W

tered over the head-piece; two long lap- | lin, the colour pink or blue, lined with
pets of broad blond depended from each white satin, were much admired for the
side. The breakfast cornettes were plain, carriage; they were ornamented with a
and their shape not becoming: they were broad trimming of swansdown.
made with peaks in front, in the Mary Hats of plush silk, the colour of the
Queen of Scots style, which requires the bird-of-paradise, were worn in morning
hair to be well dressed: the plain morning walks. They were trimmed with Talma
chevalure is by no means suited to this ribbons. Black satin spotted with the
sort of cap. Turbans of bright geranium | same colour as the hat. Veils of black
gauze, mingled with folds of gold gauze, lace were worn with black satin, or with
were much in favour for the theatres. || black velvet hats. Bonnets of rose-colour-
This head-dress looks particularly well by ed satin were finished at the edge by black
candle-light. Dress-hats, ornamented with blond; and velvet flowers of black and
pearls and drooping white ostrich feathers, || rose-colour were placed over the crown.
were often seen at evening parties, as were A very pretty material for black hats was
black velvet toques of the Caledonian kind, prevalent; it was black satin, checquered
adorned with full plumage. The home in large diamonds with black velvet : these
caps were trimmed tastefully with ribbons, || velvet checquers were also seen on hats of
but few with flowers: the ribbons were the bird-of-paradise yellow: the strings
generally gauze, in variegated stripes, among were very long, and were half of plain
which black and crimson predominated. | satin, the other half the colour of the hat.
The plumage worn on white satin dress- || A blond of a moderate breadth surround-
hats was very splendid; the hat itselfed the brim, and formed a double row where
adorned with pearls. Elegant blond caps, the strings were fastened.
with a substitute for a caul, of treillage- On coloured dresses the French ladies
work formed of coloured satin, were fa- wore a novel kind of canezou formed of
vourite head-dresses at dinner-parties : on bands of plaited blond, separated by let-
these, flowers, in detached bouquets, were | ting-in of embroidered blond : these ca-
scattered with unsparing hand; yet they nezous were trimmed round the neck by a
were elegantly disposed, and looked well. | full růche. Most of the winter

gowns

for Béret turbans, extremely, wide flat on the half-dress had standing-up collars; some head, and most unbecoming, were never- || formed of bouillons of tulle, or in rûches. theless in high estimation. Unless these Dresses of black barêge, with flounces oroutré head-dresses were placed very much || namented by narrow rouleaux of satin, on one side, and tastefully ornamented, || forming elegant patterns in bas-relief, were they looked almost preposterous; for their a favourite costume at the theatres. The breadth was beyond that of the shoulders. || corsage of these dresses was à la Grecque.

In Paris, the warm and useful mantle Merino dresses of Caroline increased in was as much in favour this winter as with favour. Some merinos were embroidered the English ladies. An excellent invention with silk, the same colour as the dress. was, however, resorted to by the French | Checquered calicos and cambrics were worn marchandes de modes, which we should do as morning dresses; the ground ponceau well to copy. Under the mantle is a kind checquered with black, or blue, with orange

a of half-pelerine, which, buttoning down in colour. Dresses of white tulle were adoptfront, forms a sort of under-waistcoat, and | ed for the ball-room, trimmed at the borpreserves the chest from cold, when the der with small bands of coloured satin, of cloak accidentally flies open. The mantles about a finger's breadth. The drapery of for walking were made of what the French | the corsage was marked out by three cocall royal tartan, in very large diamond loured bands, which crossed over the front checquers. The loose Polonese sleeve, | like a handkerchief, and terminated under lined and trimmed with fur, was worn with the sash. Two broad bias folds often conWitzchouras : the sleeve underneath fitted stituted the trimming on the borders of close to the arm. Shawls were worn over gowns for half-dress: over each of these silk pelisses, over which was brought were three cordons, the same colour as the the collar of the pelisse. Pelisses of pop- dress, Poplins were trimmed with satin

а

in two rouleaux, whence proceeded an or- which, though double, were of a very simnament like the teeth of a saw. A dress | ple kind. The wrists were adorned with of rose-colour crape was a favourite parure hair bracelets, clasped by a large red corfor the evening party: it was trimmed at nelian. A beautiful specimen of Urling's the border with two broad bias folds, at lace, in a triple ruff, encircled the throat. some inches distance from each other, | The bonnet was of black velvet, lined with above which was a full rouleau of rose- || the colour of the pomegranate-red; appacoloured satin, round which were entwined rently a dull red, but becoming to every two other narrow rouleaux, one black, the complexion. The bannet was trimmed with other rose-colour. A rouleau of the same black velvet and yellow satin, shaded with kind was placed at the edge of the dra- | pomegranate-red.-Vide a Walking Dress peries of the corsage, and trimmed also for December; page 260. the short sleeves, which were formed by The Japanese rose, that beautiful winter three broad points, brought together by one | candle-light colour, promised this winter rouleau, that encircled the arm. This mix- | to be as much in favour as it has been for ture of black and rose-colour was observed the last two years. It was of satin gauze, in the ribbon which composed the sash. its brilliant colour for evening dresses

