and even seized forage and provision for their garrisons. Their oppression grew so high, that, according to William of Newbury, "there were as many kings, or rather tyrants, as lords of

castles;" and Matthew Paris styles them "very nests of devils, and dens of thieves."

The licentiousness of the lords, and the number of their castles, were diminished by king Stephen, and particularly by his successor Henry II., who prohibited the building of new castles without special licence. His creation of burghs for the encouragement of trade and industry was an inroad upon the power of the lords, by which it was finally subverted.

February 8.

ST. MAGNUS' ORGAN.

1712, February 8. The "Spectator" contains the following notice

"WHEREAS Mr. Abraham Jordan, sen. and jun., have, with their own hands (joynery excepted), made and erected a very large organ in St. Magnus church at the foot of London Bridge, consisting of four sets of keys, one of which is adapted to the art of emitting sounds by swelling notes, which was never in any organ before; this instrument will be publickly opened on Sunday next, the performance by Mr. John Robinson. The above said Abraham Jordan gives notice to all masters and performers that he will attend every day next week at the said church to accommodate all those gentlemen who shall have any curiosity to hear it."

In 1825 the church of St. Magnus the Martyr, by London Bridge, was "repaired and beautified" at a very considerable expence. During the reparation the east

window, which had been closed, was restored, and the interior of the fabric conformed to the state in which it was left by its great architect, Sir Christopher Wren. The magnificent organ referred to in the Spectator; was taken down and rebuilt by Mr. Parsons, and re-opened, with the church, on the 12th of February, 1826.

ORGAN BUILDERS.

Bernard Smith, or more properly Schmidt, a native of Germany, came to England with his nephews Gerard and Bernard, and, to distinguish him from them, obtained the name of "Father Smith." He was the rival of the Harris's from France, and built an organ at Whitehall too precipitately, to gain the

• Grose