The Sokolniki, or People's Park, is a favourite resort on Sundays and holidays. The concourse of droskies and other vehicles is very great. The Zoological Gardens are thirty acres in extent, admirably laid out, and contain interesting collections of animals. The Hermitage Gardens on summer evenings are well frequented; there are musical and theatrical attractions in addition to the prettily arranged gardens. The gardens of the Kremlin are, however, the favourite walk of the middle classes. There are cool resting-places in the columned. recesses of artificial hills, on the summits of which bands of music play.

Amongst the places generally visited by sojourners in Moscow are several palaces and country seats. Izmailovo is the ancient seat of the Romanoffs. It was here that Peter the Great, when a boy, played at soldiers, and discovered the old boat still preserved at St. Petersburg, and known as the "Grandfather of the Russian Navy." Kolòmenskoé is another imperial seat, claiming to be the birthplace of Peter the Great; here, at any rate, is the oak-tree under which he was taught to read. Opposite Kossino, on the shore of a large lake, stands a church of St. Nicholas. In it is an image of the saint, much reverenced by the crowds of pilgrims who flock hither sometimes to the number of 100,000. Ostankino is the prettiest spot near Moscow, and has been a favourite place of sojourn with several of the Czars. At Tsaritsino there is a partially completed palace, built by Catherine II. She was displeased with the effect, and remarked to the architect that he must surely think that he was building a tomb and not a palace. Whereat the poor man was so chagrined that he hanged himself on a neighbouring tree.

We must pass over many other sites of interest in this district, and conclude our description with some reference to the Troitsa Monastery-the "Canterbury of Russia "-about a two hours' journey from Moscow, by rail to Sergiefskaya. The foundation of the Troitsa Monastery dates from the deliverance of Russia from the hands of the Mongol Tartars, mainly by the influence of the clergy and their fortress-monasteries. It was built by St. Sergius, who nerved the arm of Prince Demetrius at the decisive battle of the Don, in 1388. Upon that terrible field the conflict began with a hand-to-hand fight between a Tartar giant and one of Sergius's monks, with a coat-of-mail over his habit. Monk and Tartar fell dead together. Large grants of land, and wealth in abundance, soon came to Sergius and his monastery, but the saint continued to fetch water and cut wood, and lead a self-denying, laborious life to the last. But his name is as potent in Russia as that of Tell in Switzerland, and now, above the wild forest, rise the towers of his fortress-city-enclosing monastery, university, palace, cathedral, and churches, within the circuit of its lofty walls. Innumerable pilgrims stream hither from all parts of the empire. Monarch after monarch has lavished treasure upon it. At least half of its stately buildings were reared by Ivan the Terrible. Twice its sacred walls were a refuge to Peter the Great, fleeing from the insurgent Streltzi. It was once besieged for sixteen months by 30,000 Poles, who were driven off by the approach of a Russian army. The wicked Empress Catherine used to journey hither from Moscow on foot, with all her Court; but she arranged for very easy stages of five miles a day, and took care that there should always be vessels of Neva-water close at hand for her refreshment. Only the Metropolitan of Moscow is considered worthy to be Archimandrite, or Abbot, of Troitsa. The resident Hegoumenos, or Prior, lives in a style of princely grandeur. "Whence do you derive your

support for all this state?" asked the Emperor Nicholas. The prior answered by pointing to the chest into which the pilgrims were ceaselessly dropping their offerings. Immense sums have been presented to the State by this monastery in times of war or other peril.

St. Sergius, dressed in coarse sackcloth, celebrated the first sacraments with a wooden chalice; but after the good man was buried and canonised-for his right to saintship was proved not only by his holy life, but by visits paid to him in his cell by the Holy Virgin, accompanied by the Apostles Peter and John-wealth increased till the monastery had thirty other religious houses subsidiary to it, and possessed 106,000 male serfs.

