« PreviousContinue »
invention, we often see that the priestesses | kind, with the fullness confined all the of the toilet resort to the costumes of an- way up the arm by bands of embroidered cient Greece and Rome, and also to those muslin, at equal distances from each other. of England and France, when at the A pelerine, of an entire novel kind, of, the dawn of polite refinement, when dress be- same material as the dress, and richly ornacame a serious care. In these our re- mented with lace, had the appearance of a searches we have been encouraged to record | French canezou spencer without sleeves : the fashions, in the half-yearly Supplemen- it was left partially open in front, whence a tary numbers of our work, devoted, in other falling collar, turning back on each side, respects, exclusively to polite literature. formed a sort of lapelle, trimmed also with
The fashions for Juls were peculiarly | lace; and this appendage entirely concealbeautiful, forming, as it were, a charming || ed the corsage of the dress. The hair for epitome of the delightful summer weather this style of costume is beautifully arranged which;marked the progress of that month. in clustered curls; and a small cap of rich The carriage costume, which we represent- | blond, with a large full-blown rose on one ed in our engraving, was truly elegant and side, and very long lappets depending over tasteful: one slight defect, however, we each shoulder, completed the dress, with found in it, as nothing is absolutely per-ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets of rubies fect, which was, that the beautiful pelisse and pearls, set à l'antique.-Vide a beautiof the delicate colour of the Persian lilac, || fully finished engraving of an Afternoon had neither cape nor collar, nor frill of Dress for July, page 28. lace, nor colerette ; the throat was lite- The durable and always elegant fashion rally left bare, and being encircled with | of trimming the skirts of the gowns with one row of valuable and immensely large | flounces, was still the most prevailing pearls, this want of ornament on the collar mode. Simplicity in the state of dress of the pelisse became yet more conspi- | began to be observed; we wish it had lastcuous. Otherwise the pelisse was charm- | ed; but we have relapsed into gaudiness. ing: it was of gros de Naples, and fasten- || Of this, however, more in its proper place. ed close down the front; on each side of | Nothing for half-dress was now reckoned which was a pointed facing bound round more elegant than silks, remarkable for with narrow rouleaus, with a tire-bouchon the beauty of their colour and patterns. ornament all round the border next the || When figured they were made up as plain feet. The body was made quite plain; | as possible. Evening gowns were of tulle, the sleeves easy and moderately full, but or white barége, trimmed with four or five not en gigot. The hat was of that new very full rûches, at separate distances; white cotton manufacture resembling chip, the bodies made in the frock style. Printed again introduced with some little success, muslins, and those all of one colour, were but the fashion soon dying away; the ma- favourite materials for dejeuné deshabille : nufacture is durable but not becoming. All the sleeves en gigot. rich white ribbon, the edges trimmed with The pelisses, which were of gros de Nanarrow blond, was fastened in a loop under ples, were made to fasten imperceptibly the hat; an unmeaning fashion imported down the front, and appeared like high from France, which we cannot say we addresses. They were made as plain as posmire. The hat, however, was elegantly sible. Though we are advocates for sim. ornamented with scrolls of white Japanese plicity of attire, this sudden extreme foregauze, and one large full-blown Provence | told the relapse into finery, which has rose; under the brim was placed on each || since taken place. Barêge scarfs, with the side a smaller rose of the same species, ends drawn through the sash, were a fawith two green leaves.-Vide a Carriage || vourite out-door covering over high dresses, Dress, represented in the first engraving or sometimes only a handsome silk handof Fashions for July, page 28.
kerchief was tied round the throat. PeleThe Afternoon Home Dress was beauti- | rines, with long ends of embroidered musfully simple; of fine jaconot muslin with lin, or other light materials, were much five narrow pointed flounces, set on very worn by young persons. full; the sleeves full and of the chemisette The white cotton hats, in imitation of
chip, obtained a partial favour this month: Ribbon and straw mingled formed a their dead whiteness, and cloth-like unbe- favourite trimming on straw hats. The coming appearance, are certainly against Leghorns had full wreaths of flowers, them, and, beautiful as they are, we despair grouped together round the crown; and of seeing them in general request. The bouquels of tulips made of feathers, were light white chips for the carriage were ele- favourite ornaments on hats. The Spargantly ornamented round the crown with terie hats were trimmed with damask gauze blue corn-flowers and field daisies. Trans- ribbon, fluted and puckered round the parent bonnets of pink crape were worn, crown. Transparent hats of coloured crape both for the carriage and the promenade :) were adorned with ears of maize, and routhe addition of a veil rendered them more leaux of satin of a different colour to the suitable for the latter, and was generally | hat. Bonnets of sarcenet, the bird-of-paadopted. The trimming consisted of bows radise-yellow, with large black checquers, of crape bound round with satin rouleaux. were much admired; and these bonnets, as Leghorn and fine Dunstable bonnets were well as those of white gros de Naples, with still in favour : they were ornamented with coloured stripes, were made very short at ribbons and summer flowers.
