BAGDAD

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CHAPTER XI.

Buildings in the time of Haroun Alraschid-A House -Mosque-Disregard of the Turks for AntiquitiesPreparations for departure-Advice to Travellers— Roguery of the British Agent-Mr. Wolff, a Missionary-Extortion of the Servants of Aga SaikeisWe leave Bagdad-Gold-stick bearer-Benee-SadRuined state of the Town-Aboo Nasir throwing the Jereed-Bacoubah-Devastation of the Army of Mohumud Ali Meerza-Alarm of Robbers-Aboo Nasir's Request-The Silver-stick Bearer and Aboo Nasir take leave.

DURING our stay in Bagdad, we were very anxious to observe any customs in use amongst the modern inhabitants, with which we might associate our recollections of their ancestors, as recorded in the Arabian Nights; but Bagdad is no longer the Court of the Caliphs. The

former capital of the Eastern empire, has dwindled into the seat of government of a remote province. The deputy of the Caliph's successor occupies the seat once filled by commanders of the faithful; and although in the decline of a great city there must be a smaller field for the delineation of character, than in the days of its prosperity, the customs of the present inhabitants have such an affinity to the accounts handed down to us of the days of splendour, as to bear ample testimony to the fidelity of that admirable picture of Oriental life.

In our search for illustrations of the Arabian Nights, we were not unmindful of buildings in the time of the Caliph Haroun Alraschid, the detail of whose midnight pranks has so amused our earlier life. Though there are few remains of this merry monarch, these few, unsatisfactory as they were to our craving curiosity, were visited by us with a grateful respect for his memory, proportionate to the pleasure we had

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derived from the perusal of his exploits. A house situate on the banks of the Tigris was shown to us as having once been the residence of Haroun. There is nothing in its actual appearance to attract notice, though it is remarkable for the judicious situation in which it is built. The far-famed Tigris washes its walls, and from its lattices is a fine view of the surrounding scenery.

Another memento of the Caliph, is a mosque in a dilapidated state, which bears marks of having once been beautiful and elegant; it is nearly the highest building in the city. Captain Hart attempted to make a sketch of it, but was prevented by the importunate curiosity of the Turks, who had gathered round us to discover the objects of our attention.

Here it may not be irrelevant to offer a few remarks on that disposition so observable in Eastern nations to allow the works of antiquity to decay. The people who do not look backward to their ancestors, will never look forward

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IN DOLENCE OF THE TURKS.

to posterity. The Turk, careless and indolent, dozes through his existence, unmindful of the past, regardless of the future. With us, the actions of our forefathers are associated with our own. The motives which stimulate us to present exertion are the recollection of our predecessors, and the hope of benefiting our posterity. The Turk, from the frail hold by which he clings to life, merely regards the moment of present enjoyment. To-morrow he may be dead, or he may be a beggar. To-day, is his existence. He knows that like the mighty Davoud, the slave may become the three-tailed bashaw, but he also knows that the same sum which purchased the head of his predecessor, may be given for his own. He exercises power while he may, in extortion and oppression. Prodigal of the life of others, equally careless of his own, he yields when his turn comes, with the indifference of a predestinarian, and respectfully submits his neck to the bowstring,

whenever "the vicar of the holy prophet" shall doom him to destruction.

April 8.-For some reasons, that we were unable to divine, Aga Saikcis threw every obstacle in the way of our departure. Whenever we made inquiries respecting any opportunity of joining a party proceeding to Kermanshah, our next halting place, he always evaded giving us an answer, till the caravan in question had proceeded on its journey.

Impatient at this protracted delay, and being suspicious that we were again to become the innocent instruments of some deceitful project, we determined to follow the plan we had adopted at Bussorah, of forming our own caravan, and travelling independent of others. For this purpose, we purchased tents; Mr. Hart and Mr. Lamb had a small one a-piece, and Mr. Hamilton and myself a larger one between us. I must digress for one moment to notice the door of Mr. Hart's tent, which was fancifully