Page images
PDF
EPUB

lege of men. I should add, however, before passing from the subject, that all this care proved ineffectual in the end, just as it had done in the case of the pyramids. In nearly every recent excavation clear evidences have been found of previous invasion and robbery. A part of this vandalism was perpetrated ages ago. A part of it was more modern. And at one time, so rapacious had the thieves become that it was apparently found necessary to remove the mummies from their original graves and mobilize them in a single spot for the better prevention of pillage. Out of the tomb of Amenhôtep II, for example, were taken no less than nine royal corpses, including the most august of all, Amenhôtep III, most illustrious of that name. These are now in Cairo. But in a tiny antechamber adjacent to the vault, where the sole remaining Pharaoh lies sleeping, there are still three bodies, presumably members of the monarch's household.

We took our leave of the desolate valley by a mountain path that leads directly over the rocky spur to the plain, thus avoiding the long ride around it and coming in the shortest possible time to the terraced temple of Queen Hatasu. The beasts were led over after us. It was a magnificent walk, made the more enjoyable by the fact that the north wind continued to blow, mitigating what would otherwise have

[ocr errors]

been intolerable heat. The views increased in grandeur as we ascended, until finally we had spread out at our feet the entire bowl of the valley with its twoscore of open tombs scattered all about a perfect paradise for excavators. I suppose no similar area on earth has proved more gloriously rewarding — and the end is not yet. Only yesterday we passed the returning steamer of Mr. Theodore M. Davis, an American, whose endeavors in this field have given us some of our chiefest treasures, and who is still actively at work here. In particular we owe to him. the magnificent array of articles taken from the tomb of Queen Tii's parents, that is to say, the parentsin-law of the greatest Amenhôtep, which are displayed together with the mummies in an upper room of the Cairo museum. Even so, with all the riches that this tomb discovered, it afforded ample evidence of having been plundered ages before by marauders, who were seemingly interrupted in their work and who left their projected booty lying all about. It is far and away the most complete collection of tomb accessories we have seen, including, besides a store of golden ornaments, a nearly perfect chariot, a bed, and some chairs. These are relics one seldom sees. The more ordinary accompaniments of the mummy -such as the scarab and the host of "respondent statuettes" designed to do menial labor for the de

ceased should Osiris require it - are common enough in any well-equipped Egyptian collection.

Our walk over the hills led for a space along the ridge whence one might see both the valley and the plain. The way was enlivened by songs wherein the Professor and I joined our voices to those of the muleteers to their intense delight. We "Illy-Haleyed" and "Soulless Aliced" with the best of them, and incidentally the Professor was inspired to teach the natives to yodel after the Swiss fashion. Nothing like it had ever been heard before on the banks of the Nile- and I doubt that anything like it was ever heard in Switzerland. But it aroused tremendous enthusiasm in the native mind, and if the art becomes prevalent it will unquestionably revolutionize all Nile traffic.

In half an hour or less we came to the point where we could look directly down on Hatasu's temple, three hundred feet or more below us, at the very foot of the cliff. From that altitude it had the look of a toy a glittering white toy in a wilderness of naked yellow rock. Its terraced courts blazed hot in the glare of noonday. The shadow of its diminutive arcades was grateful to behold. And hard-by it, nestling in the sands, lay the rest-house where it was appointed we should lunch.

The afternoon we gave up to the terraced temple.

[graphic][merged small]
« PreviousContinue »