ASCENT OF MOUNT GERIZIM.

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the shade of some olive-trees near by. Our presence soon attracted a number of people to the spot, and among them an intelligent and gentlemanly-looking Mohammedan, dressed in a gay silk robe, red slippers, and a green turban. We soon found that he was an inhabitant of Nablous, and well acquainted with all the localities which we desired to visit. I felt some hesitation at proposing to a personage of so dignified a bearing, and of so much apparent consequence, to act as a guide. He manifested no reluctance, however, and was only careful to stipulate for what he esteemed a liberal bucksheesh, consisting of either five or ten piasters.

In company with Mr. Stukes, I put myself under the conduct of this respectable cicerone, who led us back towards the entrance of the valley, and, after proceeding for a few minutes along the base of Mount Gerizim, we began its ascent near a Mussulman tomb that stands in the mouth of a small ravine, about half way between Nablous and the beautiful fountain which we had passed in approaching the city. We rode for a short distance, but soon found the way too steep for the horses, which we sent back to the olive grove to await our return. Our course was nearly southeast, along the side of Gerizim, whose brow overhung us on the right; while upon our left, considerably below us, was the narrow ravine which indents the mountain from its base quite to the summit. This is an ancient road, excavated in the side of the mountain with much labour, and, in the steeper portions of the ascent, fashioned into a regular flight of broad stone steps. These are somewhat injured by the action of rains and the wear of centuries, and are occasionally encumbered by stones and debris that have fallen or been washed down from the higher rocks, but they still afford a safe and tolerably easy ascent to the traveller.

This, I presume, was the principal approach to the ancient city, whose ruins cover the top of the mountain, and that pursued by the religious processions in their way from the Valley of Shechem to the Samaritan Temple.

The most conspicuous object upon these heights is a Mohammedan tomb, situated near the eastern brow of the mountain, on the edge of an extensive field of ruins. Leaving this to the right, and, for the present, unexplored, we passed on to a second summit, separated from the first by a considerable depression, and distant from it perhaps two or three hundred yards, towards the northeast. This is a high point of the mountain, which pushes out between Wady Sahl and the Valley of Nablous, and the particular elevation overlooks the vicinity of Jacob's Well and Joseph's Tomb. The rounded summit is surmounted by an ancient citadel, now in a very ruinous state, but easily traceable on every side. Portions of the wall, consisting of large square stones, are seen in several places. From others the materials have evidently been removed; but a mound of mortar and smaller stones preserves the continuity of the enclosure, which is a quadrangle sixty-eight steps in length by forty-four wide. South of this area are considerable ruins; and there are appearances upon the north and east sides which indicate the former existence of a second wall in advance of the first, and considerably lower down the declivity.

Adjacent to the enclosure, upon the north, is a ruinous cistern, forty-six paces in length by twenty wide. A portion of its wall, now standing, is seven feet thick by twenty in height. A fig-tree finds root among its ruins, and there is a broken doorway in the northern side.

After spending half an hour or more in and about this

ancient fortress we turned back to the Mohammedan tomb upon the southern summit. This monument occupies a noble and commanding position in the northeastern angle of a vast quadrangle, one hundred and thirty-three paces in length by more than half as great a breadth. It was evidently a fortress, less ancient, probably, than the one already described. It is built of massive stones, hewn and bevelled, and consists of two parts or compartments, the work, perhaps, of different rulers or ages. The walls are three paces in thickness, and large portions of them are still solid and entire, as if untouched by the hand of time. The south, or, rather, southwest compartment of this fortress was strengthened by towers at the four angles, six and a half paces square, and built in the same massive style. There is a similar tower in the middle of the south side, containing several small rooms, and under it a deep pit or well, the approach to which was encumbered by fallen blocks of stone. The other sides of the quadrangle were also fortified by towers, which are in a much more ruinous

state.

The interior of this part of the fortress was occupied by an octagonal edifice, built also of hewn stone, and in a very substantial manner, which I took to be a Christian church. The walls are traceable on five of its sides by regular courses of stone, which still remain in their places. The diameter is twenty-four paces, and the sides, two or three of which I measured, are nine paces each in length. The eastern end is rounded, evidently for the accommodation of the altar and its appurtenances, after the fashion of the old Greek

churches.

The grand entrance to this fortress is on the north side, between two high, strong walls, which are still almost entire. On the same side, and west of the en

trance, are the massive remains of a capacious cistern. East of the fortress, on the very brow of the mountain, here sloping towards the plain, are considerable remains of a pavement, connected, perhaps, with some ancient approach on this side; and there are considerable ruins seventy or eighty paces lower down the steep declivity.

South of the fortress is a large field of ruins, covered with square stones and piles of rubbish, the evident remains of a considerable ancient town. I judged that these remains extended at least one third of a mile from north to south, by a breadth rather less considerable. I saw a number of dry cisterns in walking among these ancient foundations. One spot, a little south of the castle-a bare rock, with remains of a large enclosure around it is esteemed holy ground by the people, I did not learn on what account. North of the grand enclosure, and near its northwest angle, are some Turkish graves. On the same side of the citadel, not far below its northeast angle and the Mohammedan tomb, is the holy place of the Samaritans, where, as we subsequently learned from them, they celebrate their four great yearly festivals.

The summit of Gerizim affords another instance of— what I have often had occasion to remark—the close affinity, or perhaps I should say proximity, of Jewish, Christian, and Mohammedan rites. Here is the spot where the passover is still prepared and eaten—the remains of a splendid church, and a Mussulman cemetery, Santon's Tomb, and place of prayer.

The top of Gerizim affords a commanding view of a considerable region, chiefly occupied with mountains of inferior elevation, but also embracing several fruitful valleys, especially those of Nablous and Wady Sahl, through which we had travelled in our way from Jeru

salem. A great number of villages are seen all along its eastern side, but upon high and apparently precipitous spurs of the mountains, which push out into the valley from the main ridge. This valley had the appearance of being the most populous, as well as the most fruitful, region I had seen in Palestine. Cultivation is carried quite to the top of the mountains, which are adorned with plantations of fruit-trees; while every level spot, and a vast number of small fields, supported by terraces, were sown in wheat. Considerable portions of the table-land on the summit of Gerizim itself, and the higher parts of the ravine, which lies parallel with our ascent up the mountain, exhibit marks of recent tillage, though I saw no crops growing at the time of our visit.

Mount Ebal, of which a good view is obtained from the top of Gerizim, like the latter, spreads out into a table-land, though apparently more broken and rocky, and less susceptible of cultivation. It may be less elevated than Gerizim by one hundred feet or more, still there is considerable resemblance in their general feaWe saw, or imagined we saw, some ruins upon the summit of Ebal, nearly opposite to Nablous, but were unable to make a nearer examination after the fatigue we had already undergone.

tures.

Mount Gerizim derives its chief interest from having been the seat of the Samaritan worship from the time of the Babylonish captivity to the present day. The pagan colonists, who had been transplanted from Mesopotamia to the mountains of Ephraim, were led to the adoption of the Jewish religion; and, after some overtures to obtain a participation in the national worship in Jerusalem, which were rejected with scorn and abhorrence by the pure descendants of Abraham, they erected a temple upon Mount Gerizim, about three