corsages this month; they were chiefly a l'enfant, in plain English, like that of a child's drawn frock, which does not set off the shape to advantage; it cannot even conceal an ill-formed waist, nor add any grace to a slender and well-turned contour. Ball-dresses were simple, generally of coloured crape, trimmed with gauze puffings,|| caught up, sometimes by a small bouquet, in that unmeaning fashion, on one side. Striped muslins and ginghams were worn at the breakfast-table, but no longer in the day; they were made like wrapping pelisses. The summer was a long one, the weather mild and delightful, and white dresses yet prevailed in demi-parure, and for receiving friendly parties at home. The hats and bonnets were still large,|| but their shape was very becoming: they were much shorter at the ears; so that small faces and delicate features did not appear buried in those enormous slouches which prevailed during the spring and a great part of the summer. The hats for the public walks were often transparent, and formed of crape and stiffened net. Bonnets of white gros de Naples were also seen in the same style of dress, and in carriages; when they were profusely ornamented with flowers. Bonnets of a close description were worn in the retired, and morning walk, and these, if white, had generally a falling trimming of blond at the edge: if of Leghorn, they were too large to render this appendage requisite, or, indeed, convenient. when put on well, they were becoming, and being of coloured crape, if the tint that suited the complexion was studied, they were universally admired. The feathers added to these head-dresses at evening parties, were white, and tipped with the colour of the crape which formed the turban. Blond caps were worn in half dress, and ornamented with full blown roses, and other large flowers. The Cornettes for morning costume were, as usual, of thread lace and tulle. In PARIS, Scotch tartan was still in high estimation; particularly in scarfs, which were made with a fichu point behind. These scarfs, when worn over a high dress, were, in general, the sole out-door covering, even if the weather was chill. A few pelisses, however, of gros de Naples, of the most bright summer colours, appeared, and were trimmed in a most tasteful and novel manner: they fastened imperceptibly down the front, so that, being often flounced round the border, they had the appearance of a high dress. The newest mode of trimming them, however, was by a very rich festoon en rúche, which was carried down each side in front, and went all round the pelisse: next the shoe was a full rouleau, concealing the hem, of crape, the colour of the pelisse; which gave so much of dress to this envelope, as rendered it fit only for carriage costume. Silk and satin spencers partially displayed themselves; but though the fashion-mongers of Paris endeavoured again to introduce The general mode of dressing the hair this smart and convenient part of dress was in full clustered curls; though some for walking, they almost despaired of its ladies, and those of distinction, preferred ever holding the place of favour it once the arranging of their tresses à la Ma- possessed. The spencers that did appear donna. Young ladies, this month, were were well made, and formed a very atseldom seen with any other ornament than tractive costume over an India muslin their own lovely tresses, the gift of all-dress, with broad flounces finished by exbountiful Nature; and these were arranged quisite embroidery. in the most elegant and diversified manner. If, however, on a ball-dress, flowers composed a part of the trimmings, then a few of the same kind were scattered sparingly on the head, and always mingled with the little blue flower "Forget me not ;" which is peculiarly becoming to auburn or light hair. Turbans were again highly in favour with matronly belles, and surely there is no head-dress so suitable or becoming to them. They were large, rather too much so; but The chip hats, which have been in high estimation during the whole summer among the Gallic belles, were ornamented with flowers or feathers of two different colours. The Leghorn hats were chiefly trimmed with Scotch tartan ribbons, very rich in their kind, and bearing an enormous price. The manner of employing these ribbons in the ornamenting of Leghorn hats, was in large bows, of which there were so many that they completely covered the crown, and a very great part of the brim. When Leghorn hats were worn in carriages, they were trimmed with white satin ribbon and long white ostrich feathers; these hats were not large, though somewhat in the shape of those enormous head-coverings called the pilgrims' hats. When ladies among the higher classes wore straw hats in the morning walks, they were very simply adorned only with ribbon. These hats were more in vogue for that style of dress than Leghorn: the ribbons were composed of two, of different colours, sewed together, and generally striped; so that the two ribbons, which were of a striking contrariety to each other, formed, by being so united, a most curious and dazzling|| variation of colours. Blue, or other lightcoloured crape capotes, with a very full rûche at the edge of the brim, were worn only by those fantastical ladies of fashion, who wish to be singular, called by the French, les Merveilleuses. They have for ornaments ribbons of yellow gauze and two bouquets of flowers, placed various ways, as whim or fancy may direct. Ball dresses were of light-coloured crape, or of flock gauze. They were