they are, however, in fome interftices, feparated by rivers and lakes, which contain an incredible number of islands, fome of which form delightful habitations, and are believed by the natives to have been the terreftrial paradife: even rofes and other flowers grow wild on their borders in the fummer; though this is but a fhort gleam of temperature, for the climate in general is exceffively fevere. Dusky forefts, and noisome unhealthy moraffes, and barren plains, cover great part of the flat country, fo that nothing can be more uncomfortable than the ftate of the inha bitants.

METALS AND MINERALS.] Silver and gold mines, as well as thofe of iron, copper, and lead, have been difcovered and worked in Lapland to great advantage; beautiful cryftals are found here, as are fome amethysts and topazes; alfo various forts of mineral ftones, furprisingly polifhed by the hand of nature; valuable pearls have likewife been fometimes found in the rivers, but never in the feas.

QUADRUPEDS, BIRDS, FISHES,

AND INSECTS.

We must refer to our accounts of Denmark and Norway for great

part of this article, as the animals are common to all the three counfries. The zibelin, a creature resembling the marten, is a native of Lapland; and its skin, whether black or white, is highly efteemed. The Lapland hares grow white in the winter; and the country produces a large black cat, which attends the natives in hunting. By far the most remarkable, however, of the Lapland animals, is the rein-deer, which nature feems to have provided to recompenfe the Laplanders for the privation of the other comforts of life. This animal, the most useful perhaps of any in the creation, refembles the ftag, only it fomewhat droops the head, and the horns project forward. All who have defcribed this animal have taken notice of the crackling noise that they make when they move their legs, which is attributed to their feparating and afterwards bringing together the divifions of the hoof. The under part is entirely covered with hair, in the fame manner that the claw of the Ptarmigan is with feathery briftles, which is almoft the only bird that can endure the rigour of the climate. The hoof however is not only thus protected; the fame neceffity which obliges the Laplanders to ufe fnow fhoes makes the extraordinary width of the rein-deer's hoof to be equally convenient in paffing over fnow, as it prevents their finking too deep, which they continually would, did the weight of their body rest only on a fmall point. This quadruped hath therefore an inftinct to use a hoof of fuch a form in a still more advantageous manner, by feparating it when the foot is to touch the ground fo as to cover a larger furface of fnow. The inftant however the leg of the animal is raifed, the boof is immediately contracted, and the collifion of the parts occafions the snapping noise. Probably the crackling which they perpetually make may ferve to keep them together when the weather is remarkably dark. In fummer, the rein-deer provide themselves with leaves and grafs, and in the winter they live upon mofs; which they have a wonderful fagacity at finding, and, when found, fcrape away the fnow that covers it with their feet. The fcantinels of their fare is inconceivable, as is the length of the journies which they can perform without any other fupport. They fix the rein-deer to a kind of fledge, fhaped like a fmall boat, in which the traveller, well fecured from cold, is laced down; with the reins, which are faftened to the horns of the animal, in one hand, and a kind of bludgeon in the other, to keep the carriage clear of ice and fnow. The deer, whose harneffing is very fimple, fets out, and continues the jour

is at little or no trouble in directing him. At night they look out for their own provender; and their milk often helps to fupport their master. Their inftinct in choofing their road, and directing their courfe, can only be accounted for by their being well acquainted with the country during the fummer months, when they live in the woods. Their flefh is a well-tafted food, whether frefl or dried; their fhin forms excellent cloathing both for the bed and the body; their milk and cheese are nutritive and pleasant; and their inteftines and tendons fupply their mafters with thread and cordage. When they run about wild in the fields, they may be hot at as other game. But it is said, that if one is killed in a flock, the furvivors will gore and trample him to pieces; therefore fingle ftragglers are generally chofen. With all their excellent qualities, however, the rein-deer have their inconveniences.

It is difficult in fummer to keep them from ftraggling: they are fometimes buried in the fnow; and they frequently grow reftive, to the great danger of the driver and his carriage. Their furprifing speed (for they are faid to run at the rate of 200 miles a day) feems to be owing to their impatience to get rid of their incumbrance. None but a Laplander could bear the uneafy pofture in which he is placed, when he is confined in one of thefe carriages or pulkhas; or would believe, that, by whispering the rein-deer in the ear, they know the place of their desti

nation.

