tered over the head-piece; two long lap-lin, the colour pink or blue, lined with pets of broad blond depended from each white satin, were much admired for the side. The breakfast cornettes were plain,|| carriage; they were ornamented with a and their shape not becoming: they were broad trimming of swansdown. made with peaks in front, in the Mary Hats of plush silk, the colour of the Queen of Scots style, which requires the bird-of-paradise, were worn in morning hair to be well dressed: the plain morning walks. They were trimmed with Talma chevalure is by no means suited to this ribbons. Black satin spotted with the sort of cap. Turbans of bright geranium same colour as the hat. Veils of black gauze, mingled with folds of gold gauze, lace were worn with black satin, or with were much in favour for the theatres. black velvet hats. Bonnets of rose-colourThis head-dress looks particularly well by ed satin were finished at the edge by black candle-light. Dress-hats, ornamented with blond; and velvet flowers of black and pearls and drooping white ostrich feathers, rose-colour were placed over the crown. were often seen at evening parties, as were A very pretty material for black hats was black velvet toques of the Caledonian kind, || prevalent; it was black satin, checquered adorned with full plumage. The home in large diamonds with black velvet: these caps were trimmed tastefully with ribbons, || velvet checquers were also seen on hats of but few with flowers: the ribbons were the bird-of-paradise yellow: the strings generally gauze, in variegated stripes, among were very long, and were half of plain which black and crimson predominated. satin, the other half the colour of the hat. The plumage worn on white satin dress- A blond of a moderate breadth surroundhats was very splendid; the hat itself ed the brim, and formed a double row where adorned with pearls. Elegant blond caps, the strings were fastened. with a substitute for a caul, of treillage- On coloured dresses the French ladies work formed of coloured satin, were fa- wore a novel kind of canezou formed of vourite head-dresses at dinner-parties: on bands of plaited blond, separated by letthese, flowers, in detached bouquets, were ting-in of embroidered blond: these cascattered with unsparing hand; yet they nezous were trimmed round the neck by a were elegantly disposed, and looked well. || full rúche. Most of the winter gowns for Béret turbans, extremely, wide flat on the half-dress had standing-up collars; some head, and most unbecoming, were never- formed of bouillons of tulle, or in rûches. theless in high estimation. Unless these Dresses of black barêge, with flounces oroutré head-dresses were placed very much || namented by narrow rouleaux of satin, on one side, and tastefully ornamented, forming elegant patterns in bas-relief, were they looked almost preposterous; for their a favourite costume at the theatres. breadth was beyond that of the shoulders. corsage of these dresses was à la Grecque. In PARIS, the warm and useful mantle Merino dresses of Caroline increased in was as much in favour this winter as with favour. Some merinos were embroidered the English ladies. An excellent invention with silk, the same colour as the dress. was, however, resorted to by the French Checquered calicos and cambrics were worn marchandes de modes, which we should do as morning dresses; the ground ponçeau well to copy. Under the mantle is a kind checquered with black, or blue, with orangeof half-pelerine, which, buttoning down in colour. Dresses of white tulle were adoptfront, forms a sort of under-waistcoat, and ed for the ball-room, trimmed at the borpreserves the chest from cold, when the der with small bands of coloured satin, of cloak accidentally flies open. The mantles about a finger's breadth. The drapery of for walking were made of what the French the corsage was marked out by three cocall royal tartan, in very large diamond loured bands, which crossed over the front checquers. The loose Polonese sleeve, like a handkerchief, and terminated under lined and trimmed with fur, was worn with the sash. Two broad bias folds often conWitzchouras: the sleeve underneath fitted stituted the trimming on the borders of close to the arm. Shawls were worn over gowns for half-dress: over each of these silk pelisses, over which was brought were three cordons, the same colour as the the collar of the pelisse. Pelisses of pop-dress, Poplins were trimmed with satin

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The

which, though double, were of a very simple kind. The wrists were adorned with hair bracelets, clasped by a large red cornelian. A beautiful specimen of Urling's lace, in a triple ruff, encircled the throat. The bonnet was of black velvet, lined with the colour of the pomegranate-red; apparently a dull red, but becoming to every complexion. The bonnet was trimmed with black velvet and yellow satin, shaded with pomegranate-red.-Vide a Walking Dress for December; page 260.

