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portcullis. A picturesque and fertile country, with groves and gardens and vineyards, and the roofs of farmhouses varying the landscape, lay outside the ramparts. Within the walls, quaint curious streets-a medley of gables and towers and steeples-were picturesquely mingled. Arched doorways surmounted by escutcheons, rows of cross-barred windows,


gables, little towers bearing vanes, and outside staircases, were prevalent features of the mediæval houses of Geneva. The citizens were wealthy, and not destitute of taste; their windows were bright with stained glass; their dining-rooms had carved ceilings, and frescoed or tapestried walls; their furniture was of carved oak; and trophies of arms and other decorations adorned the apartments. Shops of all kinds were abundant; there were also large covered halls used as market-places; strange signs hung out from inns, where a man

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wevered parts bigenser and all much so the general attractiveness of the place. The Heb of the bridges is the nandwme Post da Mont Blans, empleted in 12. This is : Looded and fry feet in length, and forms a favorite primenale. The best iss the Port de Bergin, onated with which, by a drawbelle, is the small and namel After Jian Jangus Bonsan, and entaning a bronze statue of the will, el

" Ball was the won of a watchmaker at Geneva, ani was born at a bisee in the Grande Re in 1712. Returning late from a walk one evening in his sixteenth year, be found the ety gate cloud, and being afraid to face his master next mming, be fed t

In 1764. his "Emile" and "Contrat Social" were burnt at Geneva by the hangman, on political rather than religions grounds.

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Both banks of the river near these bridges are lined with handsome quays and substantial buildings and shops. From the Quai du Mont Blanc, on the right bank, there is a splendid view of the monarch of mountains and the surrounding group, forming on clear evenings a grand and imposing spectacle. The adjacent Place des Alpes is chiefly remarkable for the sumptuous monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, who left his vast fortune of about twenty million francs for the good of the city. An equestrian bronze statue of the duke surmounts a three-storeyed hexagonal structure of white and coloured marbles. A Gothic chapel, with sarcophagus and recumbent statue of the duke, forms the central storey. This grand monument is further adorned with statues of celebrated Guelphs, the twelve apostles, and Christian virtues; also with colossal chimera and lions, balustrades, mosaic pavements, flower-beds, and fountains.

Near the south end of the Pont du Mont Blanc stands the National Monument raised to commemorate the union of Geneva with the Swiss Confederation in 1814. Helvetia and Geneva are represented in bronze on a lofty pedestal. Close on the shores of the lake is the pleasant Jardin du Lac, where, in summer, crowds assemble to listen to the band and gaze at the flowers and statues. In the lake itself are seen from this point two projecting blocks of granite known as the Pierres du Niton. Tradition asserts that these are altars upon which in the Roman period sacrifices were offered to Neptune. Other quays and promenades in this neighbourhood are well frequented, and afford pleasing views of lake and mountains.

Farther up the river is another island, besides the one just now mentioned, forming part of the district of St. Gervais. It is crowded with the tall old houses of the workmen and washerwomen. The old costumes that still linger in some of the Swiss cantons have passed away in Geneva. Even the blouse is relegated to the street porters, with their everlasting "V'la, monsieur!" But the washerwomen at their public labours make up a picturesque spectacle as, in boats, anchored beside the Rhône-banks, they pound and rinse away at the clothes, with the pure blue stream rushing rapidly past in front, and the quaint Savoyard houses forming a pleasant background.

In the midst of the tall, queer houses of the old city stands the Cathedral of St. Peter, in which Calvin preached, and from which John Knox went forth to write the "First Blast of the Trumpet against the Monstrous Regiment of Women," and to work out the Scottish Reformation. Ages ago a pagan temple, and after that a Christian church, stood upon this spot; but the present edifice was consecrated with grand solemnities by the Emperor Conrad in 1034. It, however, was much altered during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and in the eighteenth disfigured with a Corinthian portico totally out of keeping with the rest of the architecture. The interior of the building has suffered little change since the days of Calvin. Above the pulpit is the same canopy that hung over the great Reformer when he preached. In the pulpit is the chair on which he was accustomed to sit whilst others held forth. Many of the seats below bear the names of old Genevese families that were conspicuous in the Reforming period, but everything is scrupulously neat, plain, and clean. The statues and architectural ornaments outside, the paintings and beautiful stained-glass windows inside, almost all disappeared during the reign of Calvin and the Consistory. Of the tombs of the old canons a few vestiges appear in the

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