PEOPLE, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.] The language of the Laplanders is of Finnish origin, and comprehends fo many dialects, that it is with difficulty they understand each other. They have neither writ ing nor letters among them, but a number of hieroglyphics, which they make use of in their Rounes, a fort of sticks that they call Pistave, and which ferve them for an almanack. Thefe hieroglyphics are alfo the marks they use inftead of fignatures, even in matters of law. Miffionaries from the Chriftianifed parts of Scandinavia introduced among them the Chriftian religion; but they cannot be faid even yet to be Chriftians, though they have among them fome religious feminaries, inftituted by the king of Denmark. Upon the whole, the majority of the Laplanders practife as grofs fuperftitions and idolatries as are to be found among the most uninftructed pagans; and fo abfurd, that they fcarcely deferve to be mentioned, were it not that the number and oddíties of their fuperftitions have induced the northern traders to believe that they are kilful in magic and divination. For this purpose their magicians make use of what they call a drum, made of the hollowed trunk of a fir, pine, or birch tree, one end of which is covered with a fkin; on this they draw, with kind of red colour, the figures of their own gods, as well as of Jefus Chrift, the apoftles, the fun, moon, stars, birds, and rivers; on thefe they place one or two brafs rings, which, when the drum is beaten with a little hammer, dance over the figures; and, according to their progrefs, the forcerer prognofticates. Thefe frantic operations are generally performed for gain; and the northern fhip-mafiers are fuch dupes to the arts of thefe impoftors, that they often buy from them a magic cord, which contains a number of knots, by opening of which according to the magician's directions, they are told they may obtain what wind they want. This is alfo a very common traffic on the banks of the Red Sea, and is managed with great addrefs on the part of the forcerer, who keeps up the price of his knotted talifman. The Laplanders ftill retain the worship of feveral of the Teutonic gods, and have among them many remains of the Druidical

inftitutions. They believe the tranfmigration of the foul, and have fettivals fet apart for the worship of certain genii, called Jeuhles, who they think inhabit the air and have great power over human actions; but being without form or fubftance, they affign to them neither images nor ftatues.

Agriculture is not much attended to among the Laplanders. They are chiefly divided into Lapland fifhers, and Lapland mountaineers. The former always make their habitations on the brink or in the neighbourhood of fome lake, from which they draw their fubfiftence. The others feek their support upon the mountains and their environs, poffeffing herds of rein-deer more or lefs numerous, which they ufe according to the season, but go generally on foot. They are excellent and very industrious herdsmen, and are rich in comparison of the Lapland fithers. Some of them poffefs fix hundred or a thousand rein-deer, and have often money and plate befides. They mark every rein-deer on the ears, and divide them into claffes; fo that they inftantly perceive whether any one has ftrayed, though they cannot count to fo great a number as that to which their ftock often amounts. Those who poffefs but a fmall ftock give to every individual a proper name. The Lapland fishers, who are also called Laplanders of the Woods, becaufe in fummer they dwell upon the borders of the lakes, and in winter in the forefts, live by fishing and hunting, and choose their fituation by its convenience for either. The greatest part of them, however, have fome rein-deer. They are active and expert in the chafe: and the introduction of fire-arms among them has almost entirely abolished the ufe of the bow and arrow. Befides looking after the rein-deer, the fishery, and the chafe, the men employ themselves in the construction of their canoes, which are fmall, light, and compact. They alfo make fledges, to which they give the form of a canoe, harness for the rein-deer, cups, bowls, and various other utenfils, which are sometimes neatly carved, and fometimes ornamented with bones, brafs, or horn. The employment of the women confifts in making nets for the fifhery, in drying fith and meat, in milking the rein-deer, in making cheese, and tanning hides; but it is understood to be the business of the men to look after the kitchen, in which it is faid the women never interfere.

The Laplanders live in huts in the form of tents. A hut is from about twenty-five to thirty feet in diameter, and not much above fix in height. They cover them, according to the feafon and the means of the poffeffor, fome with briars, bark of birch or of linden,-others with turf, coarse cloth, or felt, or the old fkins of rein-deer. The door is of felt, made like two curtains which open afunder. A little place furrounded with ftones is made in the middle of the hut for the fire, over which a chain is fufpended to hang the kettle upon. They are scarcely able to ftand upright in their huts, but conftantly fit upon their heels round the fire. At night they lie down quite naked; and, to feparate the apartments, place upright fticks at fmall diftances. They cover themselves with their clothes, or lie upon them. In winter they put their naked feet into a fur bag. Their household furniture confifts of iron or copper kettles, wooden cups, bowls, fpoons, and fometimes tin or even filver bafons; to which may be added the implements of fifhing and hunting. That they may not be obliged to carry fuch a number of things with them in their excurfions, they build in the forefts, at certain diftances, little huts, made like pigeon-houses, and placed upon the trunk of a tree, cut off at the height of about fix feet from the root. In thefe elevated huts they keep their goods and provi

fions; and though they are never fhut, yet they are never plundered. The rein-deer fupply the Laplanders with the greatest part of their provifions: the chafe and the fishery supply the reft. Their principal dishes are the flesh of the rein-deer, and puddings which they make of their blood, by putting it, either alone or mixed with wild berries, into the ftomach of the animal from whence it was taken, in which they cook it for food. But the flesh of the bear is confidered by them as their most delicate meat. They eat every kind of fish, even the fea dog; as well as all kinds of wild animals, not excepting birds of prey and carnivorous animals. Their winter provifions confift chiefly of Beth and fish dried in the open air, both of which they eat raw, without any fort of dreffing. Their common drink is water, fometimes mixed with milk; they make alfo broths and fish-foups. Brandy is very scarce with them, but they are extremely fond of it. Whenever they are inclined to eat, the head of the family fpreads a carpet on the ground and the men and women fquat round this mat, which is covered with dishes. Every Laplander always carries about him a knife, a fpoon, and a little cup for drinking. Each has his portion feparately given him, that no perfon may be injured; for they are great eaters. Before and after the meal they make a fhort prayer; and as foon as they have done eating, each gives the other his hand.