the ears. tered gros de Naples hats and bonnets were Organdy dresses were ornamented with every where seen, and in every style of dress. an embossment of a novel kind, appearing
Small caps of blond were high in favour like raised embroidery. It consisted of for home costume; but turbans were pre- small silk, flat cordons, if the term be alferred for half-dress: they were very large. | lowable, or, better to express it, narrow Some of them of elastic materials of the silk lacing, of various colours, sewn on in most brilliant colours, and wound, in the different patterns, and producing a very Asiatic fashion, round and round the head, || charming effect. Some Organdy dresses with two rich tassels depending over the were also seen embroidered in coloured left shoulder. Another sort of turban was worsted, rows of which were worked beof coloured crape and made in the berêt tween the flounces round the border ; style. The dress hats, worn by matronly | and the edges of the flounces were also ladies, were very wide and too large for finished by coloured embroidery. The evening head-dresses. Many were of white sleeves of these dresses were en gigot, crape, ornamented with a double plume and were trimmed downwards in scalloped of feathers; part rising above the crown, stripes, in lace of an elegant pattern; the the others placed lower, and falling in sleeves were fastened at the wrists with every direction over the brim. Ball head- | broad gold bracelets, clasped by a brooch dresses for young ladies consisted of a few of white cornelian. A new evening dress sweet peas, or other summer flowers, scat- appeared this month of white gros de Na. tered slightly over the curls and braids. ples, trimmed at the border with flounces, Small blond caps, with the crowns en squelcut in cocks-combs: these were made so lettes, ornamented with rosettes and small to stand out from the dress that no part flowers, were much worn at the theatres. but the top of the flounce seemed to ad
In Paris, the new summer pelisses were here to the gown. The charitable fêtes made with a pelerine cape. Nothing, how- | given for the distressed Greeks was the ever, was so much in favour as a tasteful cause of some novelties in gowns being and expensive muslin, or Organdy canezou displayed. One was of rose-coloured saspencer, profusely ornamented with em- | tin, with bouffont trimmings of the same broidery or lace. A gown of summer co- colour, of satin and crape; these trimlours and materials, worn under these ap- | mings were held up by a bouquet of roses, pendages, constituted the dress of all the ears of wheat, and oats, of silver. Short most fashionable females. Deshabille pe-sleeves were worn with dresses of this lisses, of cambric or muslin, were worn in kind, very short and full. The sashes the morning walks, and were fastened down were of shaded ribbons with long ends, the skirt on one side, by bows of coloured and fastened with a buckle, but no bow. ribbon. It was not unusual to see these | The buckles, and most of the jewellery dresses made of gingham.
ornaments, were à l'antique. Pelerines of
black lace were much worn over white || Aloated loose.—Vide an engraving of a Seadresses: and, at the concerts and other side Dress for August, page 74. evening amusements, the pelerines were of The most approved morning dress was fine lace or embroidered tulle, and were of jaconot muslin, beautifully embroidered pointed: they had an elegant effect over down the sides, in front, and round the dresses of coloured gros de Naples. Morn- | border; with a double pelerine cape falling ing dresses were of printed cambric in a over the shoulders, worked in a correspattern of small sprigs.
pondent manner : the sleeves made almost Caps of blond, adorned with flowers, || close to the arm. A cornette was worn on now took place of the long.cherished the head, shewing very little of the hair, berêts. Coloured turbans were worn at with lappets left loose : between the holthe theatres with a treillage-work of satin lows made by the serpentine wavings of on the crowns, the colour of the crape or the lace were bows, or rather large puffs, gauze which composed the turban. Small of broad pink satin ribbon.-Vide an endress hats prevailed at evening parties, | graving of a Morning Dress for August, and were placed very backward. The page 74. borders en coquilles both before and be- Coloured muslin and Italian net were hind. Basque caps of Scotch tartan were favourite materials for gowns this month : in much favour at the theatres. For the they were of bright summer colours, and ball-room a wreath of blue flowers, with worn over white satin. These dresses pregreen foliage, encircled the hair. Caps for | vailed chiefly at friendly evening parties ; the morning deshabille were made short at they were generally trimmed with bias folds the ears, and whether of muslin or gauze | of satin, the colour of the dress. A fathey were ornamented with much ribbon; vourite half-dress was of light fawn-colourthe crowns were rather high; and thoughed taffety, with two flounces, pinked at the this kind of cap was placed backward it | edges in scallops; the sleeves long and of discovered the nape of the neck.