A rose-coloured béret, with a bird-of-pa- | finely relieved by a broad festooned flounce radise plume, was a favourite evening head- | of white blond. The sudden contrast was, dress. Flowers of gold and silver were however, tastefully checked by an embroioften seen ornamenting the hair, with ball- dery over the flounce in black floize silk, dresses: the effect was more brilliant than | beautifully raised. The short sleeves were becoming. Combs, adorned with ame- of white tulle, with a full quilling of blond thysts, had a better effect, especially on round the arm, and over these sleeves were light hair. Black velvet bérets were turned || mancherons à la Perse, which hung over up on one side in a net-work, forming a so as but partially to discover the tulle diadem, composed of narrow gold lace: sleeve beneath. The mancherons were of this side, which was cleft in the middle, || the same material as the dress; and a fallwas finished by two small gold acorns. On | ing ornament of very broad blond encircled each side was a black gauze ribbon, figured || the tucker part of the corsage.-Vide an over with large leaves of gold, and of im- engraving of an Evening Dress for Decemmense breadth. The chapeau bérets were | ber; page 260. a novel head-dress for the evening ; they The home dresses were of gros de Nawere of black velvet surmounted with very | ples, generally of some light but unobtrusive short rose-coloured feathers, and two long colour. They were trimmed at the border lappets of the same coloured satin hung with either broad bias folds, or with nargracefully over the left shoulder, behind. row rouleaux, placed very close together, Here we beg leave to refer the reader to a || and forming a rich border in scalops, rebeautiful winter-pelisse of pomegranate-red, versed. Another favourite trimming on engraved in a superior style, in the No- | dresses of gros de Naples were two pointed vember Fashions; page 214.

flounces, bound with narrow bias, and In DECEMBER, the new pelisses were an falling over each other. The bodies of improvement on the wrapping German | gowns for half-dress were made en gerbe, Witzchoura. The colour, however, espe- | and the long sleeves were often of white cially for the carriage, was light; the make crape or muslin. Over home dresses fichuof the bust was not so loose as the Witz- || pelerines were generally worn; they were choura, but sat close to the form, and was of white muslin, beautifully embroidered. ornamented down each side with embossed | Evening-dresses of crape were trimmed at trefoil. These trefoil ornaments were car- the border with full rûches ; but many ried down the front of the skirt till they l gowns for dress-parties were ornamented met a very broad trimming round the bor- with flounces of very broad blond. der, of light grey fur of the American squir- Mantles are decidedly preferred to perel. A belt was fastened round the waist | lisses, even in walking: the newest and by a gold buckle. The sleeves were only | most admired of these envelopes, which of a moderate fulness, with mancherons : are fit only for the carriage, evening visits, and the theatres, is of royal-blue lined amusement, we know not why, they seem with amber; and next in favour is one of || exclusively to belong. We have been ingros de Naples of slate-colour, lined with || formed by those who recollect the grand satin of bright rose-colour. The capes of commemoration of Handel, in Westminsterthis cloak terminate in a fichu point, that | Abbey, that feathers and hats were excomes as low as the tip of the fingers. | pressly forbidden, as not being favourable Cachemire shawls, and fur mantelets, were to the “ concord of sweet sounds." much in request over warm high dresses. The ladies of Paris, now experiencing

Bonnets of coloured gros de Naples are the effects of fog and cold, are wrapping now seldom seen except in carriages: they themselves up in warm mantles of tartan. are ornamented usually with full blown || The checquers of these were enormously roses; but the black velvet hat and bonnet | large, and unlike, we believe, any ever have borne away the palm; except that worn by a Caledonian chieftain: for inmạny ladies yet prefer the large Leghorn | stance, a lady was seen in the Thuilleries bonnet for walking, trimmed at the edge | with a tartan mantle, the ground whereof with a variegated rûche, and the crown or- was Haïti-blue; the checquers were immonamented with ribbons of two different derately large, in diamonds of black and colours. The new black velvet bonnets red: yet do the French, on all occasions, were beautiful in shape; short at the ears, style themselves particularly classical in the crowns rather high, and in the yeoman's | their fashions. The pelisses were fastened form: an esprit feather, formed of herons' || down the front by broad languette straps, feathers, is often tastefully placed on one lined and bound; and newly married ladies side of the crown. Carriage hats, of corn- returned their morning visits in a pelisse flower-blue satin, trimmed in the same of white poplin trimmed with blond. The style, are also much admired: the orna- mantles worn by the great and wealthy, at ments and feather on these hats are also | evening dress parties, and at the theatres, black.

