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corsages this month; they were chiefly à | wken put on well, they were becoming, l'enfant, in plain English, like that of a and being of coloured crape, if the tint child's drawn frock, which does not set off that suited the complexion was studied, the shape to advantage; it cannot even they were universally admired. The feaconceal an ill-formed waist, nor add any | thers added to these head-dresses at evengrace to a slender and well-turned contour. || ing parties, were white, and tipped with Ball-dresses were simple, generally of co- the colour of the crape which formed the loured crape, trimmed with gauze puffings, || turban. Blond caps were worn in half caught up, sometimes by a small bouquet, dress, and ornamented with full blown in that unmeaning fashion, on one side. roses, and other large flowers. The CorStriped muslins and ginghams were worn at nettes for morning costume were, as usual, the breakfast-table, but no longer in the of thread lace and tulle. day; they were made like wrapping pe- In Paris, Scotch tartan was still in high lisses. The summer was a long one, the estimation ; particularly in scarfs, which weather mild and delightful, and white were made with a fichu point behind. dresses yet prevailed in demi-parure, and These scarfs, when worn over a high dress, for receiving friendly parties at home. were, in general, the sole out-door cover
The hats and bonnets were still large, || ing, even if the weather was chill. A few but their shape was very becoming : they || pelisses, however, of gros de Naples, of were much shorter at the ears; so that the most bright summer colours, appeared, small faces and delicate features did not || and were trimmed in a most tasteful and appear buried in those enormous slouches novel manner: they fastened imperceptibly which prevailed during the spring and a down the front, so that, being often great part of the summer. The hats for flounced round the border, they had the the public walks were often transparent, appearance of a high dress. The newest and formed of crape and stiffened net. mode of trimming them, however, was by Bonnets of white gros de Naples were a very rich festoon en rúche, which was also seen in the same style of dress, and in carried down each side in front, and went carriages; when they were profusely orna- all round the pelisse: next the shoe was a mented with flowers. Bonnets of a close full rouleau, concealing the hem, of crape, description were worn in the retired, and the colour of the pelisse; which gave so morning walk, and these, if white, had || much of dress to this envelope, as rengenerally a falling trimming of blond at the dered it fit only for carriage costume. Silk edge : if of Leghorn, they were too large and satin spencers partially displayed themto render this appendage requisite, or, selves; but though the fashion-mongers indeed, convenient.
of Paris endeavoured again to introduce The general mode of dressing the hair this smart and convenient part of dress was in full clustered curls; though some for walking, they almost despaired of its ladies, and those of distinction, preferred | ever holding the place of favour it once the arranging of their tresses à la Ma- | possessed. The spencers that did appear donna. Young ladies, this month, were were well made, and formed a very atseldom seen with any other ornament than || tractive costume over an India muslin their own lovely tresses, the gift of all- || dress, with broad flounces finished by exbountiful Nature; and these were arranged quisite embroidery. in the most elegant and diversified manner. The chip hats, which have been in high If, how er, on a ball-dress, flowers com- estimation during the whole summer ainong posed a part of the trimmings, then a few | the Gallic belles, were ornamented with of the same kind were scattered sparingly | flowers or feathers of two different colours. on the head, and always mingled with the The Leghorn hats were chiefly trimmed little blue flower "Forget me not;" which with Scotch tartan ribbons, very rich in is peculiarly becoming to auburn or light their kind, and bearing an enormous price. hair. Turbans were again highly in favour || The manner of employing these ribbons in with matronly belles, and surely there is no the ornamenting of Leghorn hats, was in head-dress so suitable or becoming to them. large bows, of which there were so many They were large, rather too much so; but that they completely covered the crown,
and a very great part of the brim. When | pins, flowers, and pearls: the heads of
Ball dresses were of light-coloured crape, medium between winter and summer, was or of flock gauze. They were elegantly invented. Of this we have given an enmade, and much labour was bestowed on | graving in our records of fashion for Octheir trimming, which rendered them more tober. A robe of celestial blue taffety, fit for dancing parties in town, than for the without sleeves, was in the Circassian fête champêtre, where simplicity of dress style, and discovered a muslin dress beis generally more conspicuous. Dresses of neath, plaited en chemisette ; finished at white crape, ornamented with six rows of the throat by a quilling of thread tulle : satin, were worn at evening parties, where the sleeves of white muslin, confined full dress was requisite. White dresses, || by gold bracelets studded with valuable worked in coloured embroidery, prevailed gems. The muslin skirt of this dress was much: some were finished in this manner about a hand's breath longer than the cowith festoons of branches, all in one co- loured robe. The head-dress was an Ori. lour: the festoons were double, and inental turban of crape or sarcenet, the cofour rows; they were separated from each | lour of the outward dress: it had no other, about a hand's breadth, and in this ornament, and discovered but little of the space were worked detached bouquets of hair. The turban was fastened by a narflowers. Three very narrow Hounces, row frill of plaited tulle under the chin. close together, were placed next the shoe : The weather, as we observed above, was these were of plain muslin, but were caught || nevertheless so mild, ihat even our waterup in different places with cordon, the ing places were not entirely thioned. A colour of the embroidered festoons. new marine dress appeared; but it was of
