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Melbourne ]

CHURCHES AND CHAPELS.

191

to which, on November 9th, 1839, was laid the foundation of St. James's Church, the first built in the city.

The churches and chapels of Melbourne are numerous, and much money has been freely spent in erecting them and making them worthy of the city. A cathedral for the Church of England, towards the erection of which large sums have been contributed, stands at the corner of Swanston and Flinders Streets. Its external length is 273 feet, the width 126 feet; the central tower and spire 156 feet, and the building will accommodate upwards of 1,700 persons. The Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. Patrick's), which has been many years in the course of erection, is a fine building. The Scots Church, built of brown freestone and the celebrated white Kakanni stone, is in the Early English style of architecture; its elegant and graceful steeple rises to a height of 211 feet. The Wesleyan Chapel with its lofty spire in Lonsdale Street is said to be the finest edifice which that denomination possesses in the world. The Independent Church is a Saracenic edifice of brick and freestone with a massive square campanile. The Baptists and numerous other denominations have their chapels and meeting-houses, needing no special comment. Till December 31st, 1875, the sum of £50,000 was annually granted by the State for the support of religion. This was divided equally and unconditionally, according to the number of supporters of each church, as shown by the census returns. The Church of England, Roman Catholics, and Wesleyans used to accept this grant; the Presbyterians left it as an open question to their ministers; the Independents, Baptists, Society of Friends, and some other sects refused it. But all the denominations are now entirely selfsupported, and support their church and Sunday-school work vigorously by the free contributions of their members.

Akin to religion is the work of charity. There are in the colony (mostly in Melbourne) seventy-three hospitals, refuges, asylums, and similar institutions. The capacious Melbourne Hospital, with its 400 beds, treats 20,000 patients annually. In the Benevolent Asylum are comfortably lodged unfortunates who from age and infirmity are incapable of taking care of themselves. The deaf-and-dumb, the blind, orphans, emigrants, servants, and others, all have their special interests cared for. In practical benevolence and in strenuous effort for the ignorant and depraved, the Melbourne community will compare favourably with any in the old country.

Of barracks and gaols and cemeteries, of literary institutes, club-houses, hotels, and banks, of arrangements for gas and drainage, and so forth, we need not speak; neither need we of railway stations and street-vehicles. In all these and many other respects the wants of a great city are well cared for. Docks and wharves also are plentifully provided.

Just below the basaltic rock known as the "Falls" there is about a mile of wharfage along the north bank of the Yarra, and a dry dock that will admit ships of 1,100 tons. On the opposite shore are ship-yards, foundries, factories, and so forth, with their huge cranes and varied appliances. The river at this point widens out into what is called the Pool. The shipping part of the river is separated from the more sylvan portion by Prince's Bridge, a fine stone arch of 150 feet span. Above the bridge gaily-painted skiffs and pleasure-boats of every size and variety may be seen skimming to and fro. There are one or two other bridges, and on account of the great increase of traffic an iron

bridge of three arches, with two dry arches at each end, is about to be constructed at a cost of £100,000. Our readers must not suppose that the Yarra is a conspicuous feature of Melbourne. It is pretty, tortuous, and rapid, with varied banks, but, as Mr. Trollope remarks, "it seems to have little to do with the city. It furnishes the means of rowing to young men, and waters the Botanical Gardens. But it is not a 'joy for ever' to the Melbournites as the Seine is to the people of Paris, or as the Inn is to the people of Innsbruck. You might live in Melbourne all your life and not know that the Yarra-yarra was running by your door." Yet the scenery of the Yarra-yarra is very pleasant just outside the city. Studley

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Park is one of the best places to view its picturesque and intricate windings. Studley Park is a large hilly recreation-ground of over 200 acres, by which the Yarra flows in loops, and curves sometimes between steep banks clad with vines and fruit-trees. There are some rapids here locally called the "Falls," close by the spot where the little Meri-meri brings down all tributary waters. The walk along the Studley Park banks, 100 feet above the little river below, is a very pleasing one. The stream, generally so peaceful, has swelled at times to a great river. In 1863 it rose forty feet, and overflowed the lower parts of Melbourne and the lowlands between it and Sandridge. Great damage was done to vineyards and other cultivated grounds on its banks. The destruction of rare trees and plants in the Botanical Gardens was very lamentable.

There are several markets in Melbourne. One of the principal, and perhaps the most

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PARIS: THE CHAMPS ELYSÉES, FROM THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.

Melbourne.]

"PADDY'S MARKET."

193

interesting, is the Eastern, familiarly known as "Paddy's Market," built at a cost of £77,223. Early in the morning on Wednesdays and Saturdays this market presents an animated scene. The abundant stores of potatoes, cabbages, pineapples, peaches, apricots, plums, and a variety of other fruits and vegetables, attract a goodly concourse of buyers. But it is on Saturday night that this market bursts forth in its full glory, when the stalls are lit up with gas-light. Along the passages an immense crowd of men and women and boys and girls passes continuously, gazing, buying, talking, laughing, whilst the dealers shout the merits of their wares. Everything that can be eaten or drunk, or worn, or worked with or played with seems on sale here. Oysters, stockings, crockery, chisels, Bibles, song-books, old clothes, opossums, tinware, black swans, and innumerable other things are

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all near at hand; fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables of every sort are cheap and plentiful.

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Cheap Jack" shouts his bargains, and Punch and Judy and Dog Toby attract their crowd

A red-faced Around him.

The mutton

as in the old country. Mutton is a very abundant article. "I was attracted by a loud voice," says an eye-witness, "calling out, 'This way for cheap mutton!' man in butcher's garb was standing on a barrow in the midst of the crowd. were piled a number of half-carcases of sheep, ready dressed for cooking. was sweet, and of fair average quality. The salesman was holding up his half-sheep (cut lengthways through the middle), while he waved the other hand with animated gestures towards his audience. 'Cheap mutton here! come along, now's your time; who'll buy che ap mutton?' A pause ensues; the mutton is lowered for a moment to ease the arm; up it goes once more, and then I hear him sing out, Sold again and got the sugar!' (colonial slang for ready money). Half a sheep for a shilling!' The purchaser was a little girl, who tottered along with her load as if she held a little brother upside down.

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