trying to suppress Huguenot heresy; and when Francis II. was king the adherents of the Reformation seized all the strongholds of the town, persecuted the Catholics, and did irreparable damage to the cathedral and churches. In October, 1562, the Duke of Guise established Catholic supremacy in Rouen, by giving the city up to eight days' pillage by his soldiery, and putting to the sword or burning every armed inhabitant. Ten years afterwards came the Massacre of St. Bartholomew. A humane governor was then ruling in the city, and to the utmost of his power he limited the operation of the cruel orders

received from the infamous Queen-Mother, Catherine de Medicis, so that in Rouen about four hundred persons only perished. In 1594 Henry of Navarre, when winning back his kingdom, piece by piece, occupied eight months in besieging the city. From later kings and rulers Rouen received a due share of notice. Louis XV. suspended its Parliament, but instituted an Academy of Literature, Science, and Arts. Its free institutions were, however, restored by the succeeding monarch. At the Revolutionary epoch Rouen suffered in turns from famine, pillage, and massacre. During more recent times her history has been for the most part a story of growth and prosperity. On December 5, 1870, she saw the enemy once more at her gates, deemed herself incapable of offering any effective resistance, and quietly became for a considerable time the head-quarters of the Prussian

General Manteuffel, and in March, 1871, the residence of the Crown Prince and General von Moltke. But the Prussians went, and the war indemnity was paid, and Rouen has peacefully developed its commerce and industry, and grown richer and more prosperous every day.

As a commercial town of France, Rouen stands second only to Lyons. It is the chief French seat of the cotton industry, its speciality being the striped and checked stuffs known as Rouenneries. About 50,000 persons out of the 150,000 who make up the population of the town and its suburbs are employed in spinning, weaving, dyeprinting, bleaching, and similar pursuits. The manufacture of bon-bons and sucre de pomme is also carried on to a large extent.

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The admirable situation of the city has, of course, conduced much to its commercial prosperity. As an inland town it has easy communication with Paris and all parts of France, and at the same time possesses maritime advantages by reason of its tidal river, a thousand feet in width, bearing vessels of 500 tons burthen to its busy quays. sheltering islands in the river enclose a broad haven for sea-going vessels. who stands to view the city and its environs from where the stone bridge extremity of the Ile de la Croix beholds a splendid panorama before him. bright river, sprinkled with green islets, is seen flowing gently along a rich valley, and past the majestic and venerable city. Behind the wide stone quays, continually traversed by steam tram-cars and alive with business activity, gradually rise the old tortuous streets and handsome new thoroughfares, the cathedral, the Gothic churches, the medieval houses, the modern emporiums, the towers and belfries that go to make up Rouen. The Rouennais gondolas, associated like those of Venice with a thousand romantic stories, the steamers darting to and fro, and the flags of many nations fluttering above a forest of masts, lend life and colour to the foreground, and beyond the old Norman city are seen the encompassing hills and wooded ravines that make its environs so picturesque and delightful.

The most interesting portion of Rouen is the old town circumscribed by the Quays and the Boulevards, the latter having taken the place of the fortification which resisted Henry V. of England. Outside this boundary stretch the faubourgs, largely inhabited by the industrial classes, and displaying a vast number of tall smoky chimneys and long factories, reflecting back the sun's rays from their innumerable windows. But even within the old boundaries a great metamorphosis has of late years been effected. The Rouen whose picturesque streets Prout drew with such enthusiastic delight, and of which Victor Hugo sang, is fast disappearing. It wants to be like Paris, and is sacrificing therefore much of its picturesqueness for the sake of having rows of grand houses and handsome squares. It began to modernise itself in 1853, by improving its quays and chief thoroughfares; in 1860 it borrowed 12,000,000 francs in order to renovate the entire city, and, ever since, demolition and re-construction have been going on. The three principal new streets are the Rue de la République, the Rue Jeanne d'Arc, and the Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, all lined with elegant structures and attractive shops. The principal artery of the city from north to south is formed by the Rue Grand Pont, the Rue des Carmes (the Bond Street of Rouen), and the Rue Beauvoisine. This is an ancient thoroughfare, but largely rebuilt, and splendid shops abound in it. The most frequented promenade in the city is the Cours Boieldieu, by the waterside, affording fine prospects of the town and

river. Here are situated the finest cafés and restaurants, and on certain evenings a band plays for the public entertainment.