The head-dress for grand parure, was striped gros de Naples, and well lined. The either a Mexican tiara of white marabout body was made close to the shape, and, on feathers, or three or four white feathers some days which were particularly warm, placed on one side of the head, very | ladies were seen on the sea beach with short, and generally of the light marabout | white muslin sleeves to these dresses, and kind. Young ladies, on the same splendida pelerine of muslin. All this, however, is occasions, adorned their hair with Glauvina || very wrong in a climate like ours; fogs Supplement to Vol. IV.
and chill easterly winds come on, before bon. Winter silks, among ladies advanced we are aware, and nip the fair flower of in life, but who yet mingle in stylish parties, youth and beauty before its time. We made their appearance : the colours were cannot refrain from calling this an indiscreet not dark, but cheering, and looking well by dress. We speak our minds, because we candle-light; such as ruby, or bright geraare the fervent admirers of the fairer part | nium, with rich stripes of a different colour. of the creation, and wish to see them in | Young persons, at evening parties, wore health; for health is the greatest auxiliary || dresses of gauze, trimmed with a broad to beauty; and we, who make fashion our puckering of the same, on which were study, for the sake of the fair, know that placed bows of ribbon: white, if such every season has its proper costume, which were the dress, but if it were of coloured serves to add grace and attraction to that gauze, then the ribbon bows were of the beauty. But on a deceitful morning in
same hue. October, when a lady returns after a sea- In London, the outdoor costume was side walk, with her skin puckered up into determined by the weather. At one time what is vulgarly, yet not unaptly, termed might be seen the smart and elegantly made goose-skin, does she then look beautiful ? || pelisse of gros de Naples, which, though O, no! au contraire. This is digression, re- || its summer hue was cheering, seemed by marks the reader. Granted; for we write its close envelopment of the female form from the impulse of strong feelings of in- | to mark approaching winter: then, on terest in the cause of beauty.
another day, would the bright beams of an The hat then generally worn with this autumnal sun present the “Cynthia of the indiscreet dress was appropriate enough to minute” with only a light barége scarf over the season : it was of white gros de Naples, a high dress, or the muslin pelerine, more or Leghorn, and ornamented with coloured || judiciously chosen, because it is warmer sarcenet, and large double garden pop-| than it appears, over a dress of gros de pies. Muslin dresses were yet worn in Naples.-In open carriages we were happy half dress, and they were richly em- to see, howsoever mild the weather, that broidered. Three full flounces were worked the fair were provided with their warm at the edges, in the most elegant pattern : opera cloaks, to be ready for immediate over the upper one was a row of splendid adoption, should the weather turn chill, or embroidery. The bodies were made par- should the different avocations of visits or tially low, and ornamented round the bust shopping keep them out to a later hour with points à l'antique. The sleeves wide than they had intended. Many of these at the top, but not en gigot ; and coronet useful and elegant cloaks appeared this bracelets of pure gold confined them at the month in all the freshness of new fashion : wrists. The bodies of some gowns were they were not made with mantelet capes, made very full, the fulness confined all but the more useful hood predominated. round the waist by narrow straps across. Leghorn hats prevailed; and had, for White sleeves were usually worn with the promenade, only a simple band of ribcoloured dresses, with pointed mancherons bon round the crown, with strings of the of the same colour as the gown. These same, tying the bonnet close under the chin: sleeves were en gigot, and had antique at the edge of the brim was a rûche of silk points at the wrists with a bracelet of dark || pinked in scalops, the rûche alternately hair fastened by a cameo. A low dress of blue and white. Crape bonnets of lemontulle over white satin was seen at a dress colour were worn in carriages, trimmed dinner party, superbly ornamented round with pink and purple shaded ribbon ; with the border with rûches and embroidery: || very full and large pink flowers of the the corsage was of white satin made quite Turk’s-cap kind: the shape of these bonplain, and fitting close to the shape : the nets was peculiarly becoming, and the size sleeves were long and lined throughout with || moderate. The ribbons forming the strings satin. On the outside of the arm, the || were left untied. Bonnets of gros de Nawhole length of the sleeve, was let in a | ples were not made separate from the very broad lace, of the finest texture and lining, but were doubled over the shape, most beautiful pattern, which was set off the lining and outside being of one piece, by having under it a broad pink satin rib- so that they appeared slightly Auted.
