evening, as the expected white troops did not arrive, and the officers and women and children were massacred. Operations to recover the city began in June, and of the final ten days' siege, terminating on September 21st, we have already spoken. Many are the spots still pointed out by our countrymen in connection with the massacre and re-conquest. At the Calcutta Gate a memorial tablet points out the "rallying-point of the authori

ties" on that terrible morning of May 11th, before abandoning the city. Various houses are shown in which well-known families were massacred, various bastions at which gallant efforts were made during the siege, and various spots at which notorious rebels were hanged or shot. Within the fort is the site of the tank (now filled in and levelled with the ground) into which the bodies of forty-nine Christian men, women, and children were thrown, after being massacred in the court-yard at the end of sixteen days' confinement. Several English gentlemen and ladies were murdered in the rooms over the Lahore Gate. Some of the murderers were hanged in front of the gate in 1862, and one in 1873. Many streets in the town are associated with sickening scenes of bloodshed or retaliation. Upon the rocky ridge outside the city is the Flag-staff Tower, where, on May 11th, the ladies and children who could escape from the station and cantonments were crowded together. Close by is a monument in memory of the suppression of the Mutiny.

Although Delhi is small when compared with great capitals such as Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay, its position in the centre of Hindustan, where so many lines of railway converge to develop its trade and industry, must ever make it one of the most important of our Indian possessions. It is still the "home of the language of Hindustan, and the seat of learning," and is rich in antiquities and matters of historic interest, especially to the Mohammedan and the Hindu, "whose memories," as Dr. Russell says, "are refreshed by ancient legends, and who love to dwell on the history of their past glory. Having, in good sooth, no record of the present wherewith to be content, they clothe the ruins of tombs

and temples with an interest to which we are completely strangers. They have the heritage of the past divided between them in the enduring traditions of the great wrongs they wrought upon each other."

LUCKNOW.

Lucknow, the capital of Oude, stands upon an elevated plain beside the river Gumti, forming a magnificent picture as seen from a distance, but fading, at a nearer approach, into an ordinary native town, covering an area of thirteen square miles, and containing a population of 285,000 souls. It rose into importance with the young dynasty that established itself in Oude when the Mogul Empire was crumbling. Of the native monuments in Lucknow we

shall mention a few presently, but to an Englishman, the first and foremost monument in the city is the British Residency, left standing in ruins by Lord Clyde, as a memorial of the gallant defence which a handful of brave men made for long months against overwhelming odds. Surprised by the breaking out of the revolt, the Europeans in the city sought refuge there, and were joined by Sir Henry Lawrence and his scanty garrison. But the story of the siege is too long to recount here. From May, 1857, till March, 1858, the struggle went on; Sir Henry Lawrence died, also Sir Henry Havelock, who brought the first ineffectual relief. General Neill was shot. The three brothers-in-arms slumber in the little cemetery, amidst a host of officers and others, whose plain grave-stones tell how they fell during the rebellion, or perished afterwards of suffering and fatigue. How Sir Colin Campbell and Sir James Outram at last raised the siege and crushed the rebellion is one of the most familiar facts of history. In October, 1858, the Governor-General and Lady Canning visited Lucknow in state, and found the work of re-construction already far advanced.

Anungh Jakal muna, the brother of Rama, founded here the town of Lakshmanpur, wwar word to beág, the toowand-headed make that bears the world on its back, yeh Low know has no antiquities, all ite great buildings dating from the independent monarchs A Or, Laxelmatpur max nly one of eixty-four villages within the confines of a vast forest, onering the present site of Lucknow, where 60,999) moonces, or Indian saints, performed acts A penasen, or together atuled the sacred books. Asoff-ud-Dowlah made Lucknow a city. At Lie wsion, in 1775, it was only an ordinary town of a few hundred houses, but when annexed by Lond Dalhousie its population amounted to 500,000. Asoff-ud-Dowlah built bridges and mong and the Imambara, which is the chief architectural monument of Lucknow. All the architects of India competed for this work. There is a grand hall, of immense size and magnificence, 167 feet by 52 feet, with ornate verandahs on each side, and a fine octagonal cupola-shaped room at each corner. A famine was raging when the edifice was erected, and it is said that respectable citizens were compelled by want to enrol themselves amongst the workmen, and that to save their feelings and keep their identity unknown, the names were called over and the wages paid at dead of night. The rich decorations and glittering mirrors and chandeliers of the interior have disappeared, as the building is now used as an arsenal by the British troops. Numerous other edifices in various parts of the town attest the liberality and magnificence of this renowned Nawab. His court outvied in pomp and splendour all the other courts of India or Europe. At his son's marriage, 1,200 elephants swelled the train, and the young prince wore jewels worth £200,000. But the crushing taxation that produced this grandeur filled the land with misery. Of Lucknow itself, in this gorgeous reign, Tennant says, "I never witnessed so many varied forms of wretchedness, filth, and vice."

The chief favourite of Asoff-ud-Dowlah was a Frenchman. Claude Martin, a corporal at Pondicherry, deserted, became a captain in the army of Oude, and rose to be commanderin-chief. He inspired many of the great architectural embellishments of Lucknow, and spent his own vast fortune chiefly in founding schools. The principal of these, La Martinière, affords gratuitous education to thousands of children.

It were needless to recount the host of royal gardens, houses, pavilions, town mansions, temples, and mosques, mostly owing their origin to the late reigning family. The mosques and tombs were built by merchants and nobles. It was the only way they could spend their money, for none but the king's relatives dared to erect handsome houses for themselves. Since the annexation many of the nobles have built town houses, generally with imposing arched gateways. But the bright aspect of Lucknow at a distance is a good deal made up of flying buttresses, supporting nothing but one another, copper domes, gilt from top to bottom, burnished umbrellas, and balustrades of burnt clay." However, the stucco plaster made from powdered shells is purer and brighter than marble in appearance, and is exceedingly effective when lit up with an immense number of lamps.