in two rouleaux, whence proceeded an ornament like the teeth of a saw. A dress of rose-colour crape was a favourite parure|| for the evening party: it was trimmed at the border with two broad bias folds, at some inches distance from each other, above which was a full rouleau of rosecoloured satin, round which were entwined two other narrow rouleaux, one black, the other rose-colour. A rouleau of the same kind was placed at the edge of the draperies of the corsage, and trimmed also the short sleeves, which were formed by three broad points, brought together by one rouleau, that encircled the arm. This mixture of black and rose-colour was observed in the ribbon which composed the sash. A rose-coloured beret, with a bird-of-paradise plume, was a favourite evening headdress. Flowers of gold and silver were often seen ornamenting the hair, with balldresses: the effect was more brilliant than becoming. Combs, adorned with amethysts, had a better effect, especially on light hair. Black velvet bérets were turned up on one side in a net-work, forming a diadem, composed of narrow gold lace: this side, which was cleft in the middle, was finished by two small gold acorns. On each side was a black gauze ribbon, figured over with large leaves of gold, and of immense breadth. The chapeau bêrets were a novel head-dress for the evening; they were of black velvet surmounted with very || short rose-coloured feathers, and two long lappets of the same coloured satin hung gracefully over the left shoulder, behind. Here we beg leave to refer the reader to a beautiful winter-pelisse of pomegranate-red,|| engraved in a superior style, in the No- dresses of gros de Naples were two pointed vember Fashions; page 214.

The Japanese rose, that beautiful winter candle-light colour, promised this winter to be as much in favour as it has been for the last two years. It was of satin gauze, its brilliant colour for evening dresses finely relieved by a broad festooned flounce of white blond. The sudden contrast was, however, tastefully checked by an embroidery over the flounce in black floize silk, beautifully raised. The short sleeves were of white tulle, with a full quilling of blond round the arm, and over these sleeves were mancherons à la Perse, which hung over so as but partially to discover the tulle sleeve beneath. The mancherons were of the same material as the dress; and a falling ornament of very broad blond encircled the tucker part of the corsage.—Vide an engraving of an Evening Dress for December; page 260.

The home dresses were of gros de Naples, generally of some light but unobtrusive colour. They were trimmed at the border with either broad bias folds, or with narrow rouleaux, placed very close together, and forming a rich border in scalops, reversed. Another favourite trimming on

flounces, bound with narrow bias, and falling over each other. The bodies of gowns for half-dress were made en gerbe, and the long sleeves were often of white crape or muslin. Over home dresses fichu

In DECEMBER, the new pelisses were an improvement on the wrapping German Witzchoura. The colour, however, especially for the carriage, was light; the make of the bust was not so loose as the Witz-pelerines were generally worn; they were choura, but sat close to the form, and was ornamented down each side with embossed trefoil. These trefoil ornaments were carried down the front of the skirt till they met a very broad trimming round the border, of light grey fur of the American squirrel. A belt was fastened round the waist by a gold buckle. The sleeves were only of a moderate fulness, with mancherons:

of white muslin, beautifully embroidered. Evening-dresses of crape were trimmed at the border with full rûches; but many gowns for dress-parties were ornamented with flounces of very broad blond.

Mantles are decidedly preferred to pelisses, even in walking: the newest and most admired of these envelopes, which are fit only for the carriage, evening visits,

and the theatres, is of royal-blue lined with amber; and next in favour is one of gros de Naples of slate-colour, lined with satin of bright rose-colour. The capes of this cloak terminate in a fichu point, that || comes as low as the tip of the fingers. || Cachemire shawls, and fur mantelets, were much in request over warm high dresses.

amusement, we know not why, they seem exclusively to belong. We have been informed by those who recollect the grand commemoration of Handel, in WestminsterAbbey, that feathers and hats were expressly forbidden, as not being favourable to the "concord of sweet sounds."

The ladies of PARIS, now experiencing Bonnets of coloured gros de Naples are the effects of fog and cold, are wrapping now seldom seen except in carriages: they themselves up in warm mantles of tartan. are ornamented usually with full blown The checquers of these were enormously roses; but the black velvet hat and bonnet || large, and unlike, we believe, any ever have borne away the palm; except that worn by a Caledonian chieftain: for inmany ladies yet prefer the large Leghorn stance, a lady was seen in the Thuilleries bonnet for walking, trimmed at the edge with a tartan mantle, the ground whereof with a variegated rûche, and the crown or- was Haïti-blue; the checquers were immonamented with ribbons of two different derately large, in diamonds of black and colours. The new black velvet bonnets || red: yet do the French, on all occasions, were beautiful in shape; short at the ears, style themselves particularly classical in the crowns rather high, and in the yeoman's their fashions. The pelisses were fastened form: an esprit feather, formed of herons' down the front by broad languette straps, feathers, is often tastefully placed on one lined and bound; and newly married ladies side of the crown. Carriage hats, of corn- returned their morning visits in a pelisse flower-blue satin, trimmed in the same of white poplin trimmed with blond. The style, are also much admired: the orna- mantles worn by the great and wealthy, at ments and feather on these hats are also evening dress parties, and at the theatres, black. were of satin or velvet, the ground vermillion or white, checquered over with two different colours. The riding-habits were now finished across the bust in Brandenburghs.