They were ornamented with puffs, of the ) and the canezous, either of muslin or Orsame material, divided by bouquets of single gandy, declined only with the warmth of hollyhock blossoms of various colours. the weather. Open straw hats and bonnets were trimmed Many carriage hats were of Leghorn, with ribbons of two different colours. trimmed with white sarcenet, in bows,
The head-dresses for evening parties and ornamented with a bird-of-paradise were not very suitable or becoming to | plume; the strings in a loop, of white females of a certain age, whom we saw sarcenet ribbon. White chip hats, also, adopting such. The hair, next the face, were yet seen in carriages, with broad, was arranged in full, large curls; and on pink, brocaded ribbon ; a plume of marathe summit of these curls was placed abouts ornamenting each side of the crown. wreath of full-blown roses, larger than na- These hats were wide, and appeared more ture, one red, the other white, alternately, so by a bow of ribbon, placed on each till they more than encircled half of the side, at the extremity of the brim. Chip head; at the back of which was a small and Leghorn hats were generally of a fichu of some conspicuous colour, worked round shape. The fronts of the bonnets in gold. Younger ladies placed near the were square, and discovered much of the back of the head a splendid comb of face : at the ears they were so very short, diamond-cut polished steel. Turbans of that a portion of the cheeks was seen. Japanese gauze, satin, and blond, of a The close capotes were of a light-coloured French white, were much in favour at silk, trimmed with bows of Scotch tartan friendly dinner parties; as were dress caps ribbon. White crape hats were much in of blond and tulle, tastefully ornamented favour, trimmed at the edge with three with flowers and pink ribbon. Dress bias folds; two of satin, with one of crape turbans were of coloured gauze, and were between : their ornaments consisted of ornaniented on each side with white mara- feathers and flowers. bout feathers.
White dresses were yet prevalent this Bracelets were never so much worn : 1 month : they were of jaconot muslin; and they were of macao, gold, or plaited hair. the most admired mode of trimming them The ear-pendants were of wrought gold. at the border, was with three rows of musTrinkets of all sorts were too prevalent; | lin bands, in horizontal puffs, edged with three or four bracelets sometimes on each narrow lace: over the upper row of these wrist, and the fingers, if the hand were ornaments was a strait band, finished in ever so ill formed, were loaded with rings. the same manner; the corsage square and
In Paris, this month, another benefit low. White long sleeves were all the rage, was given to the unfortunate Greeks, which even with coloured dresses. Ball dresses drew together a brilliant crowd, arrayed in were simple; generally white, and the the most fashionable and elegant costume. bodies made à la Vierge, with narrow lace
The out-door covering, during the suc- 1 plaited round the tucker part. Transcession of mild days this month, was but parent dresses of gauze, or tulle, were worn slight. A handsome fichu of the barége | over bright colours at evening parties. kind was worn over a white dress : tliis Berêts, still favourite head-dresses, were handkerchief was finished all round by a composed of tulle, puffings of which, minborder of points of some very striking Igled with ribbon, were placed all round, colour, answering to, but not of the same so that they were rendered by this orna. tint as the fichu. A sash of broad, shaded ment much too large to be becoming: ribbon, confined the ends, and hung in they were placed very much on one side. long streamers on one side. Square shawls This head-dress, when unornamented by of white barége, trimmed round with rib- flowers or feathers, was rendered somebon, were also much worn over coloured what novel by being tied under the chin dresses of gros de Naples. Pelisses of with broad ribbon. White toques of blond, green levantine were the most novel of that with silver bandeaux, were worn in full kind of covering, but of these there were dress. The plumes added to these toques but few seen. Cachemire shawls, when were of the most elegant kind. Young the weather was chill, were more prevalent; || persons ornamented their hair with wreaths
of jessamine, or with bows of ribbon. | but high across the bust: this gives a most The small dress caps were formed of blond, disproportionate breadth to the female with long lappets of broad coloured ribbon, chest, while the fine contour of the bust edged round with narrow blond; the rib- was totally concealed; and the appearance bon the same colour as the flowers on the given to a delicate female was that of a cap. The dress hats were of white chip, brawny-chested Hercules. Black dresses, slightly turned up all round; with two as is generally the mode at this season of rows of marabouts placed one above the the year, were much worn both at dinner other; these feathers apparently fastened and evening parties : satin, velvet, and gros by two rosettes of gauze ribbon.