white crape, or leno; the body made low, Among the most admired novelties in and the tucker part surrounded by a very the jewellery line, were bracelets formed full frill of the same material as the sleeves, of three rows of Egyptian pebbles ; they || edged by a quilling of tulle. This ornawere cut in the shape of a lozenge, and ment gave an unpleasing breadth to the united by little chains of gold.
bust and shoulders, and did not continue In AUGUST fair countrywomen || long in favour. Coloured muslin dresses thronged, as usual, to the different sum- were much worn, even by ladies of the mer haunts, to the different watering-places first distinction. Some of these dresses and the sea-side: the costume for the were trimmed with three flounces; between latter excursion was truly elegant, consist- | the flounces were patterns worked in beauing of a dress of fine East-India muslin, || tiful embroidery, in silk : the bodies were with a broad trimming at the border of made plain, and the sleeves en gigot. A lace en jabots, between which was worked | muslin pelerine, with a double collar, and on the muslin the most elegant embroidery. | trimmed with lace, rendered this sort of
The body was made partially low en gerbe, dress an elegant out-door costume for this and encircled round the waist with a belt of
summer month. For morning dresses and celestial blue ribbon; a chemisette tucker for home costume, printed muslins, partidrew round the neck, nearly as high as the || cularly in checquered patterns, were prethroat. The sleeves were not very wide; || valent. For evening parties, the gowns and were surmounted with mancherons, à | were chiefly of coloured gauze, with satin la Psyche : these were formed of muslin stripes: they were trimmed with crêpe edged with lace. The wrists were encir- | bouillone, of the same colour as the dress. cled by broad gold bracelets, fastened with The bodies were of white satin, made very an emerald. The hat worn with this dress | low at the back and shoulders, with drapewas of white gros de Naples, fancifully ries of gauze across the bust and back, ornamented with gauze and blond, with || and a tucker of blond in large plaits; with a tulips of different colours. The strings of sash of satin ribbon, the colour of the gown. the hat were of celestial blue ribbon, and White pelisses of embroidered muslin
were much in favour in the country, for through the day, when at home, with the morning walks. Scarfs of lace or blond | addition of a few flowers; and the pendant were very much in request in the public | lappets, confined under the chin at the walks and in carriages: they were pointed breakfast table, floated loose the remainder behind like a handkerchief, and triple pele- l of the morning. Turbans of richly striped rines of blond, both white and black, were gauze, both white and coloured, were more among the elegant novelties of the day. | in favour for half-dress than caps. Young The borders worked on these beautiful ladies wore only their own hair in plaits, summer articles were of the most rich and || ringlets, and large curls, as might best varied patterns : they had long ends, which || suit their features. Flowers, when worn were drawn through the sash, and they either on caps or on the hair, were but fastened at the throat with a bow of co- || sparingly scattered. Diadem combs of loured ribbon. Cachemire shawls, and pearls were much admired for dress evening those of silk, of a corn-flower blue, with || parties. At Vauxhall, dress hats were the a splendid border of palm-leaves in different | prevailing mode amongst the most distin, colours, were much in favour; and pe- guished classes. They were also worn at lisses of gros de Naples, the colours of || dress parties in the country. They were every shade of light summer tints were of gros de Naples, the colour a French seen in great numbers. They were chiefly white, and were adorned with roses and trimmed with bias rouleaur, but the modes hedge foliage of different colours. They in which these were disposed were so va- were placed very backward, discovering all rious, that it is not possible to say which the face; which, if rather broad, was by was most in favour, except that the man- no means embellished by these roundner of placing them seemed most preva- || brimmed hats; while the small thin visage lent, which gave to the pelisse the appear-| looked like an oblong spot in the middle of ance of a tunic robe. When the pelisses a full moon. were of striking and refulgent colours, Paris experienced the same degree of they were made quite plain. Over high, heat as the city of London; even the light: and half-high white dresses, barége scarfs, | canezou spencer of muslin or Organdy was of beautifully variegated shades, were uni- || found too heavy for the delicate females versally adopted. During the intense heat of France; and elegant scarfs of black lace experienced this month, many ladies wore or white blond were preferred in out-door only as an out-door covering over their costume. When the weather varied a litdresses a simple fichu of this light and de- 1 tle, the pelisse of Parma violet-coloured licate material,
gros de Naples was adopted; and this The Leghorn hats were very large, quite elegant envelope was trimmed down the round, and simply trimmed with a band of front of the skirt and round the border ribbon, with a bow on one side of the with a rûche of mingled violet-colour and same. A few dress hats of that becoming amber. material, the open straw, made their ap- Leghorn hats were often ornamented pearance this month; but though much ad- with five or seven long feathers; and mired, did not become general. They were others of the same material were trimmed lined with pink, and ornamented with with a cordon of different flowers with a white gauze and satin rouleaux, with a few few blades of grass. White chip and small roses and palm-leaves elegantly dis- white cotton hats were prevalent: the faposed among the puffings of gauze. Hats vourite mode of ornamenting the latter of light-coloured gros de Naples, with the was by branches of foliage without flowers. strings left untied, prevailed, both in car-|| A hat appeared this month of celestial riage and walking costume: they were or- blue gros d'Eté: it was trimmed with strawnamented with crape or gauze, and flowers colour of the same material in long puffs, were added when for the morning ride or and ears of corn. Many of the Leghorn the public walk.
