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next the throat, and the modest colerette simplicity is now adopted. Nothing is over the shoulders, was a becoming, and considered more elegant than a silk, realmost requisite addition to this sort of markable for the beauty of its colour, or, dress. High dresses of the pelisse kind, if figured, for the elegance and ingenuity and not easily distinguishable from pelisses, of its designs, to be made up as plain as form another favourite out-door dress: a possible. We hail this simplicity as the barêge scarf, with the ends drawn through || dawning of good taste, but we repeat, we the sash, or a handsome silk neckkerchief love not extremes. For evening dress, tied round the throat, is the only addi- gowns of white barêge or tulle, trimmed tional covering; and these, when the wea- with five very full rûches, at separate disther is warm, are frequently seen over tances, with the bodies à la Vierge, and the white dresses, and constitute all the en- sleeves en gigot, are expected to be very velope, especially in carriages. The pele- prevalent this summer. Printed cambrics rines, worn by young ladies, are made in and coloured muslins are favourite articles twenty different modes, all equally elegant: for the déjeûné déshabille. Jaconot muslin they are generally of the same material as dresses prevail much as afternoon homethe dress; though we have seen some of dresses; some very richly embroidered, clear muslin, trimmed with lace, over silk others plain and flounced with the same, as represented in our engraving of this style of dress.

gowns.

The cotton hats are in high favour this summer: when they first appeared, two years ago, the approbation they experienced was very cold: they are ingenious in their fabrication, and promise to be as durable as the never-ending Leghorn; as, it is said, they will actually bear washing with soap and water without injury. They are an imitation of the chip, but they have not that lightness; and the faults we find in them are a dead whiteness, and that heaviness which is so unpleasant in the Leghorn; giving a sort of cloth-like appearance to the light head-covering of summer. We have seen a lovely white chip hat for the carriage, elegantly ornamented about the crown in wreaths of corn-flowers and fielddaisies. The strings of the hat were in a long loose loop of shaded ribbon, green and jonquil, a bow of which ribbon was placed on each side of the hair just above the ears. Pink crape bonnets, ornamented with bows of the same, bound round with satin rouleaux, are worn both for the carriage and promenade; for the latter, a black lace veil is added. Leghorn and fine Dunstable are yet in favour: the former are ornamented with ribbons and summer flowers, the latter with ribbons only, disposed with the utmost simplicity. White watered gros de Naples is still a favourite material for hats. Such hats are to be seen every where, and in every style of costume. Broad flounces, with double heads, are favourite ornaments at the borders of gowns; yet in half-dress a very charming No. 19.-Vol. IV.

Small caps of blond are yet the favourite head-dress for home costume, or the receiving of friendly dinner parties; but turbans are now decidedly the coiffeure most preferred: they are extremely large, and have an air of much distinction. Some of them are of an elastic material, of rich and brilliant colours, and are wound several times round and round the head, two superb tassels hanging over the left shoulder : others are something in the beret style, but are immensely wide, and render the head too large for the body. The latter are of coloured crape. The blond caps are very pretty and becoining, and of various shapes; but all small, light, and elegant, and ornamented with flowers. The dress-hats worn by our matrons are still very wide, and too large for an evening head-dress: their brims seem also more extended by the loop under the brim, and another over it, which terminate in a bow over the left eye. Many of these dress-hats are of white crape, and have a double plume of feathers; part rising above the crown, the others placed lower, and playing in every direction about the brim. There are now but few balls; at which, however, the most elegant head-dress for young ladies consists of a few sweet peas, or other summer flowers, slightly scattered over the curls and braids. Small blond caps with open crowns, en squellettes, ornamented with narrow blond rosettes and small flowers, are much worn at the theatres.

F

The favourite colours are yellow, blue, rose-colour, straw-colour, and sea-green.

Cabinet of Taste,

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

THE sweet influence of beneficence is now felt, I believe, in every civilized state in Europe it is in the midst of pleasures that the hand, teeming with bounty, is held || out to suffering humanity. You have relieved, in this manner, the distresses of your manufacturers; and the dance and concert have been made subservient with us to the cause of the afflicted Greeks.

For them luxury spread her attractions, and coquetry her snares; but party and opinion were not thought of; one sole motive animated every one-the succour of courage, oppressed by misfortune. Such has been the spring which has moved our first fashionables to set on foot several fêtes for raising sums by collections to furnish the ill-fated Greeks with arms and money. As the dresses, however, worn on these occasions, relate chiefly to grande parure, I will commence in the usual routine with out-door costume.

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front, with bows of ribbon. Those of gingham are often trimmed round with a narrow quilling of the same. They have all pelerine capes trimmed in the same manner. Such capes are also worn with round dresses in déshabille.

Ribbon and straw mingled together, yet continue favourite ornaments on straw hats. Some Leghorn hats have a full wreath of various flowers grouped together, round the crown; others have bouquets of tulips made of feathers: they are scattered about at equal distances, and are sustained by a bow of ribbon. Many sparterie hats are ornamented with a broad ribbon of damask gauze, yellow and green. This ribbon surrounds the crown; it is puckered below, the upper part brought together in large flutings. White crape hats are often trimmed with plats of yellow straw, sewn very close together, on the brim as well as on the crown. A double aigrette of feathers, placed at the bottom of the crown, completes their trimming. The trimming on blue crape hats consists of ears of maize, and rouleaux of yellow satin: there are about three or four ears of maize, which are fixed by rosettes of ribbon, on the top of the crown and round the brim. The fashionists sometimes make bonnets of sarcenet of the bird-ofparadise yellow, with large brown chequers; sometimes the bonnets are of gros de Naples, white with green stripes: the brims of these bonnets are cut very short at the

ears.

An embroidery of a new description is now seen on organdy dresses: it consists of small flat silk cordons sewn on in different patterns, which produces a very charm

The newest pelisse is of gros de Naples, of a pearl-grey, with a pelerine cape. Muslin canezous are very general, and charmingly made. Many husbands are delighted at these graceful appendages, when they see their wives content to wear a muslin or gingham gown, that does not exceed in cost above twenty, or five-and-twentying effect of embroidery in relief. Others francs. Hélas! les pauvres maris! They have been seen embroidered in coloured know not that an elegant canezou costs worsted; rows of which separate each from sixty to eighty francs, and it is that flounce, the edges of which are also ornawhich gives so charming a finish to a dress mented with a row of coloured embroidery. they so much admire for its modest sim- The sleeves of these dresses are en gigot, plicity. A gown of pink, sulphur-yellow, and are trimmed downwards in scalloped or white organdy, with a clear muslin stripes, in lace of an elegant pattern, and canezou, with long sleeves, and a body fastened at the wrists by a broad gold made half high, without any collar, but a bracelet, with a brooch of white cornelian. double quilling of tulle next the throat, An evening dress of white gros de Naples forms a very elegant out-door dress for a has excited much admiration; it is trimlady of fashion. Déshabille pelisses, formed at the border with flounces cut in the morning wear, have been seen; the greater || shape of cockscombs; and these stand out part of them fastening down the sides in so from the dress, that no part but the top

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Published by G. B. Whittaker for La Belle Afsemblee No 19 new series July 1 1826.

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