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Turkish turbans, a favourite evening head-dress for matrons, are of gold and ponçeau gauze. The Spanish toques are made of gauzes of two different colours, and these also prevail at evening parties: they are ornamented with a bird-of-paradise || plume: caps of blond, the cauls open, and formed of treillage work, were much in favour. Across the open caul was a blond, disposed in cock's-combs, interspersed with full-blown roses; the border arranged in the same manner, and the damask roses lying on the hair at detached distances. The hair, as may be seen in our engraving of evening costume, we are sorry to say, still continues to be arranged in those ugly, large, unbecoming, and artificial-looking curls, which have prevailed so much of late. Some ladies, however, will not adopt them, but beautifully mingle among their charming tresses a few ribbons, in a most tasteful and elegant manner. Diamonds, and all sorts of jewellery, are worn by married ladies, and flowers by the young. Feathers are worn only in grand-parure. || A few dress-hats have appeared, and, no doubt, will prevail much now the Opera season has commenced; to which place of

:

Hats of barbel-blue gros de Naples, checquered with black, were very fashionable. They were ornamented with several puff-feathers scattered over the crown: these were black, and the ribbons were blue, figured with black. The bonnets of coloured figured sarcenet were lined with silk of a different colour and different pattern: if the bonnet were pink, checquered with black, the lining was yellow, spotted with black the crowns were high, and very full; and these bonnets were among the most admired whims of the day. The most approved hat for the carriage was of white gros de Naples, trimmed with Haïtiblue ribbon, and white marabouts, à l'Inca. Hats of black velvet or satin were, as usual, pre-eminent in favour: several were trimmed with broad ribbon of Scotch tartan. A new sort of plume appeared on a lady of high fashion, forming a long branch of foliage; each leaf composed of a number of very small white feathers. Black hats were often ornamented with feathers

of fire-colour; the plume long, and droop-vated; by the Apollo's knot being brought ing over the shoulder, in the weeping-wil- very forward, and being quite visible in low style. Bonnets of black satin, lined front, on the summit of the head. Among with yellow, and trimmed with yellow rib- the tresses are sometimes mingled white bon, shaded with fire-colour, were much and coloured gauze, marabouts, and ears admired. Party-coloured feathers were of corn, in diamonds. White dress hats often seen on black satin hats, orange- are ornamented with flat white feathers, colour, blue, and green: these hats have tipped with pink. Dress caps are made also bows of ribbon, of the three different with double wings, and are of black and lours. white blond: between the wings is a wreath of geranium. Turkish toques are ornamented with two crescents, and two aigrettes. Spanish toques are of gold net, with a plume and a gold tassel on the right side. A wreath of white roses, placed on the summit of the head, is sometimes all the ornament on the hair; or a few detached bouquets of other flowers. The berêts are ornamented by two esprits, one over the right ear; that on the other side placed much higher: but the name of béret is now given by the French to almost every sort of turban. A dress hat of tulle, lined with coloured satin, is hollowed out in two places to shew the hair: two languettes, placed in these hollows, are turned up, and appear to support two esprit feathers.

Gowns for half dress were frequently seen of coloured merino: they were very elegantly trimmed with gros de Naples, in two rows of jabots at the border, in full flutings. The bodies were made almost to the throat; but without any collar, and were surmounted by a narrow lace frill. A pelerine cape terminated in a point in front, and fastened under the girdle; and, gradually sloping from each shoulder, it formed a sort of stomacher, and gave a fine breadth to the chest. A dress of light grey gros de Naples was in high favour for dinners of ceremony: it had a broad puckering of gauze at the border, over which were cockle-shells in bias, formed of rouleaux of white satin, on which was quilled very narrow blond: the sleeves were long, of white crape, with mancherons of the same colour and material as the dress: the body was made low, and en gerbe. Ball-dresses were often of pink satin, with broad flounces of blond; the upper flounce festooned, and surmounted || by a small bouquet of marabouts at each point. The body was made quite plain, with a falling tucker of blond, in the centre of which was a diamond brooch set round with rubies; the colour of the latter || gem very incongruous with pink; but there is no accounting for the taste of French

women.

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The hair for the ball-room was arranged in the Chinese style. At other times, on one side of the face was a plain band of hair, || on the other a full cluster of curls. We wish our ladies, for whom we procure the earliest French fashions, would not take them up when the Gallic belles lay them down: Those large, long curls, now so much in favour in London, are at this time scarcely ever seen in Paris. By our last accounts we find the hair drest very ele

We are now arrived at the close of that December which ends the year 1826! Years succeed each other, and fashions pass away, after changing their aspect as often as the moon. Seasons keep their course, with but little variation; but Fashion speeds along in her roving flight, ardently catching, like the Athenians of old, at something new;" and it will be found by those who peruse our pages with attention, that she has, every month, some novelties to offer. On these changes we keep a watchful and scrutinizing eye, and, we trust, to the satisfaction of our fair readers; while we recommend them to adorn their native beauty, in what may best become, and add to it by its elegance, simplicity, and taste.

To these, our indulgent patronesses, we, at the conclusion of this year, present our grateful acknowledgments for their kind support; and take our leave for the present, assuring them that we shall, at the commencement of the year 1827, resume our pleasing task of contributing to their information and amusement.