de Naples, were the materials of which At the commencement of November the these sombre garments were made. They pelisses, though close-made, were still of were, however, appropriate to the season, light colours, and chiefly of gros de Naples : 1 and well calculated to set off the innurich braiding or embossments, either in em- merable articles of jewellery which, of broidery or of raised foliage, of delicate late, had been the rage: when dresses workmanship of the same material as the were of velvet, whether black or coloured, dress, ornamented each side of the bust, they had much white satin about the corand of the sides of the skirt, in front. A sage ; which was well judged, as the early pelerine cape, elegantly ornamented round part of the winter season caused such with a full rûche, fell over the shoulders, dresses to look heavy if all black. Gowns and this was surmounted by a double cole- | for full dress had the sleeves made very rette of India muslin trimmed with lace. Il short and full. Mantles were, however, more in favour for Large black velvet bonnets without any out-door costume than pelisses ; they were ornament were, as last winter, deemed chiefly of gros de Naples, but those of le- most elegant for the promenade. Coloured vantine certainly hung best over the form. satin bonnets, especially violet-colour, with The favourite colour for these useful car- || a black blond at the edge of the brim, were riage envelopes was brown or slate-co-much in favour for the carriage. They lour, lined with bright geranium, or with were ornamented with puffings of the same rose-colour. A few pelisses of vermillion- | material as the bonnet, and with detached coloured velvet, trimmed with ermine, were bouquets of flowers, of rich bright colours, seen in carriages towards the latter end of suitable to winter. Black satin bonnets, this month.
also, trimmed in the same manner, were White muslin dresses, though laid aside seen both in carriages and in walking coswith some reluctance, were seldom seen tume. A few white bonnets, for paying except at the breakfast-table; they were morning visits of ceremony, were yet seen profusely ornamented with lace; and pele- || in carriages; but they were fast declining rine capes, adorned with the same expensive to give place to the tasteful hat of the material, were worn with them; the capes same colour as the rich winter pelisse; or temporary, to be adopted or thrown off at the still more admired black velvet, with pleasure. Dresses of gros de Naples, of elegant plumage, either black, white, or some light and beautiful colour, such as variegated. pink or canary-yellow, checquered with Small dress caps of blond, if caps they narrow lines of black, in diamonds, were might be called, formed an elegant headmuch in fashion, especially in demi-parure. dress for those ladies who had fine hair. Evening-dresses were of coloured crêpe- || They consisted of two bias pieces of satin, lisse, trimmed in various modes, One fa- either white or coloured, according to fanvourite ornament was a full puffing of the cy: these joined together made a sort of same material as the dress round the caul, open at the top, through which the border, the puffs confined by bias straps hair appeared in curls, or upheld by a
a of gauze bound with satin. Ball-dresses handsomely ornamented comb. A rich were in the form of Arcadian robes, edged Venetian blond border, of a Vandyke patround with rouleaux of satin and narrow tern, constituted the border; and bows of white blond. The bodies of all evening- striped gauze ribbon, with various hedgedresses were made low at the shoulders, || flowers, and a few palm-leaves, were scat