elegantly made, and much labour was bestowed on their trimming, which rendered them more fit for dancing parties in town, than for the fête champêtre, where simplicity of dress is generally more conspicuous. Dresses of white crape, ornamented with six rows of satin, were worn at evening parties, where full dress was requisite. White dresses, worked in coloured embroidery, prevailed much some were finished in this manner with festoons of branches, all in one colour: the festoons were double, and in four rows; they were separated from each other, about a hand's breadth, and in this space were worked detached bouquets of flowers. Three very narrow flounces, close together, were placed next the shoe : these were of plain muslin, but were caught up in different places with cordon, the colour of the embroidered festoons. pins, flowers, and pearls: the heads of these pins, which form a crazy looking head-dress, at best, were of wrought gold, and very large. In half-dress, bows of ribbon formed a favourite ornament on the heads of young females, either married or single; in which style of costume small dress caps, ornamented with field flowers, were prévalent. In OCTOBER, the sombre tint which generally prevails in the mornings of that month, began to hang over our metropolis. Partial arrivals set the marchandes de modes in agitation; and though they could produce nothing very decisive, they began to prepare appropriate articles for that period which, with its accompanying gloom and cold, was about to visit us. It was, however, still mild; and the fashionable fair one, as she reclined on her sofa, felt a languor that forbade the winter clothing. The declining season, however, warned her of the etiquette of fashion, which no longer allowed her to adopt the thin garment of summer. For such, an elegant Asiatic kind of home costume, a medium between winter and summer, was invented. Of this we have given an engraving in our records of fashion for October. A robe of celestial blue taffety, without sleeves, was in the Circassian style, and discovered a muslin dress beneath, plaited en chemisette; finished at the throat by a quilling of thread tulle: the sleeves of white muslin, confined by gold bracelets studded with valuable gems. The muslin skirt of this dress was about a hand's breath longer than the coloured robe. The head-dress was an Oriental turban of crape or sarcenet, the colour of the outward dress: it had no ornament, and discovered but little of the hair. The turban was fastened by a narrow frill of plaited tulle under the chin. The weather, as we observed above, was nevertheless so mild, that even our watering places were not entirely thinned. A new marine dress appeared; but it was of The head-dress for grand parure, was striped gros de Naples, and well lined. The either a Mexican tiara of white marabout body was made close to the shape, and, on feathers, or three or four white feathers some days which were particularly warm, placed on one side of the head, very ladies were seen on the sea beach with short, and generally of the light marabout white muslin sleeves to these dresses, and kind. Young ladies, on the same splendid || a pelerine of muslin. All this, however, is occasions, adorned their hair with Glauvina very wrong in a climate like ours; fogs Supplement to Vol. IV. ЗА and chill easterly winds come on, before we are aware, and nip the fair flower of youth and beauty before its time. We cannot refrain from calling this an indiscreet dress. We speak our minds, because we are the fervent admirers of the fairer part of the creation, and wish to see them in health; for health is the greatest auxiliary to beauty; and we, who make fashion our study, for the sake of the fair, know that every season has its proper costume, which serves to add grace and attraction to that beauty. But on a deceitful morning in October, when a lady returns after a seaside walk, with her skin puckered up into what is vulgarly, yet not unaptly, termed goose-skin, does she then look beautiful? O, no! au contraire. This is digression, remarks the reader. Granted; for we write from the impulse of strong feelings of interest in the cause of beauty. bon. Winter silks, among ladies advanced in life, but who yet mingle in stylish parties, made their appearance: the colours were not dark, but cheering, and looking well by candle-light; such as ruby, or bright geranium, with rich stripes of a different colour. Young persons, at evening parties, wore dresses of gauze, trimmed with a broad puckering of the same, on which were placed bows of ribbon: white, if such were the dress, but if it were of coloured gauze, then the ribbon bows were of the same hue. In London, the outdoor costume was determined by the weather. At one time might be seen the smart and elegantly made pelisse of gros de Naples, which, though its summer hue was cheering, seemed by its close envelopment of the female form to mark approaching winter: then, on another day, would the bright beams of an autumnal sun present the "Cynthia of the minute" with only a light barêge scarf over a high dress, or the muslin pelerine, more judiciously chosen, because it is warmer than it appears, over a dress of gros de Naples.