hats were trimmed with two ribbons, each Deshabille head-dresses consisted of tulle of different colours, in bows; they were cornettes, with bows of coloured satin rib- ornamented with a plume of cocks' feabon. Caps of this kind were often worn thers, part of which was green, the other
part of some contrary and dull colour. | season, was now conspicuous in every artiThese hats were in the Swiss shape, and cle of female attire. Round dresses of were sometimes trimmed with two different || gros de Naples, made partially high, with coloured ribbons, sewn together. Sparterie | no additional out-door covering, except a hats were trimmed with bias folds of double Vandyke colerette-pelerine, of clear Scotch tartan sarcenet.
muslin richly embroidered, formed a beauDresses of coloured muslin were oina- tiful summer costume. These dresses were mented with a broad border, formed of generally of brown, or some other unobnarrow flounces reversed. A muslin ca- trusive colour, and were trimmed at the nezou, with a richly embroidered belt, was border with three flounces fluted, and set worn with this kind of dress. Light co- on in scallops. The corsage was laid in loured summer silks, spotted with black, || small plaits, and fitted exactly to the shape; prevailed this month. White dresses con- the sleeves en gigot, and laced down the tinued in favour, trimmed with three broad | most visible part of the arm, with silk muslin flounces, cut in sharp scallops. || cordon, en carreaux, each diamond finished Some of these flounces were seen bound by a silk button. A transparent hat of with colours. The antique ornaments on white crape, bound with sarcenet the cothe wrists were too long;. so much so, | lour of the dress, and ornamented with that the points reached half way up the puffs of the same, was finished by two suarm : they were en rûches, in embroidery perb ostrich white feathers, waving over or lace, and were fastened down by a beau- | the left side: the hair, which was much tiful button.
discovered on one side, was in full clusEmbroidered tulle was the favourite ma- tered curls. Evening dresses were of coterial for long sleeves, which imparted ele- | loured crêpe-lisse over white satin; the gance to the most simple dress; especially founces, of which there were three falling when such sleeves appertained to a cane- over each other, and beautifully embroizou of tulle. Short sleeves, which were | dered at the edges, cut in points shaped sometimes worn at evening dress parties, like a strawberry, or vine leaves. The were finished round the arm by a quilling body was laid in small plaits very far from of tulle. Bracers, the same as the sash, | each other, forming only a pleasing fullwere a prevailing mode with these dresses. |ness, especially to ladies who might be A favourite evening dress was of white wanting in en bon point : the sleeves short crape trimmed with rûches, with which and very full, terminating with a narrow were worn bracers of richly shaded ribbon.frill of blond about thc middle of that Ball dresses were often seen of rose-co- part of the arm which is above the elbow, loured muslin, embroidered with white where they were confined by a band of cotton.
satin the colour of the dress. A falling Coloured gauze ribbons were mingled tucker of very broad blond surrounded the among the hair in so ingenious a manner, bust. The hair, with this style of dress, that they formed a sort of béret, and made was often arranged in the Egyptian mana very pretty summer evening party head- || ner, with only a handsome sprig of pearls dress; on which occasions married ladies in front. wore dress hats of coloured crape with The dresses for the promenade, or for white marabout feathers. Small caps, al- | home costume, were of gros de Naples, most covered with roses, formed the fa- | usually of some summer colour; and a vourite coiffeure at the theatres; and for spencer of white jaconot muslin was often full dress the toques were of tulle embroi- | worn with them. Flounces on all dresses dered with pearls, with leaves of coloured seemed to be preferred to every other satin, to which were attached a flower sort of trimming, except the dress was formed of pearls. The bérets were flat on striped, then bias folds produce a very the summit of the head; on the right tem- charming effect by the disposition of the ple was an aigrette of marabouts; on the stripes, and rendered such dresses, when left a bird-of-paradise.
the colours were rich and varied, truly deIn SEPTEMBER, the elegance of fashion serving of the favour they enjoyed. We at the commencement of the autumnal || cannot say much for the beauty of the