The walls are twenty feet thick, and about fifty high, with towers at the angles. They enclose ten churches; in the oldest, the Cathedral of the Trinity, is the shrine of St. Sergius, constructed of nine hundred and thirty-six pounds of pure silver. There are, of course, numerous relics and pictures, frescoes and ornaments, in all these churches. A belfry two hundred and ninety feet in height, and accommodating a bell weighing sixty-five tons, is a conspicuous object. The sacristy is to most travellers the chief object of interest. Amongst its treasures is a twelfth-century copy of the Scriptures, brought from Mount Athos. Near the monastery are some noted catacombs, containing cells inhabited by human beings fulfilling vows of total seclusion from man and from daylight. About three miles off are other catacombs, in which a still more rigorous seclusion is affected, for around each cell is a wall of wood completely shutting out the world from the devotee within.

Probably there was never more complete festivity, certainly there was never more brilliant display, than attended the Coronation of the Czar, Alexander III., on the 27th of May, 1883. In the Cathedral of the Assumption, clad in the gorgeous Imperial mantle of cloth of gold and crimson, surrounded by the beauty, valour, rank, and station of all Russia, and the representative presence of the chief countries of the world, the Emperor placed the crown of gold, enriched with pearls and diamonds of enormous worth, upon his head, and the sceptre in his right hand, and the globe of empire in his left-took his seat upon the throne, monarch of the destinies of ninety millions of his fellow-creatures.

For a fortnight the festivities were continued; banquets, balls, receptions following one another in quick succession. Fêtes innumerable were provided for the people, who thronged the city by tens of thousands, and the illuminations were such as were never seen before; "towers, domes, battlements, river embankments, spires, dwelling-houses, bridges, barracks, and monasteries being thrown into clear and artistic outline by the myriad lamps, gas-jets, Bengal lights, and electric lights, and forming the most magnificent spectacle of festal illumination ever witnessed."

From those festivities the nation issued more united than ever, convinced that the beginning of an era of fruitful labour and future greatness rested in the firm hand of its beloved Czar.

ROME.

The Flaminian Way-Piazza del Popolo-The Pincio-Piazza di Spagna-The Spanish Staircase-House of Keats-Trinità de' Monti-Propaganda Fide-Column of the Immaculate Conception-Bridge and Castle of St. Angelo--St. Peter'sThe Vatican-Corso-The Capitol-Tarpeian Rock-Ara Coli-Mamertine Prison-Forum Romanum-Arch of Titus -The Palatine and Palace of the Caesars-Colosseum-Appian Way-Catacombs-Baths of Caracalla-Basilicas and Churches-Temple of Vesta -Pantheon-St. John Lateran-The Scala Sancta-Santa Croce in Gerusalemme-Santa Maria Maggiore-St. Paul Without the Walls-Other Churches-Palaces and Villas-The Seven Hills-Walls and Gates-Colleges and Academies-Charitable Institutions-Cemeteries-The Ghetto-Population-Modern Aspects of the City.

T does not much matter whether we enter Rome by the Appian or the Flaminian Way or by their modern substitute --the network of railways which carry out the saying that "All roads lead to Rome." For the reminder is not altogether incongruous: the great works of ancient and modern engineering skill have much in common. There is a likeness, if not in their actual appearance, yet always in the mighty spirit of enterprise the command of physical resources-which is alike common to both and unknown to intermediate ages.

In former days the only way by which strangers used to approach Rome from the north was by the Flaminian Way. Let us, therefore, for convenience of description, imagine ourselves as entering the city by the Porta del Popolo, which almost marks the position of the old Flaminian Gate, constructed by the Roman censor C. Flaminius, 220 years before Christ: the gate through which the Roman cohorts. passed to conquer Britain.

As we pass through the gate, which was constructed in 1561, and embellished by Bernini, in honour of the visit of Queen Christina of Sweden, let us look at the inscription above the arch-"To a happy and prosperous entry "-and accept it as a pleasant augury.