were of satin or velvet, the ground verTurkish turbans, a favourite evening million or white, checquered over with two head-dress for matrons, are of gold and different colours. The riding-habits were ponceau gauze. The Spanish toques are now finished across the bust in Brandenmade of gauzes of two different colours, || burghs. and these also prevail at evening parties : Hats of barbel-blue gros de Naples, they are ornamented with a bird-of-paradise checquered with black, were very fashionplume: caps of blond, the cauls open, and able. They were ornamented with several formed of treillage work, were much in puff-feathers scattered over the crown: favour. Across the open caul was a blond, || these were black, and the ribbons were disposed in cock’s-combs, interspersed with blue, figured with black. The bonnets of full-blown roses; the border arranged in coloured figured sarcenet were lined with the same manner, and the damask roses silk of a different colour and different patlying on the hair at detached distances. tern: if the bonnet were pink, checquered The hair, as may be seen in our engraving with black, the lining was yellow, spotted of evening costume, we are sorry to say, with black : the crowns were high, and still continues to be arranged in those ugly, || very full; and these bonnets were among large, unbecoming, and artificial-looking || the most admired whims of the day. The curls, which have prevailed so much of most approved hat for the carriage was of late. Some ladies, however, will not adopt | white gros de Naples, trimmed with Haïtithem, but beautifully mingle among their blue ribbon, and white marabouts, à l'Inca. charming tresses a few ribbons, in a most Hats of black velvet or satin were, as tasteful and elegant manner. Diamonds, usual, pre-eminent in favour : several were and all sorts of jewellery, are worn by mar

trimmed with broad ribbon of Scotch tarried ladies, and flowers by the young. || tan. A new sort of plume appeared on a Feathers are worn only in grand-parure. | lady of high fashion, forming a long branch A few dress-hats have appeared, and, no of foliage; each leaf composed of a numdoubt, will prevail much now the Operaber of very small white feathers. Black season has commenced; to which place of hats were often ornamented with feathers

of fire-colour; the plume long, and droop- vated; by the Apollo's knot being brought ing over the shoulder, in the weeping-wil- | very forward, and being quite visible in low style. Bonnets of black satin, lined | front, on the summit of the head. Among with yellow, and trimmed with yellow rib- || the tresses are sometimes mingled white bon, shaded with fire-colour, were much and coloured gauze, marabouts, and ears admired. Party-coloured feathers were of corn, in diamonds. White dress bats often seen on black satin hats, orange- are ornamented with flat white feathers, colour, blue, and green : these hats have || tipped with pink. Dress caps are made also bows of ribbon, of the three different with double wings, and are of black and lours.

white blond: between the wings is a wreath Gowns for half dress were frequently of geranium. Turkish toques are ornaseen of coloured merino: they were very | mented with two crescents, and two aielegantly trimmed with gros de Naples, ingrettes. Spanish toques are of gold net, two rows of jabots at the border, in full with a plume and a gold tassel on the right flutings. The bodies were made almost to side. A wreath of white roses, placed on the throat; but without any collar, and the summit of the head, is sometimes all were surmounted by a narrow lace frill. the ornament on the hair; or a few deA pelerine cape terminated in a point in | tached bouquets of other flowers. The

. front, and fastened under the girdle; and, berêts are ornamented by two esprits, one gradually sloping from each shoulder, it over the right ear; that on the other side formed a sort of stomacher, and gave a placed much higher : but the name of béret fine breadth to the chest. A dress of light is now given by the French to almost every grey gros de Naples was in high favour for sort of turban. A dress hat of tulle, lined dinners of ceremony: it had a broad with coloured satin, is hollowed out in two puckering of gauze at the border, over || places to shew the hair: two languettes, which were cockle-shells in bias, formed of placed in these hollows, are turned up, and rouleaux of white satin, on which was

appear to support two esprit feathers. quilled very narrow blond: the sleeves We are now arrived at the close of that were long, of white crape, with mancherons | December which ends the year 1826 ! of the same colour and material as the Years succeed each other, and fashions dress : the body was made low, and en pass away, after changing their aspect as gerbe. Ball-dresses were often of pink often as the moon. Seasons keep their satin, with broad flounces of blond; the course, with but little variation; but Fashion upper flounce festooned, and surmounted speeds along in her roving flight, ardently by a small bouquet of marabouts at each catching, like the Athenians of old, at point. The body was made quite plain, something new;" and it will be found with a falling tucker of blond, in the cen- || by those who peruse our pages with attentre of which was a diamond brooch set | tion, that she has, every month, some noround with rubies; the colour of the latter velties to offer. On these changes we keep gem very incongruous with pink ; but there || a watchful and scrutinizing eye, and, we is no accounting for the taste of French- | trust, to the satisfaction of our fair rea