But it is yet possible to get away from elegant modern mansions and handsome shops and gay promenades into labyrinthine streets, where nothing seems to have been changed for centuries. The houses are structures to gaze at in wondering admiration, and to dream about long after, marvellous combinations of solid oak beams and slates and stone and plaster, seemingly toppling over to each other across the roadway. The glimpses of shady interiors, the curious windows and doors, the rich carvings and pendant ornaments, the broken lines of the architecture, the far-projecting eaves and quaint roofs and gables combine to hold the imagination and recall a recall a thousand romantic dreams and memories. memories. But these old world nooks and corners are fast becoming fewer and fewer, and Rouen will ere long only possess its monumental edifices as links between its present busy life and the memories of past ages. In the neighbourhood of the Rue des Arpents are some streets which, though narrow and dirty, are intensely interesting. In the Rue du Bac it is easy to fancy that the houses are vying with each other which shall overhang most. The Rue Martainville is the route by which the Dukes of Normandy were wont to enter their capital. The Rue d'Epiceries presents on market days a characteristic spectacle, and a contrasting scene is afforded by the Marché aux Fleurs, where there is an enchanting display of fuchsias, myrtles, mignonette, verbenas, gladioli, lilies, and so forth, growing in pots, and also a vast profusion of huge bouquets.

Christianity was introduced into the district now known as Normandy by St. Nicaise, but the first Bishop of Rouen was St. Mellon, a native of Cardiff, in Wales. He built the first Christian church in the city, in A.D. 207, and officiated as its pastor till his death, in 302. He was widely reverenced for his zeal and charity. By his successors the church was enlarged, and in the year 400 rebuilt. It was pillaged and destroyed in 841, but rose from its ruins and witnessed the baptism of Duke Rolph, or Rollo, in 912. Successive Dukes of Normandy lent their aid to the bishops in the further enlargement and endowment of the church. Three years before the Norman Conquest, Duke William was present at the dedication of the completed edifice. In 1200 it was burnt down, and from that time till the middle of the sixteenth century the present cathedral was in process of construction. King John of England may be looked upon as one of the founders, inasmuch as he assigned certain funds for the rebuilding of the sacred structure.

The aspect of the western front of the cathedral (which overlooks a small square, formerly used as a fruit and flower market) seems to awaken different emotions in different minds. Some can find no words but those of wonder and admiration to express their feelings as they survey the vast proportions of the grand Gothic façade, and cast their eyes over the rich profusion of sculptures and elaborate decorations. Others complain of corrupt taste and confusion in ornament, and one writer describes the façade as "viciously florid." The central porch and upper part of the façade were erected by the celebrated Cardinal Georges d'Amboise in 1509-1530. The two Leroux, père et fils, master-masons of Rouen, were the architects, and a number of Norman artists were employed to execute

the sculptures. The side portals are two centuries older, and of simpler design. Above the portals are sculptured a crowd of bishops, saints, apostles, and Bible personages. Over the left doorway is the celebrated figure of Herodias dancing before Herod. The lady is

represented with heels high in the air, and is apparently performing what little streetboys call a catherine-wheel. The best hour for viewing the vast mass of stone-work that forms the west front of the cathedral is just after sunset, when in the mellowing light the intricate details of the rich ornamentation and stone screens of open tracery tone down and harmonise to produce one grand effect.

The façade is flanked by two stately towers. To the north is the Tower of St. Romain, built in a purer and severer style than the rest of the building, and a really