The Piazza del Popolo is the finest and largest square in Rome. In the centre is a magnificent obelisk of red Syenite granite, which was brought from Heliopolis after the defeat of Antony, and was set up in the Circus Maximus, by order of Augustus. It is about eighty feet in height, is covered with hieroglyphics, and at the four corners are lionesses spouting out water. Sixtus V. had it placed in its present position in 1589, and he did good service by the act. It was the same Pope-the energetic swineherd and gardener's son of Montalto-who caused the obelisk which had stood in the Circus of Nero to be erected in the square of St. Peter's, and who did so much for Rome, not only in restoring ancient monuments, but in constructing public buildings and streets.

On entering the Piazza from the Flaminian Way, there are a great number of things to observe. To the left of the gate (Porta del Popolo) is the Church of Santa Maria de Popolo; towards the west is a wall, with a bright fountain guarded by Neptune and Tritons, and on the opposite side of the square a similar structure, with Minerva and river gods. On either side of this fountain are approaches by terraces to the Pincian Hill. From the Piazza three important streets run, "like fingers from the palm of the

hand; that on the left is the Via del Babuino, leading to the Piazza di Spagna; that on the right the Via di Ripetta, leading to St. Peter's and the Vatican; and the centre street, guarded by two churches, is the famous Corso, leading to the Capitol and the Forum.

The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is, like many other churches in Italy, plain without, but all glorious within-a perfect museum of sculpture and painting. There are tombs of celebrated cardinals; a picture said to be from the pencil of St. Luke, and supposed to possess the power of working miracles; and other curiosities. But the most interesting thing in the church is the Chigi Chapel, built by Fabio Chigi, better known as Pope Alexander VII. The architecture was planned by Raphael; the design of the extraordinary mosaics on the vaulting of the dome, representing the creation of the heavenly bodies, was sketched by him; the beautiful statue of Jonah was modelled by him. This is the only place in which Raphael appears in the character of an architect and sculptor.

Attached to this church is a monastery, tenanted by monks of the Order of St. Augustine, the residence of Luther during his famous visit to Rome. He entered the city through the Porta del Popolo, and knelt down as soon as he had passed the gate, crying with enthusiasm, "I salute thee, O holy Rome!-Rome, venerable through the blood and the tombs of the martyrs!" and then went straightway to this convent, where he celebrated mass. And after his Roman experiences he went out through the same gate, exclaiming in bitterness," Adieu, O city! where everything is permitted but to be a good man."

The site of the two churches which, as we have said, stand on either side of the entrance to the Corso, is supposed to mark the spot where the body of Sulla was publicly burnt on the funeral pyre amid the lamentations of Rome, and where the magnificent tomb which received his ashes stood.

At the foot of the Collis Hortorum (Hill of Gardens), now called the Pincio, Nero was buried; and in earlier times it was the site of the famous villa of Lucullus, who spent his enormous fortune in the most costly and prodigal entertainments. It was here that he gave his celebrated feast to Cicero and Pompey. Later on it was the scene of the orgies of the infamous Messalina, wife of the Emperor Claudius.

The ascent to the upper platform of the Pincio is by a series of terraced walks, adorned with statuary and two columns with prows of ships, taken from the ancient temple of Venus and Roma. The gardens of the Pincio are not large, but there is not a pleasanter spot in Rome. The grounds are well laid out; the walks are shady, with fine trees; flowers and fountains, statuary, and tropical plants abound, and, in addition, a band plays in the afternoon, and then all Rome turns out. The "ring" is gay with hundreds of carriages, containing the flower of the Roman aristocracy, and hundreds of hired vehicles filled with humbler folk, who delight to take the air here; while the garden. paths and the walks between the palms and pines are filled with loungers and pedestrians. But the great charm of the Pincio is the magnificent view from the projecting terrace. All Rome lies at your feet; and beyond the sea of houses rises the great mass of St. Peter's and the Vatican, nowhere seen to greater advantage than from here. Right and left a hundred places of interest may be made out, and the whole is bounded by a chain of hills. From another point of view the eye rests on the beautiful gardens of the