In their drefs, the Laplanders ufe no kind of linen. The men wear close breeches, reaching down to their fhoes, which are made of untanned skin, pointed and turned up before; and in winter they put a little hay in them. Their doublet is made to fit their fhape, and open at the breast. Over this they wear a close coat with narrow fleeves, the skirts of which reach down to the knees, and which is fastened round them by a leathern girdle, ornamented with plates of tin or brafs. To this girdle they tie their knives, their inftruments for making fire, their pipes, and the rest of their fmoaking apparatus. Their clothes are made of fur, of leather, or of cloth: the clofe coat of cloth or leather, always bordered with fur, or bindings of cloth of different colours. Their caps are edged with fur, pointed at top, and the four feams adorned with lifts of a different colour from that of the cap. The women wear breeches, fhoes, doublets, and clofe coats, in the fame manner as the men; but their girdle, at which they carry likewife the implements for fmoaking tobacco, is commonly embroidered with brass wire. Their clofe coat has a collar, which comes up fomewhat higher than that of the men. Befides thefe, they wear handkerchiefs, and little aprons, made of painted cloth, rings on their fingers, and ear-rings, to which they fometimes hang chains of filver, which pafs two or three times round the neck. They are often dreffed in caps folded after the manner of turbands. They wear alfo caps fitted to the fhape of the head: and as they are much addicted to finery, they are all ornamented with the embroidery of brass wire, or at least with lift of different colours.

Lapland is but poorly peopled, owing to the general barrenness of its foil. The whole number of its inhabitants may amount to about 60,000. Both men and women are in general contiderably fhorter than more fouthern Europeans. Maupertuis measured a woman who was fuckling her child, whofe height did not excecd four feet two inches and about a half; they make however a much more agreeable appearance than the men, who are often ill-fhaped and ugly, and their heads too large for their bodies. Their women are complailant, chafte, often well made, and extremely nervous; which is alfo obfervable among the men, although more arely. It frequently happens that a Lapland woman will faint away.

or even fall into a fit of frenzy, on a spark of fire flying towards her, an unexpected noise, or the fudden fight of an unexpected object, though in its own nature not in the leaft alarming; in fhort, at the moft trifling things imaginable. During these paroxifms of terror, they deal about blows with the first thing that prefents itfelf; and, on coming to themfelves, are utterly ignorant of all that has paffed.

When a Laplander intends to marry, he, or his friends, court the father of the fair one with brandy; and when, with fome difficulty, he gains admittance to his fair one, he offers her a beaver's tongue, or fome other eatable, which he rejects before company, but accepts in private. Cohabitation often precedes marriage; but every admittance to the fair one is purchased from the father, by her lover, with a bottle of brandy; and this prolongs the courtship fometimes for three years. The prieft of the parish at laft celebrates the nuptials; but the bridegroom is obliged to ferve his father-in-law for four years after. He then carries his wife and her fortune home.

COMMERCE.] Little can be faid of the commerce of the Laplanders. Their exports confift of fish, rein-deer, furs, baskets, and toys; with fome dried pikes, and cheeses made of rein-deer milk. They receive for these rix-dollars, woollen cloths, linen, copper, tin, flour, oil, hides, needles, knives, fpirituous liquors, tobacco, and other neceffaries. Their mines are generally worked by foreigners, and produce no inconfiderable profit. The Laplanders travel in a kind of caravan, with their families, to the Finland and Norway fairs. The reader may make some estimate of the medium of commerce among them, when he is told, that fifty fquirrel-fkins, or one fox-fkin, and a pair of Lapland fhoes, produce one rix-dollar; but no computation can be made of the public revenue, the greateft part of which is allotted for the maintenance of the clergy. With regard to the fecurity of their property, few difputes happen; and their judges have no military to enforce their decrees, the people having a remarkable aversion to war; and never being, fo far as we know, employed in any army.

Containing 220,000 fquare miles, with 14 inhabitants to each.

DIVISIONS.

BOUNDARIES AND THIS country is bounded by the Baltic fea, the Sound, and the Categate, or Scaggerac, on the fouth; by the impaffable mountains of Norway on the weft; by Danish or Norwegian Lapland on the north; and by Mufcovy on the east. It is divided into feven provinces: 1. Sweden Proper. 2. Gothland. 3. Livonia. 4. Ingria. (These two laft provinces belong now, however, to the Ruffians, having been conquered by Peter the Great, and ceded by pofterior treaties.) 5. Finland. 6. Swedish Lapland; and, 7. The Swedish iflands. The Lakes and unimproved parts of Sweden are fo extenfive, that the habitable part is confined to narrow bounds. The following are the dimenfions given us of this kingdom.

H 2