Several are bound with a broad Scotch | which, by means of a narrow blond, is tartan ribbon; the bows are also of tartan, || formed a beautiful pattern, in bias, repreand are placed between broad bias folds ofsenting cockle-shells. The body is made satin or velvet, which cover the front of the low, and en gerbe, with a headed falling crown. Sometimes instead of bows are tucker of blond; the sleeves long, and placed aigrettes of black feathers. This of white crape, with mancherons of the however depends on fancy; one is as same colour and material as the dress : fashionable as the other. One very beauti- || these mancherons are formed of two scalops, ful hat of black velvet has been seen on a and are edged round with blond: the sleeves lady of fashion: the crown was ornamented are fastened at the wrists by enamelled by a long branch of foliage, formed of small bracelets, with a large clasp formed of a white feathers. Sometimes we see a black turquoise stone set in wrought gold. hat ornamented with feathers of fire-colour: these are long, and though flat, they droop over the shoulder in the weeping willow style. Bonnets of black satin, lined with yellow satin, and trimmed with yellow ribbon, shaded with fire-colour, are very fashionable. When feathers are adopted on black satin hats, they are often partycoloured; orange-colour, blue, and green. Bows of different ribbon of the same colours as those of the feathers, complete the trimming of these hats. Satin and velvet hats of different colours, trimmed with tartan ribbon, though not so prevalent as black velvet hats, are yet much worn. A gown for half-dress, of drake's-neckgreen merino, is much admired. It is trimmed at the border with two rows of jabots, of gros de Naples, beautifully fluted: these are placed across the border of the skirt in bias, and produce a very elegant effect. The body is made almost high, but has no collar, and is surmounted next the throat by a narrow lace frill: a pelerine cape terminates in front by a point, just beneath the girdle, gradually sloping from each shoulder, till it forms a stomacher before the bust, and imparts a fine breadth to the chest. This cape is trimmed round with a narrow fluting of gros de Naples. A dress, also, of willow-green gros de Naples is equally in favour: it is embroidered at the border in a festoon of spots in black, surmounted by foliage, over a very broad flounce of black lace, which is also festooned. The body is made partially en gerbe, and quite high, with a pelerine cape, fastening behind, and embroidered in the same pattern as the skirt: the sleeves moderately full, and confined at the wrists with enamelled bracelets. Another elegant dress is of grey gros de Naples; with a full puckering at the border, on Our balls now begin to take place. I have seen a dress just completed for a lady of rank: it is of pink satin, with two very broad flounces of white blond; the upper flounce festooned, and the points surmounted each by a bouquet of white marabouts: the body made quite plain, with a broad falling tucker of blond, in front of which is a diamond brooch, set round with rubies; the sleeves short and very full, trimmed with blond. The hair, for the ball-room, is dressed in the Chinese style: on one side of the face is a plain band of hair, on the other a full cluster of curls. The Apollo's knot is very much elevated on the summit of the head, and appears full in front: among the tresses is mingled white and coloured gauze, with marabouts and ears of corn, in diamonds. A white dress-hat has appeared at an evening party, of gros de Naples; with white flat feathers, tipped and edged with pink, and playing over the hat in every direction. Some toques are half of velvet and half of coloured gauze; they are laid in folds on each side, on the temples, and in the front is a bouquet of marabouts or an esprit. The dress-caps are made with double wings, and are of black and white blond: between the wings is a wreath of geranium, the flowers of which alternate with a plait of blond. Turkish toques are ornamented with two crescents, which support two aigrettes placed on in a V. Spanish toques consist of a gold net, and are ornamented with a plume and a gold tassel on the right side. A wreath of white roses is sometimes all the ornament on the hair, and is placed on the summit of the head; while others place a wreath of red-and-white daisies on one side. Pinks pomegranates, and ranunculuses are also favourite flowers for the head. These are detached, and not in wreaths. On some evening head-dresses is a white esprit, in the form of a diadem, with the Apollo's knot fastened by a diamond comb. Berets of ponceau-coloured barêge, striped with black, are ornamented with two esprits; one over the right ear, that on the other side placed much higher. Another headdress is a toque of rose-coloured satin; the border turned up all round, and the crown formed of rouleaux of satin, en treillage: six or seven rose-coloured feathers, curled, are placed in bias, from one side of the toque to the other. A dress-hat of tulle, lined with blue satin, is hollowed out in two places to shew the hair; two languettes, placed in these hollows, are turned up, and two bows fasten them, and serve to support two esprit feathers. They now give the name of beret to almost every kind of turban invented by the milliners, though nothing is more unlike the primitive simplicity of the Bearnese cap, than those preposterously broad coiffures of the present day, which are cut about, and turned all manner of ways. Some of the newest are of three or four different coloured gauzes jumbled together, with a large bow on the top of the crown; whence depend two long ends, fringed, falling as low as the shoulder. It is not possible to describe all the various sorts of berets. These innovations, however, render them not an unbecoming head-dress, and our fashionables are anxiously looking forward for some more novel changes in this favourite covering for the head. The most approved colours are blue, rose-colour, lilac, yellow, fire-colour, violet, orange-colour, and laurel-green. EGYPTIAN COSTUME IN 1826. THE female dancers of Egypt, although they disfigure themselves horribly in dying their cheeks with orange-colour, and staining their eyelids with black, are not destitute of attractions. Their forms are elastic|| and graceful. They are loaded with ornaments of silver and brass; they wear rings round their legs and arms, and smaller ones on their toes, and in their nostrils. Their fondness for dress also evinces itself in the abundance of their necklaces of different coloured Venetian beads, which they wear round their necks. The Nubians, who are far from having the grace or the coquetry of these dancing girls, anoint their hair with a very disgusting composition. They make use for this purpose of an oil extracted from a plant called palma-christi, which is cultivated with great care. They then divide their hair into innumerable little tresses, braided so tight, that they generally last in that state during their whole lives. The following is a description of the dress worn by a wealthy female of Damietta :-Her petticoat was of gold Indian tissue in stripes; her robe was long, and of green velvet, richly embroidered in gold, and worked at Stamboul; it was open in front, and discovered her petticoat, and part of her pantaloons, which were of muslin embroidered with gold. Her foot was delicately small, and had no other ornament than a gold ring round her ancle. She wore no chemise, and her neck was covered by so transparent a gauze, that the contour of her bust was entirely exposed. As for her head, it could not be looked at without the beholder experiencing some fear lest the weight of it might be dangerous to her, at least that of her grotesque headdress. She had a turban formed of heavy folds, twisted, of muslin of every colour that was ever seen, and crowned with an enormous quantity of flowers, besides diamonds and trinkets of every kind, which made her appear like a walking magazin de modes. A long veil of India muslin, powdered over with spangles, was fastened to all these valuable articles, and concealed innumerable tresses of hair and black silk, which descended just below her waist, and to those were attached a quantity of small gold coin, which at the least motion of her head, jingled like the bells on the team of a waggon. Her complexion was fresh and blooming, assisted by rouge; and her eyelids and eyebrows were blackened. |