"

The British authorities have made good roads, widened the tortuous native streets, and founded numerous comfortable bazaars. Sanitary rules are enforced by a partially elective municipality. Schools, hospitals, and other institutions flourish, and here, as elsewhere in India, a march of improvement and progress seems to have set in.

CAWNPORE.

On the right bank of the Ganges, 130 miles above its junction with the Jumna, stands the city of Cawnpore, with a population of 122,000. There is no building in the place of importance except municipal erections and edifices raised by bankers and merchants, all within the last fifty years. Mud huts and plain brick structures abound. It has developed from the settlement that gathered round the quarters of the British troops planted there as an advanced frontier outpost at the close of last century. It had no history till the Mutiny, in 1857, gave it a record of undying fame; for as long as England endures, pilgrims from the mother-land will journey to the Memorial Garden that encloses the Well of Cawnpore.

Nana Sahib headed the insurrection in this district. He first assassinated 136 Europeans-men, women, and children-and then besieged the little garrison-250 men and as many women and children, who, shut up in the fragile military hospital, maintained a brave resistance. Nana Sahib, impatient of delay, swore to let them depart and to supply boats and provisions. Mistrustful, yet unable to do otherwise, the little company embarked. As they set off, volleys of grape-shot were fired at them. Some boats sank, others took fire, whilst the rebel cavalry rode into the stream and sabred all who strove to swim to shore. The largest boat, containing General Wheeler and sixty Europeans, ran aground. All the men were massacred before Nana Sahib's eyes, but 122 women and children captured from the various boats were taken to that prince's residence. After nearly a month's captivity, on the approach of the British troops, they were delivered up to the knives of the rebels and their bodies thrown down a well.

Above the closed well in the Memorial Garden stands a beautiful marble figure of an angel, from the chisel of Baron Marochetti, bearing in its arms the "martyrs' holy palm," and surmounted by a cross.

No one can pass. through these Cities of the Ganges, and behold modern innovations intermingling with the ruins of dead cities, without asking who founded those ancient cities, and built the palaces, and made the strong places which are now but dust and heaps of bricks? And the answer is, "The leaders of races who believed, each in his turn, that his dominion would endure, just as we believe that ours must last for ever, or for as long as we wish. The Mohammedan invasion which established Shah-ood-Deen in power nearly 100 years after William had conquered England, found in such cities as Delhi a civilisation to which our ancestors had then no pretensions. Nasir-ood

Deen, Toogluck, Feroze-Shah, Baber, Shir-Shah, Selim, Akbar, Aurungzebe-these are names not writ in water; to many millions they mean far more than Alfred, Richard Cœur de Lion, Edward the Black Prince, or Henry V. do to us, and yet our millions know nothing of them whatever."

MUNICH AND NUREMBERG.

MUNICH:-Church Possessions - The Bridge at Vohring-Foundation of Munich-Development-Munich of To-dayThe Old and New Towns-The Theresien Wiese-Churches-The Palace-The Max-Joseph-Platz-The Butcher's Leap-The Ministry of War-Statues, Obelisks, and Fountains-The Gallery of Sculpture-Picture GalleriesBavarian National Museum. NUREMBERG:-Early History-Cunning Craftsmen-Witty Inventions-The Spirit of Poetry and Art-The Bridge across the Pegnitz-The Königs-Strasse-Picturesque Architecture-Houses of Celebrities -Albrecht Dürer-Hans Sachs-Statues and Fountains-The Old Rathhaus and its Memories--The Thirty Years' War -The Castle-Church of St. Sebald-Legends of St. Sebald-Church of St. Lawrence-The Graves of Albrecht Dürer and Hans Sachs-The Seilersgasse-Relics-The Library-The City of Toys-The Venice of Germany.

large share of whatever It was so in Bavaria, Freising, each had its

EVEN or eight centuries ago the Church and its dignitaries held possession of a very was worth having in Europe. where Augsburg, Passau, and bishop ruling over and drawing revenues from a good fair slice of territory. The old city of Ratisbon was the only important town which the reigning dukes really possessed, and their revenues were so precarious that their situation was often very embarrassing;-they dared no longer freely pillage all merchants that crossed their territory, but they collected tolls, which formed, indeed, their principal source of revenue. Through Bavaria passed the commodities procured by the merchants of Venice in Eastern lands, and taken to Innsbruck to be distributed throughout Germany; and across the duchy also passed the salt from the inexhaustible mines of Salzburg, for the use of Suabia and Franconia. It was necessary for all these wares to cross the Isar, and the Bishop of Freising built a bridge at Vohring, and established a market and set up a moneychanging office, so that the tide of commerce rolled past his doors; and what with tolls and the profits on changing money for the merchants, the episcopal revenues became very large. The Dukes of Bavaria bestirred themselves to alter this state of things, and built a bridge higher up the Isar, near the remains of an old Roman station. A market and an exchange office were established, and a town sprang up, which was named Monachium (from an adjacent convent). Henry the Lion thought the ducal bridge would pay better without its episcopal rival; accordingly he destroyed the bridge at Vohring. But the bishop had a powerful relative-his nephew, the Emperor of Germany-to whom he appealed. The imperial edict consequently obtained left the bishop's bridge at the bottom of the Isar, but enacted that one-third of all the receipts at the ducal bridge should go to the bishop. This edict, dated 1158, is the earliest official document in which Munich is mentioned by name.