ders; while we recommend them to adorn The hair for the ball-room was arranged their native beauty, in what may best bein the Chinese style. At other times, on come, and add to it by its elegance, simone side of the face was a plain band of hair, | plicity, and taste. on the other a full cluster of curls. We To these, our indulgent patronesses, we, wish our ladies, for whom we procure the | at the conclusion of this year, present our earliest French fashions, would not take grateful acknowledgments for their kind them up when the Gallic belles lay them support; and take our leave for the present, down: Those large, long curls, now so much | assuring them that we shall, at the comin favour in London, are at this time mencement of the year 1827, resume our scarcely ever seen in Paris. By our last || pleasing task of contributing to their inaccounts we find the hair drest very ele- formation and amusement.

INDEX TO VOL. IV.

Illustrative Memoirs.— The Most Noble Fran- || Lines addressed to Lady Sarah Beresford, 72

ces Anne, Marchioness of Londonderry, 1; A Reflection from the Mirror of Life, 72
-The Most Noble Anne, Marchioness of Recitativo and Rondo, 73
Winchester, 47 ;-Lady Hobhouse, 93;- Stanzas to A. S. 73
The Right Hon. Anne Jane, Lady Audley, || The Future, 73
141; - The Right Hon. Sarah, Countess of On Returning from Abroad, 118
Warwick, 187 ;- The Right Hon. Charlotte Stanzas, 118
Georgiana Lady Rodney, 233

Epitaph. By Mrs. Hannah More, 119

To Nature. Written at the Cave near New-
Original Communications.

port, Rhode Island, 119

Song, 119
Contemporary Poets, and Writers of Fiction,

To H. A. 119
No. IX. Mrs, Hemans, 5;-No. X. the

The Star of Eve. By L. S. S. 166
late Mrs. Radcliffe, 51 ;-No. XI. John

To a Friend, who had presented the Writer
Hamilton, 97; No. XII. Miss Anna
Maria Porter, 144; – No. XIII. James

with a Funereal Device, in Memory of his

Deceased Wife, 167
Bird, 191

Love in Youth, 167
The Smuggler's Daughter, 8
The Astrologer, 13, 113, 154

My Harp, 167

Song. By the Author of “ Field Flowers,"
Sketches from my Diary, No. I. 18;-No. II.

167
110;— No. III. 152;-No. IV. 247 The Wreck of the Comet, 212
Modern Manners, 20

To C. M. C. 213
Wanderings in the Land of Hafiz, The Seven

Sonnets to Eudora, 213
Paradises of Ispahan, 23; — The Chase,

Time, 213
115;- The Wild Ass, 252

Woman's Heart, 213
Loreley, a Legend of the Rhine, 56

Serenade, 213
Domestic Manners and Customs of the Four-

To L-E-R. 258
teenth Century, 63
Eustace St. Valerie, 66

To a Lady in Sorrow, 258
A Scrap of History, 71

A Mother's Wish, by Mrs. C. B. Wilson, 258
The Haunted Isle, Part I. 101 ;-Part II.

Elegiac Stanzas to My Boy in Heaven, by
148

Mrs. C. B. Wilson, 259
Weddings : by a Parish Clerk, No. II. 103

Star of the Morn, 259
Warfare of the Fourteenth Century, 158
Marriages, No. I. 161;- No. II. 237

Fashions,
The Chamois Hunter, Part I. 196;—Part Carriage and Afternoon Home Dresses, for
IJ. 241

July, 28;- Marine Costume, and Morning
Conversation, 200

Dress, for August, 74;-Private Concert
The Bridal Robe, 203

Costume and Morning Visiting Dress, for
Lady Margaret Leviston, 209

September, 120;-Home Costume and Sea-
Monomania ; a Contemporary Anecdote, from Side Dress, for October, 168 ;-Walking
the French, 211

Dress and Morning Costume, for Novem-
Biographical Notice of the late Mrs. George ber, 214 ;-Walking and Evening Dresses,
Lyon, 231

for December, 260
A Sketch of the Olden Time, 248

General Observations on Fashions and Dress,
The Miser, 255

28, 74, 120, 168, 214, 260
The Closing Year, 257

Cabinet of Taste, or Monthly Compendium of

Foreign Costume, 30, 76, 122, 170, 216, 262.
Original Poetry.

Summary of Fashions for the Last Six Months,
My Heart's Creed. By L. S. S. 26

304
To A. M. H. 27
To
By Miss M. G. Lewis, 27

Monthly View of New Publications, dc.
Lines on the Death of Sir Stamford Raffles, 71 Review of Books :—Gibbon's History of the
The Soldier's Dirge. By Mrs. H. 71

Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, for
Supplement to Vol. IV.

3 B

.