"The Horus Who Is on the Horizon"-still standing on its original site. I doubt that any other altar in the world can claim a continuous antiquity to compare with this.

The modern Arabic name, "Dehr-el-Bahri," means simply "the northern convent." It refers to a Coptic church in the neighborhood, which of course has no connection, near or remote, with the temple itself. But there is a much older temple than Hatasu's hardby, dating from the Eleventh Dynasty; so that Hatasu merely did what the others had done at Luxor and Karnak-built a more stately mansion to the honor of her gods on a site long dedicated to them. Whatever Thutmosis may have done to obscure her fame, he at least failed of depriving her of the credit and glory of this extraordinary temple to which her name is inseparably attached. I only wish that our modern Egyptologists could bring themselves to agree on a single spelling of it, for it is confusing to find this remarkable woman variously called Hatasu, Hatshepsut, Hatshepsowet, and Makewre-to mention no more. For myself I prefer to stick to the simplest and doubtless the least defensible of them allHatasu.

We wended a leisurely way back to the boat at dusk, passing the ruin of the Ramesseum unvisited -mainly, I suppose, because it is well not to mix

one's dynasties too much. To-day has been sacred to the classic period of the empire, - the Eighteenth Dynasty, — and the Ramessids are mere youths by comparison.

March 9. To-day's experiences, while pleasurable, have by no means compared for variety and general impressiveness with yesterday's jaunt to the Tombs of the Kings. As before, all our attention was concentrated on the western plain; but this time we had to do with the mortuary temples rather than the actual graves-the sumptuous palaces set apart for the worship of the ka, or manes, of the deceased emperors. I have hitherto remarked the apparent advance in religious conceptions which in the Eighteenth Dynasty permitted the removal of the ka temple to a great distance from the abiding-place of the mummy, instead of insisting that it be close by and often physically connected. But I can find no instance in which the mortuary chapels were permitted to be built on the opposite side of the Nile-perhaps because of a notion that souls and kas, like witches, might be balked by running water.

Be that as it may, the great monarchs of the time, from 1550 B.C. down to the last of the Ramessids, consented to let their bodies be interred in the desert valley two or three miles away, and kept their mor

tuary shrines conveniently near to and in full sight of many-gated Thebes. It was to these latter that we went to-day, ferrying over as before in the early morning to the western bank where abode the donkey-boys with their steeds. We still retained the same servants. Abd'allah, indeed, has grown quite fond of me. He dares hope I will buy him some shoes at Assuan, and above all else he desires that I hire him for some more lucrative excursions when we return from the Cataract. All day he has besought me with the persistence of a Jacob to tell him my name, and to write it down in a book of testimonials which he bears in his bosom; and since I have done so I hear him constantly pattering on behind the donkey muttering to himself, "Missa Philipp, Missa Philipp" that he may not forget.

As for the numerous shrines we visited I am forced to admit that there was a certain sameness about them all certainly nothing as distinctive as the terraced shrine of Hatasu. And out of all that we have seen in the past dozen hours the most vivid memories are of the twin colossi which dominate the meadows in lonely magnificence, and of the fallen image of Rameses the Great, a giant who must have been a noble sight in the days when he was erect. As a matter of course we went to the Ramesseum first and spent much time there, not only in the ruin

of the temple proper, but also in the highly interesting group of ancient buildings that cluster around and behind it-treasure-houses, presumably. Raschid, pointing out the known date of these structures and the obvious fact that their bricks were made without straw, will have it that these are the very works of captive Israel mentioned in the Biblical accounts. Of course I believe. I make it a point to believe every such thing if possible. Nor can I see any inherent improbability in holding that these may be the selfsame bricks which the taskmasters of old compelled the captives to produce.

It is a matter for deep regret that the temple of Rameses II should have fallen into such a ruinous state. The lust for quarrying has all but destroyed the faces of its propylon, save on the inner side where the well-worn story of the battle of Kadesh, of which the king never tired, is told over once again in gigantic reliefs now familiar to us from frequent repetition. The temple's greatest remaining glory, however, is the fallen colossus of the Pharaoh - only a fragment, to be sure, but so huge as to arrest attention. A cartouche on its massive shoulder serves to identify the image as indeed that of the great king, although the face has perished. One may still recognize an ear, which is over three feet long, and a portion of the breast. It is stated that this statue when complete

must have been fifty-seven and one-half feet in height, exclusive of its pedestal — which would be the more notable if Professor Petrie had not found another fragment of a similar statue in the Delta indicating the existence of another colossal portrait of the Pharaoh which must have towered more than ninety-two feet in air. The twin colossi of the western templefor there were two, one on either side of the entrance -put the numerous standing effigies of the same king at Luxor to blush. The latter are as nothing by comparison -and yet I still prefer them because of those little incidental portraits of the royal wives, standing hardly knee-high beside the stupendous figure of their lord.

The second courtyard of the Ramesseum is in fair preservation. It was once flanked by colonnades of "Osiris columns"-that is to say, columns in the form of a mummified body, typical of Osiris, with arms folded across the breast and bearing in the hands the key of life and the scourge of power. Some of these caryatids remain intact. Behind the court and slightly raised above it comes the canonical hypostyle hall, once a worthy fellow for its enormous prototypes of the eastern shore, and like them composed of a lofty nave and two lower side aisles. I have been much interested to observe the obvious relation between these hypostyle halls thus arranged and what we have