-In open carriages we were happy to see, howsoever mild the weather, that the fair were provided with their warm opera cloaks, to be ready for immediate adoption, should the weather turn chill, or should the different avocations of visits or shopping keep them out to a later hour than they had intended. Many of these useful and elegant cloaks appeared this month in all the freshness of new fashion: they were not made with mantelet capes, but the more useful hood predominated. The hat then generally worn with this indiscreet dress was appropriate enough to the season: it was of white gros de Naples, or Leghorn, and ornamented with coloured sarcenet, and large double garden poppies. Muslin dresses were yet worn in half dress, and they were richly embroidered. Three full flounces were worked at the edges, in the most elegant pattern : over the upper one was a row of splendid embroidery. The bodies were made partially low, and ornamented round the bust with points à l'antique. The sleeves wide at the top, but not en gigot; and coronet bracelets of pure gold confined them at the wrists. The bodies of some gowns were made very full, the fulness confined all round the waist by narrow straps across. Leghorn hats prevailed; and had, for White sleeves were usually worn with the promenade, only a simple band of ribcoloured dresses, with pointed mancherons || bon round the crown, with strings of the of the same colour as the gown. These same, tying the bonnet close under the chin: sleeves were en gigot, and had antique at the edge of the brim was a rûche of silk points at the wrists with a bracelet of dark pinked in scalops, the rûche alternately hair fastened by a cameo. A low dress of blue and white. Crape bonnets of lemontulle over white satin was seen at a dress colour were worn in carriages, trimmed dinner party, superbly ornamented round with pink and purple shaded ribbon; with the border with rûches and embroidery: very full and large pink flowers of the the corsage was of white satin made quite Turk's-cap kind: the shape of these bonplain, and fitting close to the shape: the nets was peculiarly becoming, and the size sleeves were long and lined throughout with moderate. The ribbons forming the strings satin. On the outside of the arm, the were left untied. Bonnets of gros de Nawhole length of the sleeve, was let in a ples were not made separate from the very broad lace, of the finest texture and lining, but were doubled over the shape, most beautiful pattern, which was set off the lining and outside being of one piece, by having under it a broad pink satin rib-so that they appeared slightly fluted. They were ornamented with puffs, of the same material, divided by bouquets of single hollyhock blossoms of various colours. Open straw hats and bonnets were trimmed with ribbons of two different colours. The head-dresses for evening parties were not very suitable or becoming to|| females of a certain age, whom we saw adopting such. The hair, next the face, was arranged in full, large curls; and on|| the summit of these curls was placed a wreath of full-blown roses, larger than nature, one red, the other white, alternately, till they more than encircled half of the head; at the back of which was a small fichu of some conspicuous colour, worked in gold. Younger ladies placed near the back of the head a splendid comb of diamond-cut polished steel. Turbans of Japanese gauze, satin, and blond, of a French white, were much in favour at friendly dinner parties; as were dress caps of blond and tulle, tastefully ornamented with flowers and pink ribbon. Dress turbans were of coloured gauze, and were ornamented on each side with white marabout feathers. Bracelets were never so much worn: they were of macao, gold, or plaited hair. The ear-pendants were of wrought gold. Trinkets of all sorts were too prevalent; three or four bracelets sometimes on each wrist, and the fingers, if the hand were ever so ill formed, were loaded with rings. and the canezous, either of muslin or Organdy, declined only with the warmth of the weather. Many carriage hats were of Leghorn, trimmed with white sarcenet, in bows, and ornamented with a bird-of-paradise plume; the strings in a loop, of white sarcenet ribbon. White chip hats, also, were yet seen in carriages, with broad, pink, brocaded ribbon; a plume of marabouts ornamenting each side of the crown. These hats were wide, and appeared more so by a bow of ribbon, placed on each side, at the extremity of the brim. Chip and Leghorn hats were generally of a round shape. The fronts of the bonnets were square, and discovered much of the face: at the ears they were so very short, that a portion of the cheeks was seen. The close capotes were of a light-coloured silk, trimmed with bows of Scotch tartan ribbon. White crape hats were much in favour, trimmed at the edge with three bias folds; two of satin, with one of crape between their ornaments consisted of feathers and flowers. over bright colours at evening parties. White dresses were yet prevalent this month: they were of jaconot muslin; and the most admired mode of trimming them at the border, was with three rows of muslin bands, in horizontal puffs, edged with narrow lace: over the upper row of these ornaments was a strait band, finished in the same manner; the corsage square and In PARIS, this month, another benefit low. White long sleeves were all the rage, was given to the unfortunate Greeks, which even with coloured dresses. Ball dresses drew together a brilliant crowd, arrayed in were simple; generally white, and the the most fashionable and elegant costume. || bodies made à la Vierge, with narrow lace The out-door covering, during the suc-plaited round the tucker part. Transcession of mild days this month, was but parent dresses of gauze, or tulle, were worn slight. A handsome fichu of the barêge || kind was worn over a white dress: this handkerchief was finished all round by a border of points of some very striking colour, answering to, but not of the same tint as the fichu. A sash of broad, shaded|| ribbon, confined the ends, and hung in long streamers on one side. Square shawls of white barêge, trimmed round with rib-|| bon, were also much worn over coloured dresses of gros de Naples. Pelisses of green levantine were the most novel of that kind of covering, but of these there were but few seen. Cachemire shawls, when the weather was chill, were more prevalent; Berêts, still favourite head-dresses, were composed of tulle, puffings of which, mingled with ribbon, were placed all round, so that they were rendered by this ornament much too large to be becoming: they were placed very much on one side. This head-dress, when unornamented by flowers or feathers, was rendered somewhat novel by being tied under the chin with broad ribbon. White toques of blond, with silver bandeaux, were worn in full dress. The plumes added to these toques were of the most elegant kind. Young persons ornamented their hair with wreaths of jessamine, or with bows of ribbon. The small dress caps were formed of blond, with long lappets of broad coloured ribbon, edged round with narrow blond; the ribbon the same colour as the flowers on the cap. The dress hats were of white chip, slightly turned up all round; with two rows of marabouts placed one above the other; these feathers apparently fastened by two rosettes of gauze ribbon. At the commencement of NOVEMBER the pelisses, though close-made, were still of light colours, and chiefly of gros de Naples: rich braiding or embossments, either in embroidery or of raised foliage, of delicate workmanship of the same material as the dress, ornamented each side of the bust, and of the sides of the skirt, in front. A pelerine cape, elegantly ornamented round with a full rûche, fell over the shoulders, and this was surmounted by a double colerette of India muslin trimmed with lace. Mantles were, however, more in favour for out-door costume than pelisses; they were chiefly of gros de Naples, but those of levantine certainly hung best over the form. The favourite colour for these useful carriage envelopes was brown or slate-colour, lined with bright geranium, or with rose-colour. A few pelisses of vermillioncoloured velvet, trimmed with ermine, were seen in carriages towards the latter end of this month. White muslin dresses, though laid aside with some reluctance, were seldom seen except at the breakfast-table; they were profusely ornamented with lace; and pelerine capes, adorned with the same expensive material, were worn with them; the capes temporary, to be adopted or thrown off at pleasure. Dresses of gros de Naples, of some light and beautiful colour, such as pink or canary-yellow, checquered with narrow lines of black, in diamonds, were much in fashion, especially in demi-parure. Evening-dresses were of coloured crêpelisse, trimmed in various modes, One favourite ornament was a full puffing of the same material as the dress round the border, the puffs confined by bias straps of gauze bound with satin. Ball-dresses were in the form of Arcadian robes, edged round with rouleaux of satin and narrow white blond. The bodies of all eveningdresses were made low at the shoulders, but high across the bust: this gives a most disproportionate breadth to the female chest, while the fine contour of the bust was totally concealed; and the appearance given to a delicate female was that of a brawny-chested Hercules. Black dresses, as is generally the mode at this season of the year, were much worn both at dinner and evening parties: satin, velvet, and gros de Naples, were the materials of which these sombre garments were made. They were, however, appropriate to the season, and well calculated to set off the innumerable articles of jewellery which, of late, had been the rage: when dresses were of velvet, whether black or coloured, they had much white satin about the corsage; which was well judged, as the early part of the winter season caused such dresses to look heavy if all black. Gowns for full dress had the sleeves made very short and full. Large black velvet bonnets without any ornament were, as last winter, deemed most elegant for the promenade. Coloured satin bonnets, especially violet-colour, with a black blond at the edge of the brim, were much in favour for the carriage. They were ornamented with puffings of the same material as the bonnet, and with detached bouquets of flowers, of rich bright colours, suitable to winter. Black satin bonnets, also, trimmed in the same manner, were seen both in carriages and in walking costume. A few white bonnets, for paying morning visits of ceremony, were yet seen in carriages; but they were fast declining to give place to the tasteful hat of the same colour as the rich winter pelisse; or the still more admired black velvet, with elegant plumage, either black, white, or variegated. Small dress caps of blond, if caps they might be called, formed an elegant headdress for those ladies who had fine hair. They consisted of two bias pieces of satin, either white or coloured, according to fancy: these joined together made a sort of caul, open at the top, through which the hair appeared in curls, or upheld by a handsomely ornamented comb. A rich Venetian blond border, of a Vandyke pattern, constituted the border; and bows of striped gauze ribbon, with various hedgeflowers, and a few palm-leaves, were scat |